Curtis_Elwood

Just got my new pedals and not I'm struggling to get the factory ones removed. The bike is a Gary Fisher Marlin (ridden 2 times). I tried to brace my foot against the pedal and at the same time, torque the wrench. It didn't budge. Just put some Breakfree CLP oil on it, so hopefully that will help. I'm working out of my apartment, so I don't have a vice to aid me. Any suggestions? Am I just a wuss?

These things aren't threaded backwards are they? I'm going counter-clockwise (lefty loosy).

mtnbiker66

Oh my, one is a left hand thread.Can you guess which one.

Dirtbike

The Right(Drive Side) pedal is normal threaded (Lefty-Loosey, Righty Tighty). The Left (Non-Drive Side) is Reverse threaded (Lefty-Tighty Righty Loosey).

Curtis_Elwood

Thanks. I'll give it a go again tonight. If I can't get it to go, I may have to harass my bike shop into pulling the stock pedals for me. I used to work there (as a ski tech), so they'll give me crap, but hopefully not too much.

santiago

Maybe something in this DIY I wrote up may help you:
https://www.bikeforums.net/mountain-biking/106635-crank-brother-clipless-pedals-installation-questions.html

Curtis_Elwood

Thanks. That thread rocks. The one problem I was having was getting the wrench positioned at a good angle for leverage. My stock pedals only have two wrench contact points instead of being a hex. It makes getting the pedal and wrench into a a good position for maximum leverage. I'll work on it again tonight, though. Good point about the grease too. I'm doing the baptism by fire thing and taking mine out on the hardest trail in the area tonight. My friends don't want to spend much time on the flats, so hopefully I don't crash.

MichaelW

Put the wrench on the flats of the pedal. Rotate the pedal so the crank faces forward (10:00 position) and the wrench faces to the rear (2:00 position).
Apply brakes.
Tread on wrench.
Gently apply more force.

Dont forget to grease the pedal threads.

F1_Fan

This can be tricky... when I worked at a LBS we had this great pedal wrench with one end's slot at 0° and the other 90° so you could always find a good position. I think Park also makes one with 0°, 90° and 180° openings

You want problems... try removing one of the newer road pedals that only have a hex key at the backside of the crankarm. I'm cranking on a 5" long allen key with my precious carbon fibre downtube a few inches away... I've now got a short piece of copper pipe to slip over the allen wrench so I can undo the pedal in a controlled manner.

santiago

Why don't you just get a set of allen sockets and use a a regular ratchet handle. For the real problem cases you can use a breaker bar.

bruiser2

O degrees and 180? Same thing isn't it? I'm not sure if that smiley face was to show that you were kidding or some other reason.

F1_Fan

0 is opposite from 180. It would have been better to say -90°, 0° and +90°. Thinking in clock terms it's got openings at 9, 12 and 3.

I can't remember where I saw it now... it's not a Park tool (or I just can't find it).

Raiyn

I want to say Hozan. I'm probably wrong on that one