Kona Cinder Cone 2005 Review
#1
Confused
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 37
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Kona Cinder Cone 2005 Review
Dear all,
I recently came across the Kona Cinder Cone, and wonder if it would be worth to get it at @S$1000?
The colour coincidentally fits my bill (including the seat). However, I am relatively new to the gizmos of the specs available at: https://www.konaworld.com/shopping_ca...0&parentid=182
I wonder if I should change the Hayes hydraulic disc brakes, as apparently, the LBS rep acts like an impatient pro, and never relate when, why and how I should maintain such brakes. Some research prompts me that mechanical brakes require very frequent adjustments (i.e. every few weeks).
Also, should I change the rims (Sun rims) if I occasionally go down flights of stairs with four to five steps? The rims is double wall btw...
Looking for genuine advice on this bike, and whether or not I should upgrade anything upon purchase (as that LBS is really far for me to visit, when it comes to major upgrades in future.
Appreciate your advice, thanks.
PS: What about the crank - should I change to Shimano instead of Trussativ etc...
I recently came across the Kona Cinder Cone, and wonder if it would be worth to get it at @S$1000?
The colour coincidentally fits my bill (including the seat). However, I am relatively new to the gizmos of the specs available at: https://www.konaworld.com/shopping_ca...0&parentid=182
I wonder if I should change the Hayes hydraulic disc brakes, as apparently, the LBS rep acts like an impatient pro, and never relate when, why and how I should maintain such brakes. Some research prompts me that mechanical brakes require very frequent adjustments (i.e. every few weeks).
Also, should I change the rims (Sun rims) if I occasionally go down flights of stairs with four to five steps? The rims is double wall btw...
Looking for genuine advice on this bike, and whether or not I should upgrade anything upon purchase (as that LBS is really far for me to visit, when it comes to major upgrades in future.
Appreciate your advice, thanks.
PS: What about the crank - should I change to Shimano instead of Trussativ etc...
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Montréal, QC, Canada
Posts: 4,510
Bikes: 2005 Kona Blast; 2005 Turner Flux, 2006 Felt F3C
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
The Cinder Cone is very, very well rated over at MTBR.com. Go read the comments (strengths, weaknesses) there while you wait for comments from here.
I have the Blast - one notch below the Cinder Cone - and am very happy with it. I don't feel the need to change anything (other than pedals since mine didn't come with clipless) but then again I don't seem to have the same requirements you do.
You should note that every hardtail Kona within that XC family all share the same frame with the exception of the Kula and Kula Deluxe. So if you think you'll be switching a lot of parts out, maybe you should look into getting a cheaper frame and switch out to your heart's content.
I have the Blast - one notch below the Cinder Cone - and am very happy with it. I don't feel the need to change anything (other than pedals since mine didn't come with clipless) but then again I don't seem to have the same requirements you do.
You should note that every hardtail Kona within that XC family all share the same frame with the exception of the Kula and Kula Deluxe. So if you think you'll be switching a lot of parts out, maybe you should look into getting a cheaper frame and switch out to your heart's content.
#3
Confused
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 37
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by santiago
So if you think you'll be switching a lot of parts out, maybe you should look into getting a cheaper frame and switch out to your heart's content.
thanks for your input, however, I am new to hydraulic brakes and wonder if I should change it to mechanical. Also, unfortunately, the LBS is located at the opposite pole of where I live. Hence, should I get Kona Cinder Cone at the one and only LBD that sells it, I need to ensure that I will do the needful before going back to the shop again.
I am also a motorcycle rider, and have experienced hydraulic brakes. However, I reckon I cannot compare motorcycle brakes to that of the mtb.
I have sat on the Kona CC this weekend, and felt comfortable. Should I change to mechanical brakes, will I need to do frequent adjustments? Is it self-adjust friendly? Last but not least, thanks for the referral to the mtbr.com, however, the review is for 2004 model. Should I get the 2004 or 2005? (I am attracted to the 05 model because of the colour.
Please advice, thank you.
