tk1971

Just finished this build using mostly spare parts. I didn't go out of my way for a heavy build, but weight wasn't a concern:







The build:
- On One EVO2 456 14" Raw finish steel frame (measured at 5 lbs 7 oz)
- XT crankset with steel 28t
- BB70 bottom bracket
- Cane Creek 40 headset
- Thomson seatpost collar
- BBG 30t bashguard
- N Gear Jump Stop
- SRAM 9spd 971 chain
- Shimano HG400 12-36t cassette with the 12t / lockring replaced with a 11t
- XT Shadow Plus clutched rear derailleur (RD-M786)
- KS Eten lever actuated dropper seatpost
- Brooks B17 leather saddle in Honey
- Truvative hussefelt 50mm stem
- Truvative riser bar
- ODI lock on grips (Rogue?)
- Random wheels: Mavic Rear with XT hub, Alex 20mm front
- Kenda Nevegal 26x2.35 front & rear
- XT brakes
- Marzocchi 55 R (2009 - converted to open bath, this thing alone is like 6+ lbs)
- Wellgo MG-1 pedals
- Suntour Power Thumb Shifter
- Problem Solvers Travel Agent w/ barrel adjuster to allow the rear derailleur to work with the friction shifter

This should be a fun bike to toss around and crash without worrying about breaking it.

Canker

Weight isn't a huge concerned especially when you already have the parts .


I just bought that last week and well mine is 26.6lbs and doesn't have a dropper but I am really liking the slack hardtail thing. I'm not ready to give up my full squish yet but it is a lot of fun. Given the option I'd take lighter over heavier but I know 33lbs wouldn't really bother me any.

tk1971

That looks great. Heck, one of my titanium builds is about 26 lbs, so you're obviously doing something right.

I figure I can easily lose 5-6 pounds with lighter wheels & fork, but then I'll have an extra fork and wheels again... And I'll end up getting another frame to utilize these parts.

There is no end to this. I need help.

Canker

I came real close to buying an on-one 456 myself since I also have a bunch of 26er parts laying around but a deal popped up on that and I wanted to try the 650b thing out.

lubes17319

I'd love a 33lb HT, especially considering that mine weighs in at 34lbs.

Stratocaster

Funny that I found this thread right off the bat (I'm usually in the road bike section of the forum)...but I was in my garage the other day weighing an older Fuji road bike I have sitting there.
Since my Trek 6000 series mt. bike was sitting right there next to it, I figured I weigh that too.
Man, when I picked up that bike I was shocked how how heavy it felt! It ended up weighing about 37 lbs!

So I got to thinking...I know there's a lot of chat over in the road bike section about bike weight. But what's the standard for a mountain bike? Is it better to have light, or heavy, or doesn't it really matter except for the type of terrain?

BTW...a 33 lb hardtail seems pretty light to me.

DMC707

To answer the thread title , --- No- No i absolutely have no interest in a full Frankenstein 33 lb hardtail


But its not my bike, its yours, so if you like it, rock on --- AM parts have no place on a hardtail for me, -- those tires are almost 2 lbs apiece as well , i know, - i have 'em on my DH bike- plus a Brooks and a dropper post -

Be better to sell the heavy parts and bring the bike back around as a 26 or 27 pounder like it should be

Bikernator

How would you rank the items in terms of percent overweight? e.g. a comparable frame could be reasonably had for similar price and save 20% on weight. tires: 15%, etc.

1) seat post (losing the dropper)
2) tires
3) saddle
4) frame
5) wheels

Honest question to any interested...

And to the guitar man: yeah, weight matters. The more you rely on gravity in your respective riding discipline the less sensitive of a topic it becomes. XC guys like light. As an XC hack, I like light. Old entry level bike: probably around 34 pounds. Current bike: 25.5 pounds. Mid-twenties seems like a good spot for a decent hardtail. Some say it's an overrated point. I don't think so.

FrozenK

I have no interest on a 33lb hardtail with 26 inch wheels. I would start by getting rid of the Brooks, which on a bike like this is out of place. The Brooks will not be too happy to see mud, nor is it going to do well if it is crashed. For a bike like this where you aren't spending that much time seating, the Brooks is a waste.

I'd also get rid of the Nevegals. Because those tires suck if the trail is anything but bone dry. And when the trail is dry, they are still heavy, fragile and roll slow.

As for the question about weight, yes it matters. Lighter is better. From bunny hoping to swinging the bike around corners lighter is better. You do have to balance things out with strength, a lightweight bike won't be fun if it breaks. But people will still go as light as possible even for downhill.

For a hardtail, 20-28lbs is reasonable depending on what you will use it for. For full suspension add a couple pounds. Fat or plus-sized wheels I'd aim for about the same weight as a full suspension bike.

Stratocaster

Thanks for the response. I appreciate it.

DMC707

Hardtail pictured below is 23.5 lbs sans pedals (add another 3/4 lb for those) -- its a steel frame, full triple crank setup with front suspension and a middle of the road Shimano XT parts spec and 32 spoke wheels --

Bike below it weighs a hair over 30 with pedals, 29" wheels and 5.5" of travel (a dropper post would add 1/2 a pound or so - and i plan to procure one) -- but this bike has an aluminum frame and wheels too , as opposed to carbon which would bring the weight down

In both cases, these are complete apples to oranges comparisons, but i am just posting in awe that anybody can get a 26" hardtail up to 33 pounds -- my downhill bike weighs 37 with 8" of front/rear travel -- (that will change soon as i am procuring multi ply tires and heavy tubes though --- so it will go up to 40 or so, )

FrozenK

My Yeti ASR carbon weighs 25lbs even without exotic parts on it. And it is a 29er with 120mm front and 100mm rear travel, with Stan Arch EX rims and a double ring drivetrain. Even if I put a dropper post on it, it should stay under 26lbs.

