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  1. #1
    Raised by beavers. Amir R. Pakdel's Avatar
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    The Road biker gets his mountain bike

    I have never been much of a mountain biker, and for a while now I had just been strictly a road biker. I saw a good deal on a used mountain bike so I got it:

    It's a Gary Fisher Chro-Mo True-Temper double butten tube frame. Syncros Hardcore and Shimano Deore DX and XT components. Although they are 3-4 years old.

    I just have to get rid of the protective cloth tape on the frame. I hate it.

    The paint on the crank arms have chipped exposing the metal and rusting has started. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can fix that?

    I payed $450 Canadian ($300 US) for the bike itself, and $50 extra for the complete toolset and the carrier bag.

    Wasn't a bad purchase was it? I'm inexperienced with mtn bike purchases so I'm not sure.

  2. #2
    Senior Member RacerX's Avatar
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    give me a call, I have a bridge I want to sell you real cheap.

  3. #3
    NOT a weight weenie Hunter's Avatar
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    I think the guy you bought it from made about, $250 (u.s) more than it is worth. The DX stuff on there has not been made in at least 8 years. That bike has to be at least that old. It has been a long time since I have seen a oversized threaded headset. Syncros now makes most of their stuff from Aluminum, so if the cranks are cro-mo like the old Cook Bros. were than it IS a old bike.

  4. #4
    Raised by beavers. Amir R. Pakdel's Avatar
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    Originally posted by RacerX
    give me a call, I have a bridge I want to sell you real cheap.
    You should give me a call, my firm is hiring saracastic bit*ches.
    Last edited by Amir R. Pakdel; 07-06-02 at 05:23 PM.

  5. #5
    Raised by beavers. Amir R. Pakdel's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Hunter
    I think the guy you bought it from made about, $250 (u.s) more than it is worth. The DX stuff on there has not been made in at least 8 years. That bike has to be at least that old. It has been a long time since I have seen a oversized threaded headset. Syncros now makes most of their stuff from Aluminum, so if the cranks are cro-mo like the old Cook Bros. were than it IS a old bike.
    Umm, I know nothing about mountain bikes but at least I know that Shimano still makes Deore XT and DX. Check the website:
    http://bike.shimano.com/mtb/index.asp

    The cranks are hallow chro-mo syncros. These werent around until 3-4 years back.

    She did make big profit on the components. She admitted that she used to work for Syncros and got excellent deal on the parts so she did not pay for them as much as retail.

    I posted a thread asking if this was a good 2 weeks before and msot told me it was okay for $400 CND. I checked with my LBS and he said it was good bargain.

    The complete list of specs can be found here:
    http://www.bluemanitou.ca./bike.htm

    My original thread at:
    Risking the purchase of a second hand, your opinion wanted

    I guess it is hard to tell its real value unless you are there. I dunnno so I made a leap of faith. I hope she didn't jip me too much.

    Live and learn I guess.

  6. #6
    NOT a weight weenie Hunter's Avatar
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    Well I did not see this thred. i did not start posting here again two weeks ago. I stick with my original statement. I might also do you some good to actually look at those DX components on the shimaNO web site before you post. Here I will help you. http://bike.shimano.com/mtb/dx/index.asp

  7. #7
    Raised by beavers. Amir R. Pakdel's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Hunter
    Well I did not see this thred. i did not start posting here again two weeks ago. I stick with my original statement. I might also do you some good to actually look at those DX components on the shimaNO web site before you post. Here I will help you. http://bike.shimano.com/mtb/dx/index.asp
    That is DX, not Deore DX. There is only component on the bike that is Deore DX, and there is a Deore XT.

    I know for a fact that Deore DX was available back in 1996.

    I know I get suckered easily by everyone, but I do at least that much research. I think I got a bit jipped too, but not by $250. The reason I know I got jipped is that I'm an unlucky son of a bit*ch that gets suckered and pushed over by everyone.

    I hope someone with more knowledge posts here and tells me what I should have looked out for so I can learn from it.

  8. #8
    NOT a weight weenie Hunter's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Amir R. Pakdel


    That is DX, not Deore DX. There is only component on the bike that is Deore DX, and there is a Deore XT.

    I know for a fact that Deore DX was available back in 1996.

    I know I get suckered easily by everyone, but I do at least that much research. I think I got a bit jipped too, but not by $250. The reason I know I got jipped is that I'm an unlucky son of a bit*ch that gets suckered and pushed over by everyone.

