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  1. #1
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    RockShox Judy TT

    Hey anybody have any expierience with this fork. is it a good freeride fork for 5-6 foot drops?

    thanks

  2. #2
    I ride a REAL Schwinn!
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    I think you'll definitely want to look at something a bit beefier, with more travel and more strength. This is even more important if your doing 5-6 foot drops. In my opinion, The Judy wouldn't hold up to that kind of riding.
    '00 Schwinn Moab 3 - XTR/XT/Thomson/Rhyno Lites/Skareb Super
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  3. #3
    Senior Member mechBgon's Avatar
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    Judy TT was a basic Judy, sort of an oversized Jet, with no hydraulic damping. I'm not a freerider but I'd assume you'd want damping capabilities. Maybe look for an affordable 5"-stroke Marzocchi?

  4. #4
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    that thing can barely handle normal xc riding w/o breaking. Save the money until that breaks and buy a zoke or manitou, or if you really have some dough a fox

  5. #5
    Senior Member CycleMON's Avatar
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    If you're looking to go inexpensive on a fork for freeriding, try the Judy XL with upgraded springs and fork oil; it might work. The fork has adjustable travel - 63, 80, or 100 mm.
    I try not to say too much, for fear of putting my foot in my mouth when it should be clipped to my pedals.

  6. #6
    Senior Member gabiker's Avatar
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    The Judy TT is a fairly good fork for entry level xc, but I wouldn't even do a 2 foot drop with one. I had one on my bike and replaced it with a Duke C. 1000% better.
    MEMBER:TITANIUM BIKE CLUB #003
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  7. #7
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    So are all Rockshox forks interchangeable?

  8. #8
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    If you get a Rockshox, it has to be either a Boxxer, Psylo, or SID. All of the other forks are just jokes. 5 foot drops? Get a Psylo or Boxxer. Other than that buy a Zoke.
    RIDE ON

  9. #9
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    i would not use the judy if i was doing that high of drops. its just not dependable or sturdy enough. If it was me i would definiatly upgrade to something with more travel. just my opinion
    MY BABY:

    03 Giant iguana marzocchi mx comp fork, time atac alium pedals, race face prodigy crank, sun ringle rhyno lite rims with xt hubs, avid mechanical disc brakes, easton ea 70 riser bar.

  10. #10
    Wood Licker Maelstrom's Avatar
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    Zoke dj3 is cheap and as strong as anything. For more variable's in riding try the z1. In short that fork doesn't cut it

  11. #11
    I drink your MILKSHAKE Raiyn's Avatar
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    Originally posted by freerider biker
    If you get a Rockshox, it has to be either a Boxxer, Psylo, or SID. All of the other forks are just jokes. 5 foot drops? Get a Psylo or Boxxer. Other than that buy a Zoke.
    Zoke's are nice but you left the Duke off your list anything BELOW that would be a joke.

  12. #12
    Footballus vita est iamlucky13's Avatar
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    So are all Rockshox forks interchangeable?
    The thing you want to look for is the 1 1/8" steer tube. This is a standard so it's usually not an issue (there are a few exceptions, such as the new long travel single-crowns by Manitou). Threaded steer tubes will NOT work on most mtb's and I'm not sure where to go if you have one of those (usually only older bikes and rigid forks)
    As for the Judy TT, it's second to the bottom for Rock Shox. It is decent as an entry level cross country. It's designed to smooth out the trail, help a rider maintain control, and take small drops, like riding over logs and off small ledges. It would wear out pretty quickly and probably break for freeride use.
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  13. #13
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    Hmmm........so what kind of fork would one want to replace a hardtail's Judy TT fork with? Hardtail's aren't much for pulling off tremendous jumps (I would assume), so is a better fork even necessary?

  14. #14
    Footballus vita est iamlucky13's Avatar
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    Depends on your riding style and how serious you really are. Honestly, my bike still has the Judy TT it came with and I don't actually intend to upgrade until I either upgrade my bike or start to wear the current one out. There is nothing specifically wrong it for recreational XC, but I do expect to eventually outgrow it. As for hardtails and jumps, freeriders are usually seen on full suspension rigs (expensive ones) and really dig the marzocchi forks, with good reason. My roommate, however, is getting into trials, which also involves some intense jumps and prefers the hardtail for its stability and firmness, as well as weight savings. Trials riders do jumping up onto things as well as down and have to be able to know intimately where their rear tire is. Not as big of drops as the freeriders, but decent size, and they use their knees to make up for the lack of rear suspension.
    "The internet is a place where absolutely nothing happens. You need to take advantage of that." ~ Strong Bad

  15. #15
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    So as long as I stay with a Rockshox fork with a 1 1/8" steerer tube I'll be ok, correct?

    And the swap just includes the deassembling and reassembling of the bike, no extra parts needed?

    I'm looking on Ebay and with every used fork I'm seeing "steerer tube cut to 7 1/4" or the like. I guess there's no standard length to cut the tube to, huh?
    Last edited by Ge|atinousFury; 01-23-03 at 09:28 PM.

  16. #16
    Just Pedal
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    Your steer tube length is determined by the stack height of your headset any spacers under the stem plus the stem clamp height minus about 1/4".

  17. #17
    NCAA - DUAL CHAMPIONS! a2psyklnut's Avatar
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    Let me try to clarify.

    As long as you have 1-1/8" steerer tube on your existing bike. I'm assuming yours is, the you can put any 1-1/8" fork on it. You don't have to stick to Rock Shox.

    Things to consider: Do you have rim brakes or discs? Make sure the new fork has canti-mounts if using rim brakes or disc tabs if you're using them.

    Steerer tube length. To measure yours, you need to measure from the top of fork crown, to the top of the stem. The steerer tube goes the whole way. If you've got a threadless stem (not a quill) make sure you get a non-threaded steerer tube.

    If you've got a standard quick release front hub, don't get a 20mm thru axle hub.

    Hope that helps!

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  18. #18
    Footballus vita est iamlucky13's Avatar
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    Just to make sure you understand (sorry if you already know). 1 1/8 inch is the standard steer tube diameter. Most forks (from any company: RockShox, Manitou, Marzocchi, Fox) use that standard and it will fit your bike. Steer tube length is customized for the bike it is initially installed on. Manufacturers will sell them longer than they are needed (maybe 10" tube length) and the owner cuts it based on the distance from the bottom of the headtube to the top of the stem. Your bike shop can also do this.
    BTW, what kind of bike do you have right now?
    The swap only reqires disassembly, reassembly, a special nut that goes inside the steer tube for the cap of the stem (proper name?), and maybe a pipe cutter.
    "The internet is a place where absolutely nothing happens. You need to take advantage of that." ~ Strong Bad

  19. #19
    NCAA - DUAL CHAMPIONS! a2psyklnut's Avatar
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    a special nut that goes inside the steer tube for the cap of the stem (proper name?)
    Star Nut!
    "Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming, "WOW, What a Ride!" - unknown
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  20. #20
    I drink your MILKSHAKE Raiyn's Avatar
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    Originally posted by a2psyklnut


    Star Nut!
    No no A2! It's a #^%^$ STAR-MANGLED #^%&%& NUT!!!

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