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  1. #1
    TrekDualSuspension Freak!
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    Thinking of switching from rim brakes to Disc.

    This weekend my father decided to buy a mountain bike to ride with me on the weekends. He ended up purchasing a 2005 ironhorse maverick disc series. Not bad for a guy who is as cheap as my father. He almost bought a wal mart bike. It took a lot of convincing but he did it. He also bought a helmet, gloves and a computer. So anyways, his bike has disk brakes and man, i liked them a lot. They seem to be on the cheap side but they work a lot better than my rim brakes on my bike. I own a 2005 trek y26 and took a look and saw that my bike has the mounts to put disk brakes. What do you guys think? Will i have to do a lot of work to put the disks on? How much money am i looking at? I was pretty happy with the tektro brakes my father had.
    2005 TREK Y26 Stock w/ Ario rear shock w/ lockout, Shimano M540 pedals.(The lender)

    2004 Jamis Dakar XLT 1.0 Frame,04 Manitou Black Super Fork 120mm, Shimano LX Crank, bb, Fr der, Rear der, Shifters. Deore hubs w/ Sun Rhyno Lite rims, IRC mythos xc racing tires, IRC tubes, Sette APX Alloy seatpost, Sette venn mountain stem 120mm, Avid mechanical bb7 ball bearing disc brake 160mm, Oury atb grips, Sette XLR handlebar riser, Sette IXA gel chromoly rail saddle. Shimano pd m324 pedals.

  2. #2
    Emondafied cydewaze's Avatar
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    Someone had discs on sale for cheap recently. I'll look for a link. IMO it's not a lot of work (bolt up the calipers, swap the levers, and throw the old brakes and levers in a bag). I just got a mtn bike built up and it's my first set of discs. So far I like them a lot, but they'll take a bit of getting used to since they're hydraulic. Mech discs are fine though, and I'd choose those if I were you.

  3. #3
    NCAA - DUAL CHAMPIONS! a2psyklnut's Avatar
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    It's relatively easy as long as your frame has the disc mounts, which you've confirmed it does, the fork also has them, and you have disc ready hubs.

    Most forks sold within the last 4 years have mounts, so you should be fine there.

    The big thing is the hubs. If they are not disc ready, you'll need to buy some. It usually cheaper to buy a whole new wheelset as opposed to buying new hubs and having them relaced to your existing rims. Check out www.pricepoint.com for good deals on disc wheelsets.

    Also for good deals on disc brakes. I'd spend the little bit extra and buy a set of Avid's instead of the Tektro's your Dad has.
    "Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming, "WOW, What a Ride!" - unknown
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  4. #4
    TrekDualSuspension Freak!
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    yeah, i dont think i wanna change the levers, i have the shifters and brake lever in one, is there no way to use the brake lever that i have with disc brakes? I dont want to spend to much. Raiyn has already convinced me not to spend to much money, I stopped at rear shock and clipless pedals. Disk brakes would be cool but not if i need to change to many parts.
    2005 TREK Y26 Stock w/ Ario rear shock w/ lockout, Shimano M540 pedals.(The lender)

    2004 Jamis Dakar XLT 1.0 Frame,04 Manitou Black Super Fork 120mm, Shimano LX Crank, bb, Fr der, Rear der, Shifters. Deore hubs w/ Sun Rhyno Lite rims, IRC mythos xc racing tires, IRC tubes, Sette APX Alloy seatpost, Sette venn mountain stem 120mm, Avid mechanical bb7 ball bearing disc brake 160mm, Oury atb grips, Sette XLR handlebar riser, Sette IXA gel chromoly rail saddle. Shimano pd m324 pedals.

  5. #5
    Emondafied cydewaze's Avatar
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    Some links:

    Hayes mech discs $45.00 ea

    Same discs at Jenson $39 ea

    (I think they'll work with your old levers too)

    Other people might have better recommendations as to a certain brand/model, but as far as the performance goes, I do prefer discs. Lots of mud and stream crossings where I ride, and the rim brakes are always making an awful racket.