    I hope someone with more knowledge posts here and tells me what I should have looked out for so I can learn from it.
    Deore DX might have been available if someone had it laying around. However I mentioned manufacturing date, not availability. If you will look through this complete manufacturing date chart of shimaNo components you will see that I am right. Categorized by date and product number, it is in German but you should be able to read the parts and year easily. By the way there was both DX and Deore DX moutainbike components a well as DX BMX which is current.

    http://www.fa-technik.adfc.de/Herste...Gruppen80.html

    http://www.fa-technik.adfc.de/Herste...Gruppen90.html

    http://www.fa-technik.adfc.de/Herste...o/Gruppen.html

    http://www.fa-technik.adfc.de/Herste...uppen2000.html

  9. #9
    Senior Member bikerider's Avatar
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    Amir, despite what the others have posted, I don't see a need for you to browbeat yourself. If you are happy with the bike, that's all that matters, seriously! It's true that any posers will not be impressed, so don't kid yourself about the bike having 'pimp' factor.

    The frame is fairly old as it uses the now-defunct 1-1/4" size which was used on the Fisher bikes before Trek bought Fisher out. I believe it is an early '90s Fisher Montare. The bottom bracket may be of the Fisher proprietary design, which is the only fly-in-the-ointment that I can see. Some of the components (brakes, shifters) may also be stock. Of course, age is not as relevant as wear and tear. Incidentally, my brother still rides his Pinarello(!) aluminum MTB with the stock DX components. It has seen a lot of miles (including winter) and the components are still running great after 12 years. Frankly, the stuff being made today does not seem to be as durable as the older stuff, but then that often seems to be the case, doesn't it?

    The Syncros stuff is much newer, of course and the Revolution cranks certainly cost a lot at the time, about $250 US in fact. The other Syncros stuff was very pricey as well and has a fairly high resale value (the cranks are still somewhat sought after - I've seen some new-old-stock ones go for $200 US a few months ago). The Syncros components you have were made in B.C. when the company was still small and the products good.

    As far as the cranks go, I reckon you should sand away any rust and apply some touch-up paint periodically. As I said, the bottom bracket is the only real sticking point (you can get 'reducer' cups for the headset if that ever becomes a problem).

    Now get out and ride!
    Last edited by bikerider; 07-07-02 at 02:14 AM.

  10. #10
    Raised by beavers. Amir R. Pakdel's Avatar
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    You are right bikerider.

    It rides pretty good and I genuienly like,
    but she did lie to me about the age of the bike I believe and I think payed about $100-150 CDN more than I should have, and all the day I have been obsessing over this when I should have looked forward instead.

    It was on a Buy and Sell ad, and her first price was $700. That's what gets naive people like me suckered cause I "talked her into" reducing it to $450. Heh. That's me. The favorite customer of every sales person out there. Ironic that I am a sales person myself, but I'm one that sleeps well at night.

    But they say the best revenge is living your own life well. I will get out there and ride long and hard and make it pay for itself

    What kind of touch-up paint are you talking about here? ANy specific brand you recommend that is durable?
    Also what are "reducer cups for the headset"? I'm not really sure what you are referring by the headset either.


    I spent hours getting it all clean up, here is the AFTER picture:

  11. #11
    NOT a weight weenie Hunter's Avatar
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    The headset is the component that the fork and stem are assembled in. Problem Solver's makes a headset reducer from 1 1/4" to 1 1/8" which is the standard used today. If the heaset goes out finding a 1 1/4" is not as easy as a 1 1/8". Of course if the headset does go out then your fork and stem become wall art.
    Look I am not trying to beat on you or argue just point out some stuff. You said you wanted to obe educated, and you wanted opinion's I gave you mine. I do not see a need for a bunch of needles hostility.
    If you want to learn fine I can help. I am not bashing you on your MTB ignorance, because we all have ignorance on bikes. Cool?
    By the way I still use top mount thumb shifter's as you have on that bike. Your before and after pic's are great nice job on cleaning it up!

  12. #12
    Raised by beavers. Amir R. Pakdel's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Hunter
    The headset is the component that the fork and stem are assembled in. Problem Solver's makes a headset reducer from 1 1/4" to 1 1/8" which is the standard used today. If the heaset goes out finding a 1 1/4" is not as easy as a 1 1/8". Of course if the headset does go out then your fork and stem become wall art.
    Look I am not trying to beat on you or argue just point out some stuff. You said you wanted to obe educated, and you wanted opinion's I gave you mine. I do not see a need for a bunch of needles hostility.
    If you want to learn fine I can help. I am not bashing you on your MTB ignorance, because we all have ignorance on bikes. Cool?
    By the way I still use top mount thumb shifter's as you have on that bike. Your before and after pic's are great nice job on cleaning it up!
    Yes, I think I may have come across a more offending than I should have. Of course, I wanted advice and I appretiate every learning oppurtunity, and sometimes they can be a bit painful. Thanx.

