"Besides, bottoming out is NOT a function of the travel being to short"
cool. i did not know that. it makes sense though when you think about it i guess. though i have to make do with what i got right now so i am basically mostly just riding my bike with the thing locked out. (it has a lock out function, which i dont really care about cuz man i want suspension). is it possible for me to change the spring inside? if so, is it advisable to try do it on my own cuz my bike shop fellow said he cannot?
also, the lubricant thing. the stanchions (?) of my fork are totally dry. shouldnt the things get lubricated everytime they go down into the tubes? everytime the fork sinks in long it makes this loud noise as if something is being grinded. how do i lube it up so i can atleast switch the damn lock out thing off when im not going on the cowtrail where the thing bottoms out?
also, for arguments sake, or informations sake, if i dont care about warranty, and put a, lets say, 130 mm travel fork in my bike that originally came with an 80 mm travel fork, (let alone why i would need to do this on a cross country bike, like i said, just information sake) is this going to drastically change the way my bike handles? is it going to f**ck up the geometery or make it change for the worse if the kind of riding i am doing requires a lot of pedalling but also involves good bumpy steeps?
just curious, i wont be changing the fork on my bike for a some time that is for sure, whether it bottoms or not. but i am just wondering. my manitou axel elite is too soft for me. if i ever change this fork, which i will sooner or later, putting a Fox or SID or U turn 80 mm fork is okay for my kind of riding or should i get atleast 100mm? (the bike shop here does not have marzochhi (sp?))
(ps- this site is really helpful. thanks very much, and im hopelessly sorry for being a babbling pain in the ass)