#4
7 inch Weagle
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Townsville NQ Australia
Posts: 185
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
The Cindercone is a great bike, as are all Konas (hey, there's four in my family). If you are after low maintenance why take the hydros off? They will need much less maintenance than mechs. As for the wheels, it is an XC bike, so if you intend to jump stairs then maybe you should look at a DJ bike. If you are smooth and don't go too big you should be ok though.
#5
Mmmm...Hardtails
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: UAE
Posts: 153
Bikes: '01 Specialized Stumpjumper
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I have heard Konas are heavy. Anyone support this or not. Something like the cinder cone or blast. Also have heard there frames are stronger than most that true or they about the same.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Montréal, QC, Canada
Posts: 4,510
Bikes: 2005 Kona Blast; 2005 Turner Flux, 2006 Felt F3C
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by kttan2
thanks for your input, however, I am new to hydraulic brakes and wonder if I should change it to mechanical. Also, unfortunately, the LBS is located at the opposite pole of where I live. Hence, should I get Kona Cinder Cone at the one and only LBD that sells it, I need to ensure that I will do the needful before going back to the shop again.
I am also a motorcycle rider, and have experienced hydraulic brakes. However, I reckon I cannot compare motorcycle brakes to that of the mtb.
I am also a motorcycle rider, and have experienced hydraulic brakes. However, I reckon I cannot compare motorcycle brakes to that of the mtb.
Originally Posted by kttan2
I have sat on the Kona CC this weekend, and felt comfortable. Should I change to mechanical brakes, will I need to do frequent adjustments? Is it self-adjust friendly? Last but not least, thanks for the referral to the mtbr.com, however, the review is for 2004 model. Should I get the 2004 or 2005? (I am attracted to the 05 model because of the colour.
Please advice, thank you.
Please advice, thank you.
Originally Posted by UAEBiker
I have heard Konas are heavy. Anyone support this or not. Something like the cinder cone or blast. Also have heard there frames are stronger than most that true or they about the same.
https://www.konaworld.com/tech/techni..._downloads.htm
Just click on the "Bike Weights" link.
#7
Confused
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 37
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thanks all, and Santiago, I reckon I'll go for the Cinder Cone 2005.
3 final queries:
1. The bike by default comes with the pedal that requires a biking shoe. Should I change the pedal that fits normal shoes, I am worried that the LBS might "as usual" swap with a lower end pedal. If this is the case, under the default, which brand or model type of pedal should I insist? Or should I just buy the shoes for cycling purpose? If so, will the shoe withstand normal walking for my commuting purposes?
2. Do I need a helmet? (I recall my BMX days where I never used one). Should I need one, is Bell / 661 a good brand to look at? What should I look out for?
3. What will be the other gadgets I need to buy, besides the hydro oil and the air pump - which type / brand is better?). Is it crucial to have gloves? I used to cycle without them.
Thanks all once again, I reckon members of this forum are more professional than commercially inclined LBS around my area.
3 final queries:
1. The bike by default comes with the pedal that requires a biking shoe. Should I change the pedal that fits normal shoes, I am worried that the LBS might "as usual" swap with a lower end pedal. If this is the case, under the default, which brand or model type of pedal should I insist? Or should I just buy the shoes for cycling purpose? If so, will the shoe withstand normal walking for my commuting purposes?
2. Do I need a helmet? (I recall my BMX days where I never used one). Should I need one, is Bell / 661 a good brand to look at? What should I look out for?
3. What will be the other gadgets I need to buy, besides the hydro oil and the air pump - which type / brand is better?). Is it crucial to have gloves? I used to cycle without them.
Thanks all once again, I reckon members of this forum are more professional than commercially inclined LBS around my area.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Montréal, QC, Canada
Posts: 4,510
Bikes: 2005 Kona Blast; 2005 Turner Flux, 2006 Felt F3C
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by kttan2
Thanks all, and Santiago, I reckon I'll go for the Cinder Cone 2005.
3 final queries:
1. The bike by default comes with the pedal that requires a biking shoe. Should I change the pedal that fits normal shoes, I am worried that the LBS might "as usual" swap with a lower end pedal. If this is the case, under the default, which brand or model type of pedal should I insist? Or should I just buy the shoes for cycling purpose? If so, will the shoe withstand normal walking for my commuting purposes?