  13. #13
    It's the fight in the man Rich's Avatar
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    Hi Amir

    I think Bikerider might be correct on the diagnosis of the bike being a Montare from either 1990 or 1991.....certainly the Fisher would have been equiped with the Deore DX low profile SLR cantis, and possibly the Deore II overbar shifters.

    The whole Syncros bike candy should keep going for a long time to come, as long as the previous rider didn't do 10 ft drop offs etc, the Syncros tubular steel crankset is the real gem here...maybe try and repaint it black and get Syncros to send you some more stickers in the post.

    You may have been a little shafted on the price, still, you do have a great work horse of a bike, and it looks like you've done a great restoration job on her...nice work fella

    All we need to do now is persuade Joe to start up a retro forums..how about it Joe???

    Rich
    Last edited by Rich; 07-08-02 at 05:59 AM.
    Making New Zealand a safer place :)

  14. #14
    Banned. DnvrFox's Avatar
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    If you like the bike, and it does what you want it to do, what more is there to say?

    This will not be the last bike you will purchase.

    Have fun with it and enjoy it. Keep it long enough and it will become an antique!!

  15. #15
    Member horton's Avatar
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    Im sure you could have got a better bike if u spent a few months shopping around, but if u look at the crap u get new for the price u paid then u didnt get that bad a deal.

    My current bike aint too special but I am enjoying it until I get something better.

    I dont think u got that bad a deal.

  16. #16
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    You're full of S---t Dude.

  17. #17
    huh? JaredMcDonley's Avatar
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    To tell the truth it is not that bad of a bike but to me it sounds like (im going to a small jerk) you just wanted a pat on the back for such a good deal you thought.

    Jared
    Liking what you do is Happiness; Doing what you like is Freedom.

  18. #18
    Raised by beavers. Amir R. Pakdel's Avatar
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    Originally posted by JaredMcDonley
    To tell the truth it is not that bad of a bike but to me it sounds like (im going to a small jerk) you just wanted a pat on the back for such a good deal you thought.

    Jared
    You know what? Maybe that could have been it, or maybe not. I'm not sure. Two bike shops confirmed that it was roughly worth what I paid for it, even though it is retro.

    Thanx for all the compliments on the restoration job everyone. I've been out there and loving the ride.

  19. #19
    Banned. DnvrFox's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Amir R. Pakdel


    You know what? Maybe that could have been it, or maybe not. I'm not sure. Two bike shops confirmed that it was roughly worth what I paid for it, even though it is retro.

    Thanx for all the compliments on the restoration job everyone. I've been out there and loving the ride.
    Amir - no matter at what price you buy something, there is always a "better deal" somewhere else. It is like there is always someone faster or taller or smarter.

    So, you bought a decent bike, perhaps paid a bit too much - so what?

    I bet there are years of enjoyment left in that bike - and it sounds as if you have a great attitude in just getting on the thing and going like crazy. Mostly, have fun, and a mtn bike IS fun.

  20. #20
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    to make yourself feel better, that crank is awesome. I have one, and while an "old" model, it is one of the best cranks out there in my opinion.

    $300us when new.

    I've put mine through more abuse than you can imagine (it's on a trials bike) and except for some missing paint it's as good as new.

    If it's in good shape, that crank could probably be sold for most of what you paid for the entire bike.

    The seatpost is a nice piece too.
    Paul Carpenter
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  21. #21
    suitcase of courage VegasCyclist's Avatar
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    WOW I am seriously surprised by the maturity of the people posting to this thread, I was under the impression that we did not have this name calling rant/troll type people here on the bike forums. but maybe I have been just proven wrong.

