NotARealCyclist

Without consulting the collective wisdom* of this group I've decided to go wide bar/short stem on my touring/trekking bike (Novara Safari).

Reason for the post: Predictions? Will it work? Did I just turn my bike into an un-rideable death-trap?

Details: Truvativ Hussefelt Stem, 40mm; FSA Gravity Light 777mm Handlebars

It's a 2010 aluminum frame, with a straight-blade Surly fork, which replaced the curved stock fork - which I wrecked on a single-track trail wherein I t-boned a tree with my front wheel - crushing the headset (now a FSA Mallet) and ruining the fork.

I figure I can save $1000 by not buying a new, proper trail bike by taking my current aluminum frame and making it handle more lively by changing the cockpit. (No?)

I can pop the wheel up by about 6" off the ground with my current set up. I'm hoping to be able to do some proper manuals and hopping with the new set up.

I'll post a summary of how it handles - and answer the time-immortal question of "can you turn a long-wheelbase road-oriented touring/trekking bike into a trail bike by updating the fork, headset, tires (29x2.1 knobbies), stem, handlebars and grips?" - once parts arrive and are installed.

*Don't believe everything you read on the internet.

Current setup:

osco53

I know a guy who likes to chase down and spank guys on $5,000 boutique mountain bikes with His home built $750 rigid cross bike, single speed and only one back brake..



So I say go for it !

It ain't the bike, It's the engine ya know

Short stems quicken steering for more precise control, Wider bars lower the rider and add leverage for better control,

Shorter stems also take a little weight off the front. On some bikes this makes it easier to wash out the front end IF the rider does not adjust for it, and can make climbing harder,,again If the rider does not compensate correctly with body position and ride skills..

I asked him why he rides that cross bike as he can afford a $5,000 bike,,
He said, "I am too competitive, I'd get to close to the edge."
He added, "This bike does all I need, It just beats me harder and that reminds me of my mortality."

tk1971

OP. Looking at the picture of your bike. That's a lot of seatpost. That stem is also very long. I realize that it's a touring bike, but wow...

You can definitely give it a shot. I doubt the change you propose will turn the bike into a death trap, but is the bike the right size to begin with? Making a touring bike livelier on trails using a smaller frame is probably the right direction (vs using a larger frame size).

So, you'll ditch the fenders when you squeeze 2.1's on the wheels? Do 2.1's clear at the rear?

Go for it. Report back with pics.

NotARealCyclist

OP is back. - with possible disappointment. This bike might never see a new stem/fork. Took this bike to LBS for tune-up.

They say it needs new chain, new shifter cables, new middle and large front chainrings, new cassette, new bottom bracket. All that, plus tune-up, is $300+ for parts/labor. Also, they are not sure about headset condition, and rear hub needs to be greased - but might (probably not) have a broken axle.

Thinking for that $ I can buy a Bikes Direct single speed MTB from Bike Island, install my new bars/stem, and upgrade any other components from this touring bike (E.g., disc brakes, wheels).

OR buy a new frame/fork from Nashbar and salvage the brakes, shifters, wheels etc. by mounting them on a new frame/fork.

OR just buy a new proper bike from my LBS - I really like the Trek Superfly SS, the Trek Stache 5, the Marin Pine Mountain 1...I'm intrigued by Framed brand fatbikes.

OR have them bring the bike up to speed. My hesitations regarding that option are: I'm fairly certain the headtube isn't as round as it could be, given my previous crash, and the bike is - technically - a bit small for me. And the value of the bike is likely less than the cost of the replacement parts/labor! (?)

Or? What would you do?

NotARealCyclist

With seatpost fully extended I'm still a bit short of where the seat should be. Maybe 1-2cm. I was thinking getting thinner, flatter pedals would help. The bike is a bit small for me.

2.1s clear at the rear, with fenders. It's got 700x48 on right now. I have a couple of sets of 29er tires. A new pair I picked up new for $14 - 830 grams each, and a set I've had for a few years which I put on during the summer when I tend to ride more trail. I think 2.2 would clear at the rear, but both sets of tires I have are 2.1. Front fork has loads of clearance.

tk1971

For $300+, you can buy all the tools and parts to fix it yourself.

But if the bike doesn't fit, why put $$ into it?

Find yourself a used bike that fits your body and your trails. Get yourself some tools. Use the Novara as your "practice" bike for DIY maintenance.

NotARealCyclist

+1.

I had the LBS adjust the derailleurs and leave every thing else the same. I'm going to move forward with my touring bike as my 'new' rigid MTB. My next move - after a new stem and bar on my touring bike, followed by pictures and a ride report - will be converting it to single speed.

However, instead of buying $300 worth of tools I bought a 2015 Diamondback Haanjo on clearance - one that fits me.

NotARealCyclist

Stem and Bar installed.

It's like night and day. Bike is so much quicker in the steering. Went for about 7 miles on singletrack w/ a few rock gardens, some really steep drops and a combination of muddy/sandy/hardpack. Too excited to try out the handling, so I dropped rear PSI to 30, front to 25 and kept my 700x48 slicks on. I'll put my knobbies on later this week.

Feels like a new bike:
- I can lock the rear brake and kick the back tire out in a power slide. Couldn't do that before. Did that a lot on today's ride: Fun.
- Can effortlessly unweight the front wheel for rocks/roots
- Feels like 29 inch wheels can roll over anything - didn't feel like that with trekking bars way out in front of the steerer tube. I've technically had a 29er bike for years: Now I'm sold on the size. So much momentum!
- Rock gardens used to be difficult to traverse. Now: Easy.
- The whole ride felt faster with less effort
- Really comfy bolt-upright ride compared to previous bar set-up
- Totally sluggish on the road - for long road rides would hate these bars
- Climbing switchbacks = much easier w/ faster slow-speed handling and tighter maneuverability

I should have made this change years ago.

Also, since my middle and large chainrings are shot - and even with a derailleur tune-up the chain either grinds or jumps in the middle ring - I've been riding (on my ride today, around town last couple days) in my small ring. I've convinced myself to go 1x9 by simply buying 1x chainring bolts and removing the middle and large ring. Slow speed, but fine for towing the kids or hitting single track.

Bike still kills the climbs: the extra, extra long chain-stays, even with the short stem/wide bars, it seems keep my weight centered on the bike and I always had enough traction - even in the mud on slicks.

I might be crazy to run a 26T up front as my only chainring, but with the 9 speed cassette in the back it feels fine. I'm gambling that dropping the front derailleur won't result in too many dropped chains. When the rear cassette is totally worn I'll put the $ into a single speed set-up. In the meantime I'm going to ride this thing all summer as a 1x9 MTB and errand-runner around town.

I also ordered a new bike - which I consider a rigid mountain bike, for how I ride. It'll be here tomorrow: the Diamondback Haanjo - 2015 model is on sale at Jenson USA.

EDIT: I should add that on my ride today I was chased by a goose which took off from the edge of a lake I was riding by and flew after me (literally flying in the air about 24" off the ground) hissing. And I had to do an emergency brake when I almost rode right over a rabbit which bolted into the middle of the trail as I was riding a flowy section. And a couple of deer scattered when I came around a corner out of the woods into a clearing. And I saw an awesome crane. It was like a MTB wild-life safari.