DMC707

I have been contemplating installing a 150 Fox 36 Fork and a slightly longer shock body on my SB-95 pictured above and outfitting it with burlier brakes to make it a "light enduro" bike of sorts. That would bump it up to a 140/150 bike and with heavy enduro tires might accidentally be 32 lbs - but would hopefully be a bit stiffer in pure downhill situations-- I like riding the 29'er downhill more than my pure downhill bike on a lot of ski-lift trails i have encountered, - the changes should bring a little more stiffness to the front end while still having a bike i can pedal uphill if i have to


So in its place i hope to replace it with an ASR-C or an SB-4.5C, because i will still need a reasonably lightweight trailbike (well -- need has little to do with it, - i will just tell my wife the Yeti's in the garage must be mating as they are multiplying ! )

FrozenK

The ASR is going to be lighter, and won't be as stiff as the SB4.5 The ASR is also $500 cheaper.

I've been really happy with myour ASR, but I haven't ridden the SB4.5 It does seem like the SB4.5 would be very similar to what you already have, at least on paper.

tk1971

The 456's maiden voyage up Brown.



All good.

tk1971

34 lbs single speed... you're a goat.

Darth Lefty 

With premium components? Where did you put it all? My Hardrock was ~35 lb with Acera components, an intact triple system, and a Suntour fork

tk1971

Raleigh Ti is about 25 lbs with drop bars and a Fox F80RL

Motobecane Ti is about 24 lbs with a 130mm Revelation dual air and a Brooks C17

Specialized 90's Rockhopper non-suspension steel frame bike with drop bars at 26 lbs (also with a Brooks B17)

Full squish Giant Reign with Revelation 150mm RCT3 at 27 lbs

I've got an Iron horse hardtail laying about somewhere with low end parts in the 27-29 lbs range

The Marz 55r came off my Reign and ended up on the 456. The Reign used to be 34 lbs with the Marz and Rhyno lite wheels.

Weight is non-issue for me. I'm the kind of guy who would put a 415g C17 on a 15 & change pound Mercx Premium to make it 16+ lbs.

DMC707

That cockpit looks like you're pushing a shopping cart bro --- (could be the angle of the pic ) --- Geez bro, you need to ditch that fork (or not - like i said, its your bike -- if you run it with 40% sag, it might ride ok )

Canker

It is a slack hardtail, it is how they look. I don't think he said how much travel the fork has but the frame is designed to handle up to 150mm forks and that is what it looks like he is running. Mine also has a 150mm fork on it and looks pretty much the same with a few less headset spacers, I assume he is still dialing that in.

tk1971

Yep Canker, I'm still dialing it in. The seatpost went up 1" after this ride, and that is a 150mm fork.

DMC, the frame is a On One 456. As in 4", 5", and 6" fork compatible. And yes, the On One 456 is advertised as an all mountain hardtail.

The picture is a screenshot from GoPro footage, so that's at an extreme wide angle (notice the bend in the horizon). I think I was about 2 - 3 feet away from the bike in this shot.

I left the steerer tall because my back started hurting real bad early this year after a crash. I got myself an inversion table and I'm slowly healing, so the stem will find it's way lower eventually. Incidently, that's also what got me all fixated on saddle comfort as well. Nothing worse than climbing 1+ hrs in pain. I also put spd pedals on because that's what I'm used to.

As for the fork... Not many options out there for a 150mm fork with a 1-1/8" straight steerer tube and a 20mm thru axle.

I'm surprised no one's voiced their negative opinion on me going friction on the shifter and using a modern clutch derailleur.

osco53

I ride a 28ish pound bike,,

My Camelbak ranges from five to ten pounds, depending on how much food and water I carry. I sometimes ride without the pack and I climb the same hills never noticing any difference with or without the pack..

I added 200 grams in back tire weight and 300 In front tire weight. The added traction and float of the larger, (Moved from 2.25 to 2.35"),, and the bigger knobs gave me so much more traction and control.
But took nothing away, I notice no more rolling resistance or no harder acceleration.

If I did I'd just ride harder and faster....

I did take 27,,28 pounds off my bike for free and really noticed that !,,How you ask ?? I ate less and dropped the fat off my belly

I am not and will never be a weight weenie I guess ~

rawly old

I just purchased this 30 pd. '98 Giant Boulder for $35 off CL. Everything works well though I threw on a few
upgrades not seen here. swapped out the stock 28/14 freewhl. for a higher quality 32/12. it's not really engineered for speed, but goes pretty good for this class of bike. I also gave it a better rear wheel. both
dead true.Also a stem,bars,& saddle, all stuff I had already, $35 & leftovers was not a bad price.(& not stolen)
It was pretty filthy with red desert dust, but no rust. And yes, a heavy bike will make you stronger
if you don' collapse first. Wish it was 29" instead of 26", but i have a plan.

tk1971

you even got the manual... that's cool

DMC707

Its your bike -- judging from the extensive list of nice machines in your sig line, you have enough experience to make up your own mind about what you like Life would get pretty boring if we all fell in line lock step with each other and did the same thing, - whether its with bikes or anything else