    Amir, seriously do not worry about what you paid for it, it is of no matter. I purchased a specialized rock hopper comp frame with some manitou magnum R suspension forks for $200 (over ebay) little did I realize that a person just before me had purchased the same frame and forks for $170. Not to mention these are the same suspension forks which almost got me killed and are right now back with Answer Products awaiting inspection for replacement.

    really it is a nice bike, and for a beginner in the mtb realm I do not see any problem with what you paid. life goes on and you'll be riding so have fun

    as for the paint chips, sand them out with a high grit sandpaper (220 range) then apply some touch up paint (i.e. model car paint) or simple primer which you can get at any hardware store. this will stop the rust from getting much worse.

    anyways have fun riding.
    -VegasCyclist
    "Daddy made whiskey and he made it well.... cost two dollars and it burned like hell...."
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  22. #22
    cycle-powered nathank's Avatar
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    my post from 6/27: Risking the purchase of a second hand, your opinion wanted
    well, i must admit that i'm not familiar with this particular bike or the Syncross parts...

    but i have to ask what year the bike is? it has cro-moly frame, 7-speed drivetrain and canteliever brakes, no suspension fork even though it looks designed as an off-road bike. my guess is that it was maybe near top-of-the-line in about a 1993/1994, which is VERY old in MTB world where first 'real' MTBs were mass-available in about 1987 or so... MTB technology changes rapidly quickly making a $1500 bike into a $400 bike in 2-3 years - you have high wear and high obsolescence in MTB that you don't get with road bikes... Note: i have a 1989 Stumpjumper with all XT that cost originally something like $1400 (bought it used in '92 for $380), but unless someone wanted it for collector reasons it's not worth much more than $100 now... even though it all still works well (i've also replaced almost all original equipment except for frame)

    on 7-speed... 8-speed was been standard in MTBs from 1996 (or earlier) and 9-speed since 2000... while LX and XT are decent, i would hardly call them expensive --- an LX front is something like $40 and an XT rear 7-speed is less than $80 if you can still find 7-speed. my old MTB now commuter is a '97 with 8-speed and i had to replace the drivetrain last fall and had to special-order some of the 8-speed parts. while 7-speed should be just as good, it's obsolete and so isn't worth as much.

    anyway, i think it's probably a good bike and would work great for commuting, but unless i'm missing some major hidden value in some of the syncross parts, the price seems WAY over the top... my guess would be it's worth $200-400 (cdn?350-600?) ... so if she already said no to $400, maybe tell her you like the bike but you just don't think it's worth more and tell her to look for more offers and if she doesn't get any then to call you back (don't know how urgently you want it or she wants to sell it)
    Amir, hey, i pretty much stick behind my post here...

    sure, you could have gotten a better deal, but then you can always get a better deal. i think you paid on the high end for what it's worth, but what's the big deal - maybe $50 or $100 too much.

    it looks like a high-quality bike that shoudl last a long long time even though it's not very new --- my guess was that it was about a 93/94 and from the other posters it sounds like it might be even older than that maybe a 91...

    mountain biking is about 95% about the rider and 5% about the bike - i mean you need something that is durable, shifts and all, but as a beginner having the newest full-suspension is not such a big deal.

    if you end up really getting into mountain biking, then you can buy something better later and this one will last forever as a great commuter or whatever. i think the quality on most of the older components is far better than much of the new stuff (the new stuff is lighter, one of the reasons it's less durable)

    also, i personally belive it's good to learn the skills first on the basic equipment and then move up in equipment b/c if you do it the other way and start with a nice full-suspension you don't have to really learn how to ride... plus, if you outride someone dude on a $2000 full-suspension bike throuigh a technical section: then you're really cool (i have some really good old-school rigid-retro friends)

    enjoy the bike!
    why drive when you can ride?
    now a fully certified German MTB Guide! (DAV)

  23. #23
    Jubalayo Unogwaja! Bokkie's Avatar
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    Another suggestion is maybe contact her, tell her you've since had good advice about the bike and that it's older than you were told. Now that the deal has been done, it's probably too late now anyway to negotiate a partial refund. I'd be a bit miffed about it, but hey-ho, if you genuinely enjoy the bike, then you've got what you wanted anyway so the inflated price is now secondary.

  24. #24
    Raised by beavers. Amir R. Pakdel's Avatar
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    Thanks for the advice everyone. I am no longer concerned about it.

    It has proven to be a great ride, and that's all that matters. although I have some minor issues with the fit. As far as I'm concerned moping over money is really stupid. I'm happier with the bike than I would have been with $450 in my pocket.

    The frame is sturdy enough to last me decades. I'll get a new seat and some mid-range shocks later, plus a rear derailleur as the current one is somewhat worn out.
    Last edited by Amir R. Pakdel; 07-18-02 at 10:52 PM.

  25. #25
    Jubalayo Unogwaja! Bokkie's Avatar
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    Out of the ashes, the Pheonix rises!

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