3 final queries:
1. The bike by default comes with the pedal that requires a biking shoe. Should I change the pedal that fits normal shoes, I am worried that the LBS might "as usual" swap with a lower end pedal. If this is the case, under the default, which brand or model type of pedal should I insist? Or should I just buy the shoes for cycling purpose? If so, will the shoe withstand normal walking for my commuting purposes?
Originally Posted by kttan2
2. Do I need a helmet? (I recall my BMX days where I never used one). Should I need one, is Bell / 661 a good brand to look at? What should I look out for?
Originally Posted by kttan2
3. What will be the other gadgets I need to buy, besides the hydro oil and the air pump - which type / brand is better?). Is it crucial to have gloves? I used to cycle without them.
Spare tubes.
Patch kit.
Bike lock if you intend to use it around town and leave is somewhere.
Multi-tool (minimum allen keys)
Blinking LED lights if you intend to ride at night on the street (front and back). These can be removed if you go on a trail.
Gloves can be helpful. I fell a couple of weeks ago and got some scrape marks on my gloves but nothing on my hands.
Do NOT put a kickstand.
#9
Confused
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 37
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by santiago
I would take the bike as is and buy the pedals separately if you really want platforms and swap them out as needed. The clipless pedals you can likely sell on eBay and get more for it then if you traded it in with your LBS. Either buy or ask for a spare set of platforms (look at the ones that come on the Blast, for example). If you did want to try clipless I would look at getting Crank Brothers Eggbeaters SL. I got the Candy SL version of the pedals and love them. In retrospect I should have bought the Eggbeaters instead (no mini platform).
Originally Posted by santiago
Cycling shorts (lycra, baggie, bibs - as long as you have the chamois and you don't wear any underwear).
Spare tubes.
Patch kit.
Bike lock if you intend to use it around town and leave is somewhere.
Multi-tool (minimum allen keys)
Blinking LED lights if you intend to ride at night on the street (front and back). These can be removed if you go on a trail.
Gloves can be helpful. I fell a couple of weeks ago and got some scrape marks on my gloves but nothing on my hands.
Do NOT put a kickstand.
Spare tubes.
Patch kit.
Bike lock if you intend to use it around town and leave is somewhere.
Multi-tool (minimum allen keys)
Blinking LED lights if you intend to ride at night on the street (front and back). These can be removed if you go on a trail.
Gloves can be helpful. I fell a couple of weeks ago and got some scrape marks on my gloves but nothing on my hands.
Do NOT put a kickstand.
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Montréal, QC, Canada
Posts: 4,510
Bikes: 2005 Kona Blast; 2005 Turner Flux, 2006 Felt F3C
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by kttan2
Any brand recommendations for the above? Apologies as I am pretty new to these. Also, for air pump, which is better - hand operated or the leg operated type?
https://stores.ebay.com/www-ecyclings...QQftidZ2QQtZkm
The Topeak brand makes decent stuff. You'll find they make hand pumps (handy to have with you in case you have a blowout) and multi-tools. They also make a floor pump model. It doesn't hurt to have both styles of pumps. I bought a $25 CAD floor style pump from Mountain Equipment Coop that does the job.
For blinking lights, the more LEDs the better but avoid the stuff that uses those tiny watch-style batteries. That will get expensive to replace. I bought my lights from MEC again and don't think I spent more than $20-25 CAD for both the front and the back.
https://www.mec.ca/Products/product_d...=1118767859476
https://www.mec.ca/Products/product_d...=1118767859480
For patch kits and spare tubes get whatever your LBS sells. Actually, you should get those for free with a "by the way, how about including a patch kit, tire levers and two spare tubes." That's how I got mine. All of that combined shouldn't cost more than $10 anyway.
For a lock I got a Kryptonite U with the optional cable. I usually throw that into the trunk of wagon I pull my daughters in when tooling around town. I do not leave it attached to the bike. If you do choose to get a U-style lock make sure it isn't the dreaded "Bic" style.
