C_Heath

So, Im still trying dial in my lungs I mean my Scott Spark 740 lol and the lock out is absolutely incredible. From Full float to full lock, it is just great but as a weekend warrior, I cant get a feel for what makes me faster and when. Obviously when climbing one would want to lock it all up so the power will get to the ground easier but my lap time at my 6 mile long home course differ with different settings. Now, I use strava along with about 60 others at this course and we all know what its about right? The strava leaderboard!

Well, for me it is at least. Im 13th all time and would like to always work on improving that but trying to dial this thing in has been more work than I thought. The bike is heavy, 28 pounds. Ill work on that as time and money permits and the factory wheels are like anchors but they are set up tubeless and I run 30 in the rear and 28 front on Rocket Rons.

Kenda small block 8's seem to be the tire of choice there as it is tacky and fast.

My problem is that I feel slower when locked out than half locked when climbing. At half lock mind you, on Scott's, it permits half the travel so I am getting 2 inches rather than the full 4 of no lock. When its all the way unlocked it rides like a dream but handles like a drunk monkey. Very clumsy so to speak. With that said, Its about 75/25 half lock/locked.

I do lock it on uphills but I am not so sure that is the way to go. I did do a lap last night and cut my time by a full minute but I had been dropped at mile 2 of 6 and was trying hard to catch up and I really credit the better time to that.

Can you guys share some settings from your bikes? It does not have to be a Scott, just give me some things to try.

Thanks!

gsa103

That's pretty common. Partial travel will give you better traction on bumpy sections and rough climbs, so you'll be faster. My bike has a Fox RP23 shock which doesn't allow a rigid lock-out, just a stiffer platform.

The only time you really benefit from a fully locked setting is on pavement where there are zero traction issues.

Pauley L

Tire pressure is way too high. Start there.

1242Vintage

I'm running my suspension at the 50 percent level typically. Raced on Saturday and there was a lung busting climb on a dirt road with plenty of loose dirt and rock. Had my 2.2 inch wide tires at 25 pounds and was able to grind up that grade with little rear tire slippage. On a practice lap I tried full lockout but that did not work as well. Rear tire bounced around quite a bit on that climb.

corrado33

Nobody I know locks out their suspension on the trails around here. Fire roads? Sure. Singletrack/doubletrack? No way. The guys I know who ride the really expensive bikes just stiffen their rear suspension one click on the uphills. (Not locked out, their suspensions have fully open, middle, and fully locked configs.) We all leave our front forks unlocked on the uphills. Too many rocks to do it rigid, and your fork doesn't really compress under pedaling anyway. (Going uphill.)

I find that leaving the fork unlocked really helps lifting the front wheel over those nasty really tall roots when you're tired and have been climbing for an hour and a half.

Leebo

I never lock out my suspension, ever. But I don't do strava or race either. Why do you assume you are faster when climbing locked out? Suspension will smooth out those bumps and keep the tires on the ground. Do you have your bike sus dialed in for your weight and riding conditions?

C_Heath

I just feels more efficient locked out when climbing and yes, I have the correct sag at 10mm with me on it and the correct air settings. I have yet to adjust rebound and may not until I get the other things dialed. Thanks

Gallo

I lock out all the way front and rear when out of the saddle sustained mashing

I lock out the front and leave the rear in medium if I am going for time that way when I get out of the saddle for a burst i can weight the front wheel and the rear stays rigid and I get good power transfer. I also get the benefit of traction while sitting

mostly though i leave it in medium for comfort some of my best climbs are one i did not worry about speed

some steep and loose i go all the way soft front and rear

you should play with your shock pressure settings I am not at the recommended settings and the bike feels better put a few pounds in take a few pounds out bring your pump riding

I do not know that your tire pressures are too high or low terrain rider weight and tire all seem to factor in this I would also toy with

one thing i did on my road bike was watch cadence heart rate and speed as i climbed. This helped pick the correct gear. Never done it on my mtb but I suspect you could get results by doing so and add in the three clicks

C_Heath

Def Better NOT locked out. Had it on half lock tonight. Course was soaked but I still could tell a difference.