  6. #6
    Emondafied cydewaze's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by a2psyklnut
    The big thing is the hubs. If they are not disc ready, you'll need to buy some. It usually cheaper to buy a whole new wheelset as opposed to buying new hubs and having them relaced to your existing rims. Check out www.pricepoint.com for good deals on disc wheelsets.
    Doh, I forgot all about the hubs.

  7. #7
    TrekDualSuspension Freak!
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    why would the bike bring mounts and not have the hubs ready? What do i need to look at to see if the hubs are ready? Let me know.
    2005 TREK Y26 Stock w/ Ario rear shock w/ lockout, Shimano M540 pedals.(The lender)

    2004 Jamis Dakar XLT 1.0 Frame,04 Manitou Black Super Fork 120mm, Shimano LX Crank, bb, Fr der, Rear der, Shifters. Deore hubs w/ Sun Rhyno Lite rims, IRC mythos xc racing tires, IRC tubes, Sette APX Alloy seatpost, Sette venn mountain stem 120mm, Avid mechanical bb7 ball bearing disc brake 160mm, Oury atb grips, Sette XLR handlebar riser, Sette IXA gel chromoly rail saddle. Shimano pd m324 pedals.

  8. #8
    NCAA - DUAL CHAMPIONS! a2psyklnut's Avatar
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    Look at the non-drive side of the hubs. If they are disc hubs, you will see a 6-bolt pattern on the hub flange. If you don't see 6-bolt holes, chances are they are NOT disc ready.
    "Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming, "WOW, What a Ride!" - unknown
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  9. #9
    TrekDualSuspension Freak!
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    I will check that out, im at work right now and am so damn curious if they are ready or not, is there any way to find out without having to wait till 5 to find out? 2005 trek y26
    2005 TREK Y26 Stock w/ Ario rear shock w/ lockout, Shimano M540 pedals.(The lender)

    2004 Jamis Dakar XLT 1.0 Frame,04 Manitou Black Super Fork 120mm, Shimano LX Crank, bb, Fr der, Rear der, Shifters. Deore hubs w/ Sun Rhyno Lite rims, IRC mythos xc racing tires, IRC tubes, Sette APX Alloy seatpost, Sette venn mountain stem 120mm, Avid mechanical bb7 ball bearing disc brake 160mm, Oury atb grips, Sette XLR handlebar riser, Sette IXA gel chromoly rail saddle. Shimano pd m324 pedals.

  10. #10
    Senior Member
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    If you have combo brake/shifter levers, you can only use them if you get mechanical discs. If you get hydro's you have to get new shifter levers$!
    Go to Cambriabikes.com and look at the Avid BB7's they had them for like $60.
    You will probably need to get new cable wire since the distance to the disc tabs are longer than the distance to the rim brake studs.
    I bought an Avid BB7 for my rear, and it rocks. SUPER POWERFUL, actually maybe to strong with out enough modulation. But i still would rather have to much than not enough power.
    If you dont have the right hubs....i would think about the decision, your looking at dropping a lot of money on a lower end bike, not always a good choice.

  11. #11
    Senior Member 4SEVEN3's Avatar
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    I currently own my first MTB w/ disk brakes. Anything less and your pissin in the wind!

    One thing about upgrades. The thing about brakes is if you do decide to get something nice for your "lower end" bike you can always transfer the parts to your next frame/bike if ya want.

  12. #12
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    I'd rather use a set of Avid SD7s than Tektro discs.

  13. #13
    Senior Member
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    Tektro discs?
    Do those exist?

  14. #14
    I drink your MILKSHAKE Raiyn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cydewaze
    Some links:

    Hayes mech discs $45.00 ea

    Same discs at Jenson $39 ea

    (I think they'll work with your old levers too)

    Other people might have better recommendations as to a certain brand/model, but as far as the performance goes, I do prefer discs. Lots of mud and stream crossings where I ride, and the rim brakes are always making an awful racket.
    Anything less than Avid BB7's aren't worth the cash to buy separately.

