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Old 07-08-05, 03:00 PM   #1
wrinklefree
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What to do with V-brake tabs after disc conversion?

I recently completed a disc brake conversion on my bike, and was wondering if anything can be done about the disc brake tabs left over on the fork and frame. They appear to be threaded inserts, but when I tried removing them with an adjustable wrench, it seemed awfully tight. They didn't seem to thread out, and I didn't want to strip anything so I left them for now.

it's not a big deal, just wondering if anyone had any experience with this.

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Old 07-08-05, 03:02 PM   #2
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I took mine off to save a bit of weight (they just unscrew)
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Old 07-08-05, 03:06 PM   #3
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They do thread out, I had the same problem once. It takes a lot of pressure though. Make sure you have the wrench adjusted really well and have someone hold the fork while you get the wrench, or lock it into a vise(in which case use a towel to not scratch it).
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Old 07-08-05, 03:08 PM   #4
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Thanks guys, does that go for the frame tabs too?
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Old 07-08-05, 03:13 PM   #5
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If they have a part that looks liek a nut(hex shaped) then I'd say they probably could. I didn't convert my bike or anything, I had to switch the tabs on my friends bike from one fork to another.
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Old 07-08-05, 03:20 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrinklefree
Thanks guys, does that go for the frame tabs too?
yes though you might have to work them out a bit as they are sometimes painted in so can be hard to unscrew
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Old 07-08-05, 03:28 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrinklefree
I recently completed a disc brake conversion on my bike, and was wondering if anything can be done about the disc brake tabs left over on the fork and frame. They appear to be threaded inserts, but when I tried removing them with an adjustable wrench, it seemed awfully tight. They didn't seem to thread out, and I didn't want to strip anything so I left them for now.

it's not a big deal, just wondering if anyone had any experience with this.

Never use an adjustable wrench. I didn't take mine out yet, but I might "fill" the hole with black silicone. This way you can simply take it out should you ever go back. Silicone is harmless. Or you can use these:

http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...Boss+Plug.aspx
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Old 07-08-05, 04:06 PM   #8
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If you have one of the marzocchi forks where the lowers and arch are seperate you need to get replacement button head bolts. The Arch and lowers are bonded together and the brake mount bolt helps keep it all together.
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Old 07-09-05, 12:25 AM   #9
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I yanked mine. I ended up using a Vise Grips to "liberate" the frame bosses.
(This is an old pic I did for another thread)

I used cable/hose guides that thread into the resulting holes to route my disc cables front and rear. The Front is a store bought and the rear is something I had to make

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Old 07-09-05, 02:36 AM   #10
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I'm glad I came across those pictures you posted Raiyn. The front one that was store bought, is it a common thing to come across? Do they have a name that I could look up?
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Old 07-09-05, 03:03 AM   #11
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Never use adjustable wrenches for anything. You're better off throwing away an adjsutable wrench than using it on any equipment you care about, unless you really like rounded off bolts, which most people dont.
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Old 07-09-05, 03:11 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mx_599
Never use an adjustable wrench. I didn't take mine out yet, but I might "fill" the hole with black silicone.
Silicone has the unpleasant property of attracting water. Unless you like rust, don't use silicone.
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Old 07-09-05, 09:42 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by notfred
Never use adjustable wrenches for anything. You're better off throwing away an adjsutable wrench than using it on any equipment you care about, unless you really like rounded off bolts, which most people dont.
If used PROPERLY an adjustable wrench can do the trick if you're in a boat with no choices. Unfortunately, the people that find themselves using one are the same ones that aren't mechanically inclined which is why they don't have the correct open ended wrench to start with, which leads to it NOT using it properly. When using a crescent wrench you have to make sure that it's 100% tightened to size and that you're seated all the way into a wrench with contact on 4 sides of the bolt. No, it's not the perfect solution but as I stated, if used CORRECTLY it can work fine without rounding the bolt..
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Old 07-09-05, 10:17 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Expatriate
Silicone has the unpleasant property of attracting water. Unless you like rust, don't use silicone.
I thought silicone was pretty inert? We're talking about the rubbery stuff right?
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Old 07-09-05, 10:48 AM   #15
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I thought silicone was pretty inert? We're talking about the rubbery stuff right?
Yup...I have never had a problem with silicone and hydrophilicity, but I am sure the above poster has a point. It would depend on the actual composition and molecular shape of the sealant. I don't care enough to investigate that!
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Old 07-09-05, 04:21 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by mx_599
Yup...I have never had a problem with silicone and hydrophilicity, but I am sure the above poster has a point. It would depend on the actual composition and molecular shape of the sealant. I don't care enough to investigate that!
While I was in college, I worked at my brother's glass shop. He uses urethane to "Glue" in car windscreens*. Apparently it's illegal to use silicone, as it does indeed attract water and promote rust. The funny thing is, people would bring in their rustbuckets with leaky windscreens that they tried to fix themselves with more silicone. Kind of like pouring petrol on a fire to put it out.

*I'm pretty sure it was some form of black urethane sealant, but I could be wrong, as this was more than 15 years ago.
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Old 07-09-05, 06:57 PM   #17
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I use RTV silicone sealant to fill the waterbottle cage holes on my downtube.

Oh, and the proper size wrench to remove the V brake bosses is 9mm.
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Old 07-09-05, 08:03 PM   #18
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After I converted to discs, I bought plugs to fill the holes left by removing the brake bosses ($.50 each). They're made specifically to thread right into the holes with an allen wrench and come in different sizes. My fork took a different diameter than the ones on the seat stays. Remember to use some anti-sieze in case you ever have to remove them.
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Old 07-09-05, 11:13 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roasted
I'm glad I came across those pictures you posted Raiyn. The front one that was store bought, is it a common thing to come across? Do they have a name that I could look up?
Yes.
http://www.webcyclery.com/product.ph...cat=284&page=1
Quote:
Originally Posted by aj in ma
After I converted to discs, I bought plugs to fill the holes left by removing the brake bosses ($.50 each). They're made specifically to thread right into the holes with an allen wrench and come in different sizes. My fork took a different diameter than the ones on the seat stays. Remember to use some anti-sieze in case you ever have to remove them.
The ones I have are plastic. The odds of them corroding in place are pretty nil
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Old 07-10-05, 12:24 AM   #20
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Hey, i have i question what disc brake conversion did you use, and i was wondering how much it costed.Thinking about buying a new bike, but it only has discs in the front.
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Old 07-10-05, 12:28 AM   #21
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You'll need a disc ready frame, fork, and some wheels with disc hubs. Then all you need is some disc brakes. Simple.
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Old 07-10-05, 12:30 AM   #22
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why would i need a disc brake frame, when i can get a disc brake conversion.
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Old 07-10-05, 12:32 AM   #23
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why would i need a disc brake frame, when i can get a disc brake conversion.
Ok, you're the expert now. So get the conversion.
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Old 07-10-05, 12:34 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrailMaster14
why would i need a disc brake frame, when i can get a disc brake conversion.
http://www.a2zcomponents.com/ada.htm

http://www.discbrakeadapters.com/sho...3de50d2e72#add

http://www.woodmancomponents.com/pro...scosystem.html

http://www.therapycomponents.com/BRAKETHERAPY.htm
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Old 07-10-05, 12:34 AM   #25
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Ok, you're the expert now. So get the conversion.
A regular Lenny Zinn this kid.
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