DreamRider85

I have one that was made from 2002. I didn't start using it until a few years ago and the thing always requires so much maintenance and I'm always bringing it back into the LBS. They always say I need new pads, new brakes, new everything. Maybe a couple minor crashes caused that too. But this all came from just riding on multi use trails. Now I'm starting to ride on dirt trails and mountains. I hear and feel a grinding noise when I press the rear brake. And I used to hear this back in the day. Also, this thing is very slow riding the dirt trails. After all, I need to deflate it down to a 35 so that I can have traction. Are mountain bikes supposed to be super slow? I don't know if it's just ME or the bike. But I'm always finding that this bike requires a lot of maintenance and money, even when I don't ride it a super amount. I feel like it just doesn't have durability.

jimc101

Would be interesting to know the specific model of Hardrock you have, as Specailzed didn't make a Hardrock model in 2002, but several variants under the Hardrock name Specialized Bicycle Components

On the basis you have a hardtail, the 2002 models although entry level should be capable of surviving off road riding and are a good entry level bike to get started with.

For the issues your having, the grinding with the rear brake, this could be debris in the pad, or simply just dirty rims, should be easy to check both, unless worn out.

For the bike being slow, what's it like on other surfaces? the pressure your dropping down to sounds reasonable, but would look at the tires your using, if stock, these won't have been great, and tires have moved on alot in the last 13 years, would look at some folding bead (kevlar) tires, would ask local riders to you what is good for your area.

For the parts needing to be replaced all the time, you may want to find a new LBS for a 2nd opinion, also, wrenching yourself isn't hard, plenty of videos on Youtube, and you can ask on the Mechanics forum if you get stuck, for tools, they pay for themselves, you don;t need much to start with , some hex wrenches, a few screwdrivers, BB tool and crank puller will cover most things on your bike.

Orly

I'm running a 2000 Hardrock Comp A1 and have been pretty pleased with it. Mine had some pretty old/worn stuff that needed upgrading/replacing like seat, pedals, grips, cables and brake pads, (all replaced myself) but it works pretty good now. I've run it on singletrack a few times, lots of pavement use and some hardpack trails. The tires that I got it with suck but I'll change those later. I'm happy with the bike, its seems to be able to take a licking so far. Whoever owned it before me didn't do much heavy work with it. My only complaint is with the fitting or geometry, I can't seem to get rid of hand/palm pains from long rides.

MRT2

A picture is worth 1,000 words. How much money have you put into the bike the last couple of years? $100? $200? More?

Darth Lefty 

It's a solid bike and a good platform for upgrades. The frame is not the best weight or feel but its geometry is normal for the time, it takes standard components and has both disk and canti mounts. Most of the changes I've made (handlebar and stem and saddle, gearing, tires) have been for preference, not problems. I've lost some spokes over the years, and my inner ring wore out, which then ruined the chain due to chain suck; but most other problems I've had with it have been self-inflicted.

Orly

Hey Darth, on the subject of handlebar and stem, what did you change them to? My seat is adjusted properly for pedal fit, I installed some Ergon GP1 grips, and used padded gloves. Though the issue did improve a bit I still get sore aching palms after about 40 minutes of riding. My wife has no issues at all (damn her). I believe I may have too much weight on my hands. I was considering maybe using a riser handle bar or different stem. I have shorter than average legs for my height (5'7" 29 inseam). Any thoughts?

DMC707

My advise is to procure a general maintenance manual like the one i provided a link to below

-- This will also give you an idea of what kind of tools to procure to keep your machine tuned up


Rodale Complete Bicycle Maintenance & Repair Reviews | Mountain Bike Reviews || SINGLETRACKS.COM


That will get a guy going -- after that and in no particular order, i recommend a

Allen wrenches
spoke wrench
combination metric wrenches
big adjustable wrench
crankset puller
bottom bracket tool applicable to your type of BB
chain whip
tire levers
cone wrenches
box to keep it all in


--- there may be a couple things i am missing, but those will cover a lot of the basics on a modern bike with a cartridge style bottom bracket

Darth Lefty 

Shorter stem, higher handlebar. I want it to be a user-friendly goof-around bike and not a go-fast bike, something just as good for wheelies in the cul-de-sac as for trails or commuting. But it wasn't for pain. Try here, maybe Bicycling and Pain

Orly

Yep, I've read through that article and just about every other one I could find on the web. I think experimenting with the stem and handle bars is the only option left. I think with a little more rise I'll be able to alleviate enough weight/pressure from my hands to solve the problem.

Thx

DreamRider85

More like 1000

DreamRider85

I'm very unmechanial when it comes to bikes or vehicles in general. Will studying that book help me, even if I don't know where to start? There's just soooo many parts to a bike, it's crazy.

jimc101

There maybe a lot of parts, but most can be undone with a hex wrench (Allen if you want to buy that particular brand), I stared of with an older version of a Park AWS-12 many years ago, and built from that, a basic tool like this will be a good start (and almost essential even if you send the bike to a shop for major work) with tools though, you get what you pay for.