  15. #15
    TrekDualSuspension Freak!
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    I wrote to trek and they said:

    "This frame is not disc brake compatible, the fork
    can accept IS disc brakes. "

    I looked at my frame and the same two holes that are found on my fork are also on my frame in the rear.

    The hubs are shimano m40 i believe, i still dont know if the hubs are compatible though.

    If it is to much work and money im not doing, v brakes will be the thing. If everything is compatible i will change.
    2005 TREK Y26 Stock w/ Ario rear shock w/ lockout, Shimano M540 pedals.(The lender)

    2004 Jamis Dakar XLT 1.0 Frame,04 Manitou Black Super Fork 120mm, Shimano LX Crank, bb, Fr der, Rear der, Shifters. Deore hubs w/ Sun Rhyno Lite rims, IRC mythos xc racing tires, IRC tubes, Sette APX Alloy seatpost, Sette venn mountain stem 120mm, Avid mechanical bb7 ball bearing disc brake 160mm, Oury atb grips, Sette XLR handlebar riser, Sette IXA gel chromoly rail saddle. Shimano pd m324 pedals.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by adelii
    I wrote to trek and they said:

    "This frame is not disc brake compatible, the fork
    can accept IS disc brakes. "

    I looked at my frame and the same two holes that are found on my fork are also on my frame in the rear.

    The hubs are shimano m40 i believe, i still dont know if the hubs are compatible though.

    If it is to much work and money im not doing, v brakes will be the thing. If everything is compatible i will change.
    That's OK, the front brake is the MAIN brake (at least when you get good it is). A lot of people run a disc on the front and Vs on the rear. Look at it this way ... your upgrade will cost half as much ;-)

    Like Raiyn said, anything short of Avid Mech's really aren't worth buying separately. I have those Hayes MX-2s. I prefer them to rim brakes, but they leave a lot to be desired. They require constant adjustment via remounting that would be handled easily with the BB7s dual contact pad adjustment.

    You might like Hydro's a lot because they "auto adjust". Avid Juicy 5s and Hayes HFX-9s are both venerable and available at the $100 point. Last year's Juicy 7 is available at multiple locations for $150.

    Personally, a Juicy 7 is scheduled for my front fork. I'm sick of that stupid MX-2 coming out of adjustment.

  17. #17
    DMN
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    Quote Originally Posted by willtsmith_nwi
    That's OK, the front brake is the MAIN brake (at least when you get good it is). A lot of people run a disc on the front and Vs on the rear.
    I run with this set up and its fine. But I've married my disc with a decent LX V-brake.
    The views expressed above are badly thought out and hastley typed. Any spelling or gramatical mistakes, are, their to annoy.

  18. #18
    Senior Member crgowo's Avatar
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    If your hubs look like something like this...
    http://www.jensonusa.com/store/imgWr...ont.jpg&type=3
    Then you dont need new hubs. The left side of the hub in the picture is the rotor mounts.

  19. #19
    TrekDualSuspension Freak!
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    good info, thanks guys! i will take a look tonight, Raiyn what do you think buddy?
    2005 TREK Y26 Stock w/ Ario rear shock w/ lockout, Shimano M540 pedals.(The lender)

    2004 Jamis Dakar XLT 1.0 Frame,04 Manitou Black Super Fork 120mm, Shimano LX Crank, bb, Fr der, Rear der, Shifters. Deore hubs w/ Sun Rhyno Lite rims, IRC mythos xc racing tires, IRC tubes, Sette APX Alloy seatpost, Sette venn mountain stem 120mm, Avid mechanical bb7 ball bearing disc brake 160mm, Oury atb grips, Sette XLR handlebar riser, Sette IXA gel chromoly rail saddle. Shimano pd m324 pedals.

