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Old 08-07-02, 07:31 PM
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Lock

Do u guys u locks? Well im trying 2 find one thats cheap and good and would a U-lock be good? They're pretty expensive tho. I prefer key locks
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Old 08-07-02, 11:31 PM
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How much is your bike worth? a cheap lock is just that, cheap. Being a big city boy (First Cleveland and now Seattle) I am paranoid that my bike will be stolen so I do not care for the u locks I bought myself a krypto cable lock so I can wrap it through both tires and the frame it is worth the investment .
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Old 08-07-02, 11:58 PM
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What would your typical lock-up scenario be, Jebus?

A good U-lock is generally regarded as higher in security than a cable lock, but less flexible in what you can lock to and how much of your bike you can lock. I remember one time I lost the keys to my cable lock and ended up cutting through the cable using nothing more than a pair of rocks! One with a sharp edge as an anvil, and one rounded one to hammer with. Necessity is the mother of invention...

My solution is a Kryptonite U-lock plus a Flex-Weave cable. I use the cable to "lasoo" the front wheel by running the cable through its own end loop. Then I run the cable over the seat rails, put the free end of it over the U of the U-lock. Finally, I put the U through the rear wheel and seatstays (when locking to a vertical object) or through the rear wheel and chainstays (when locking to a horizontal object). This fills up the U so no jacks can be inserted.

This isn't "cheap," but it's not like you're investing in something that will wear out.
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Old 08-09-02, 09:35 AM
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Krypto makes a very good cable lock I dont think you can cut through it with a couple of rocks I trust locking my bike anywhere around here with that and they are easier to stow either in my Camelback Lobo or the under the seat pack (bullet packs is what we used to call them)
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Old 08-09-02, 09:53 PM
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When i was at a trail once i used a U lock. They stole both of my tires. I still have that crap frame (it was an old cignal bike). From now on i use a Krypto cable lock (heheh thats where i get my aim name from).

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Old 08-10-02, 04:12 AM
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Before you buy a lock you need to decide.
  • how much security you want/need
  • how much weight you're willing to carry
  • how much space the lock will take up
  • how much convenience you want
  • how much money you're willing to spend

There are tradeoffs. The most secure lock is going to weigh a lot and cost a lot of money.

The Master Lock and Kryptonite websites give a good idea of what is available. Both websites rate the locks in terms of the security they provide, and both companies offer guarantees on their better locks.

Kryptonite's Lock-up tips are good, especially tip #3: Lock in a visible and well-lit area.

How much security you need will depend mainly on where you lock your bike and the value of the bike. For high security, there's Kryptonite's New York Fahgettaboutit.
Six-sided (11mm) hexagonal chain links made of triple heat-treated boron manganese steel. Through-hardened 1/2" (13mm) Kryptonium(TM)Steel shackle
The Fahgettaboutit weighs 8.4 pounds and I'm sure it's pricey. You're probably better off buying a u-lock. (like the New York Model 3000, which only weighs 3.7 pounds)

Cable locks offer moderate security. Even Kryptonite's biggest, best (and shortest) cable (3/4 x 30 inch) has the warning:
WARNING: Cables are deterrents and should be used with a U-lock for greater security.
But let's be realistic. A good cable lock is adequate in many circumstances. How much security do you need/want?
Cables are considerably lighter, less bulky and easier to use than u-locks. And a cable lock won't take up a lot of space on the bike the way a u-lock does. I can wrap a cable lock around the seat post and have room left for water bottles and pumps inside the triangle. I use a 1/2 x 6 foot locking cable most of the time, but I'm careful where I park and lock my bike. (and I don't have any real expensive bikes) A half inch cable requires tools to cut. I'd stay away from the smaller cables, though. A 3/8 or smaller cable is fairly easy to cut.

If you want security and are willing to carry a heavier and more bulky lock (or, perhaps, leave it at your destination), a u-lock is probably the way to go. U-locks are also harder to use and are less versatile in terms of what you can lock them to. And they need to fit the bike. And, by themselves, they won't lock the front wheel, so you need a cable, too.

Master offers 3, 5 and 6 ton u-locks, all with guarantees, and Kryptonite has a considerably wider choice of u-locks than that, with guarantees on the better ones. I'd get one that has a guarantee. The lighter u-locks probably aren't a whole lot more secure than a good cable lock.

Master also has a couple of new products, including street cuffs. I'm not familiar with street cuffs, but they look interesting.

The point of all locks is to slow a potential thief down. The better the lock, the more time and effort required to defeat it. No matter what lock you put on anything, if someone really wants to steal it, has the time, and knows what they're doing, they can steal it. The good news is that a lot of potential thiefs don't know what they're doing. (I used to be a locksmith; that's what I learned )

Cheers

Last edited by JRA; 08-10-02 at 04:21 AM.
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Old 08-12-02, 01:31 AM
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I recently read an article where even maximum security locks are now getting easier to break open. Seems the dedicated thieves are making use of portable (cordless) power tools and a small drill bit and a cutting disc can get through heavy locks very quickly.
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Old 08-12-02, 01:44 AM
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Always position a U-lock so that the keyway is facing down towards the ground. Don't position the lock close to the ground. This makes it more difficult for a thief to attack it.
The Kryptonite lock tips are mostly sound, but this one (#6) caught my eye. Especially the third sentence. It obviously applies to the first, but if you read it in the context immediately after the second, then Kryptonite are advocating we should be doing all we can to help the thief!
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