If you are looking for repair guides, would just start on the Park site, it's free and well done for how too's of fixing bikes ​Repair Help Articles - Park Tool

osco53

I traveled that road and finally ended that trip. I tried padded gloves,, two different levels of padding...
Tried different stems, a bit shorter and more rise, play with this for fun : Stem Comparison Tool | yojimg.net
Got myself properly fitted to the bike, bla ,bla ,bla,,etc,,on and on It went...
Tried different width bars,
And still had numb finger tips, hand pain and fore arm pump, worse as the rides got longer. It was a constant problem.
As you did I thought It was the weight and pressure on my hands, In my case It was not.

All solved with one simple mod. I Ride a Carbon flat bar now and gloves with no padding what so ever...
Seem's the Carbon dampened out the Hi frequency vibrations that the Aluminum bar was giving me.
I'm telling you right here and now the Carbon bar was an Instant complete elimination of ALL my arm and hand pain problems. I knew the problem was 100% solved after only 5 miles of my first ride..

I will never ever ride a bike with Aluminum bars again

As for Bar rise I did benefit from a stem change, Started with a 90mm stem with 6 degree rise, tried two others before
comfortably settling In with a 90mm stem with a 17 degree rise..
This raised my grips about 3/4's of an inch and pulled them back about 1/2 inch...

Before that I tried a 75mm stem with 17 degree rise and I could not climb, the front end kept popping up no matter how low I would get. The bars were just too close to me, small changes make a big difference...

Even after riding this stem for a few months I still had problems,, All was solved the instant the carbon bar went on the bike. It was the exact same length, zero rise and same pull back as my aluminum bar.
I am sure it was solely the Carbon that cured my hand and finger woes.......

FWIW I found that padded gloves made me feel disconnected from the bike In a very bad way causing me to grip tighter and this was more than half of the fore arm pump problem.
And IF your not a weight weenie take a look at Ergon grips, I ride the GX1

Orly

Interesting point you made with the carbon handlebars. It makes perfect sense that they would dampen vibration which I would welcome. I have similar Ergon grips, GP1. Now this just adds to all the possible solutions I need to consider. Hmm, where do I start?

I did get some relief when I tilted the seat back a little bit. Apparently my seat tilt was sliding my weight forward a little but didn't eliminate the issue enough. I don't have finger numbing or forearm pain, just at the palms which is the largest pressure point of my grip. Usually starts after about 30min of riding. Maybe a little neck and shoulder ache when closer to an hour of riding.

I might start with trying an adjustable stem to find if and what amount of rise helps then go from there.


Thx for that info.

fietsbob

nothing stays perfect if you use it. wear and tear happens.

jimc101

This is especially true is mountain biking, if you took a new bike today, and rode it hard would expect it to be either worn out, or have very few original part left after a few years.

Gallo

1000 in repairs is too much for this bike. It sounds like you are hard on equipment. That is not a bad thing just a data point. Time for you to get a better bike and stop putting money into this one. A modern bike with higher component group should put up with more abuse than your current set up. It is a good bike and nothing wrong with it but this a classic example of a casual starter bike meeting and rider that puts the bike through the ringer. Time to move up in class

osco53

"""just at the palms which is the largest pressure point of my grip. Usually starts after about 30min of riding. Maybe a little neck and shoulder ache when closer to an hour of riding."""

Work on your core,, your abs,
get off the saddle more,
check seat fwd/ aft position,, Pedals level, pedal axle under ball of your foot, the forward foot,,measure here, have a friend hang a weighted string over the top of your knee cap down to the top of your foot... That Plumb line should line up right over the pedal axle...
IF you adjust this and get knee pain on top near your knee cap move the seat back in 1/4" Increments.

Seats should most always be level..

Make double sure your not on a too large frame,, Sounds like your abs are weak or the top tube Is too long and stretching you out too far..

Orly

I've been meaning to check the seat position with the plumb line to get it exact. Seat height is good. My needing to stretch too far has definitely crossed my mind. I'm on a 17 frame which should be for me. I took a quick few pedals on my wife's 15 Rockhopper and I felt like I was in a much more upright and comfortable position. Her bike feels too small underneath though.
Not sure if I should start with bringing handle bars back or raise them after I've confirmed seat forward/back position. Trying an adjustable stem might help me determine that with out committing to more expensive parts first. Determining my torso angle when riding might be helpful too.
Or it could all just be a physical thing like u said. We started riding daily about 3 weeks ago.

Thx osco

Gallo

.
Fit is important. Almost the one most important thing after a well functioning bike and really part of that in truth.

I fiddle with it until it feels right. Calculator below will bring you into range It is not an end game but a very good start

Bike Fit Calculator | Find Your Bike Size | Competitive Cyclist

Good luck

Phil_gretz

^ Not credible.