  20. #20
    I drink your MILKSHAKE Raiyn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by adelii
    good info, thanks guys! i will take a look tonight, Raiyn what do you think buddy?
    If they'll work on your wheel I'd say go ahead and get the Avid BB7's from Pricepoint. If not get a decent wheelset that you won't kill prior to getting a better bike.
    Like these
    http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/120...-Lite-Rims.htm
    Yes you can run rim brakes on these as well so the rear won't be an issue

  21. #21
    DEADBEEF khuon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by adelii
    I wrote to trek and they said:

    "This frame is not disc brake compatible, the fork
    can accept IS disc brakes. "

    I looked at my frame and the same two holes that are found on my fork are also on my frame in the rear.

    The hubs are shimano m40 i believe, i still dont know if the hubs are compatible though.

    If it is to much work and money im not doing, v brakes will be the thing. If everything is compatible i will change.
    The mounting holes on the rear swingarm of the Trek Y26 are not for disc brakes. They are rack eyelets. Why Trek decided to stick rack eyelets on a FS swingarm is beyond me but there you have it. Most likely it's because they are manufacturing the swingarm with stock common dropouts that were intended to be used on both hardtails and FS swingarms alike. At anyrate, your rear end is definately not disc-ready. You can buy adapters and such but I wouldn't bother. Just run a disc up front and V-brake in back. Additionally, your hubs are also not disc-ready. You will need new hubs (~$20) and a wheel rebuild (~$40 not including material). It might actually be cheaper to pick up a nice new wheelset for $70 to $80. You would then have both front and rear disc-ready wheels although with your current frame you can really only use discs up front. However, you can always transfer those wheels to a new bike and it's always a good thing to have a spare set of wheels so you don't end up with a whole lot of downtime if you end up trashing a rim or need a wheel rebuild due to damage.

    Assuming you just do a front conversion to mechanical discs (~$100), I estimate the cost of this project will end up costing anywhere between $150 to $175.
    1999 K2 OzM 2001 Aegis Aro Svelte OCP Club Member
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  22. #22
    NCAA - DUAL CHAMPIONS! a2psyklnut's Avatar
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    Trek doesn't weld disc mounts to a lot of their bikes. They have a disc brake mount adapter that bolts to those rack eyelets. Kinda chinsey if you ask me. Just another reason I'm not a big fan of TREK, GARY FISHER, KLEIN products. Just weld the tabs on!
    "Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming, "WOW, What a Ride!" - unknown
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  23. #23
    TrekDualSuspension Freak!
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    Well thats that, I will see what i do, 150 sounds hefty. Ill think about it while i ride a new trail im going to this weekend. Thanks for all the help guys.
    2005 TREK Y26 Stock w/ Ario rear shock w/ lockout, Shimano M540 pedals.(The lender)

    2004 Jamis Dakar XLT 1.0 Frame,04 Manitou Black Super Fork 120mm, Shimano LX Crank, bb, Fr der, Rear der, Shifters. Deore hubs w/ Sun Rhyno Lite rims, IRC mythos xc racing tires, IRC tubes, Sette APX Alloy seatpost, Sette venn mountain stem 120mm, Avid mechanical bb7 ball bearing disc brake 160mm, Oury atb grips, Sette XLR handlebar riser, Sette IXA gel chromoly rail saddle. Shimano pd m324 pedals.

  24. #24
    Emondafied cydewaze's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raiyn
    Anything less than Avid BB7's aren't worth the cash to buy separately.
    Ahh, since you're here and we're on the subject of discs...

    I picked up a set of Hayes hydraulic discs w/ rims and levers for cheap, and the rear seems to be dragging. If you pick up the back end of the bike and spin the back wheel, it stops after like 1/2 turn. Is this a huge deal, or could it be because the hardware was sitting around for a few months in a basement?

  25. #25
    NCAA - DUAL CHAMPIONS! a2psyklnut's Avatar
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    Your disc rotor could be slightly out of true!

    Your caliper might not be centered properly!

    A little bit of drag is pretty common with discs!

    ...etc.

    Hard to tell without touching/feeling your bike!
    "Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming, "WOW, What a Ride!" - unknown
    "Your Bike Sucks" - Sky Yaeger

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