As for the gloves. I just got a pair that my LBS was selling. Not even sure of the brand. He offered to sell me the orange pair cheaper than the blue/black but I didn't care what colour and I got to save $10.
Also, should I get the Kona Stuff or wait for the 2006 Cinder Cone? Both colours looks alright.
#11
Confused
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 37
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Hi Santiago, thanks for your wonderful and helpful advice. You are very right, I reckon Cinder Cone will still be my best bet. I will be getting the 2005 version, as I read about the 2006 version brakes, it seems that the post-mount caliper is good for dry weather, and not otherwise.
I will take a pic once I get this Cinderella. Thanks matey, for your patience and guidance! Truly appreciate it!
I will take a pic once I get this Cinderella. Thanks matey, for your patience and guidance! Truly appreciate it!
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NW
Posts: 881
Bikes: Trek 4500
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Re: Santiago:
Just wondering, why no kickstand? And what do you do with the bike when you have to get off it but don't want to lay it on the ground?
Just wondering, why no kickstand? And what do you do with the bike when you have to get off it but don't want to lay it on the ground?
#13
I drink your MILKSHAKE
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: St. Petersburg, FL
Posts: 15,061
Bikes: 2003 Specialized Rockhopper FSR Comp, 1999 Specialized Hardrock Comp FS, 1971 Schwinn Varsity
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
Originally Posted by mlh122
Re: Santiago:
Just wondering, why no kickstand? And what do you do with the bike when you have to get off it but don't want to lay it on the ground?
Just wondering, why no kickstand? And what do you do with the bike when you have to get off it but don't want to lay it on the ground?
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Montréal, QC, Canada
Posts: 4,510
Bikes: 2005 Kona Blast; 2005 Turner Flux, 2006 Felt F3C
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by mlh122
Re: Santiago:
Just wondering, why no kickstand? And what do you do with the bike when you have to get off it but don't want to lay it on the ground?
Just wondering, why no kickstand? And what do you do with the bike when you have to get off it but don't want to lay it on the ground?
For home I'm thinking of getting one of these. It's $22 over at PricePoint.com
#15
Confused
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 37
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thanks everyone, just one last question for this thread, what do you guys think of the Shimano Shimano PD-M424 pedals besides Crank Brothers Candy SL version? The Shimano one looks cheap, but wonder if the resin edge will work better on rainy day rides?
https://www.pricepoint.com/detail/133...424-Pedals.htm
https://www.pricepoint.com/detail/133...424-Pedals.htm
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Montréal, QC, Canada
Posts: 4,510
Bikes: 2005 Kona Blast; 2005 Turner Flux, 2006 Felt F3C
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by kttan2
Thanks everyone, just one last question for this thread, what do you guys think of the Shimano Shimano PD-M424 pedals besides Crank Brothers Candy SL version? The Shimano one looks cheap, but wonder if the resin edge will work better on rainy day rides?
https://www.pricepoint.com/detail/133...424-Pedals.htm
https://www.pricepoint.com/detail/133...424-Pedals.htm
The Crank Brothers in particular are rated very well for working under muddy conditions.
I was originally pointed to the Shimano family by someone in my club. I later did the research and opted for the Crank Brothers Candy SL (ebay has the best prices). AFter using it I really enjoy it but think I should have gotten the plain Eggbeaters.
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Montréal, QC, Canada
Posts: 4,510
Bikes: 2005 Kona Blast; 2005 Turner Flux, 2006 Felt F3C
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by kttan2
Thanks matey, will get the Crank Brothers pedal. btw, why would you feel that you should get the plain eggbeaters instead?
I've read the same comment from other Candy owners on this forum.
#19
Confused
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 37
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thanks mate, so I can say, if I use normal track shoes, the eggbeaters will be a better bet?
In fact, I saw the recent post on Kona Stuff pics, and am beginning to like the paint works - matte finishing. Should I........
In fact, I saw the recent post on Kona Stuff pics, and am beginning to like the paint works - matte finishing. Should I........