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Thread: heavy riders?

  1. #1
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    heavy riders?

    I've justt started MTB'ing. I have a '99 Giant Warp (front suspension only). I love this bike and so far its taking the punishment pretty well.

    Now for my question, I'm 6'6'' tall and 250lbs, I ride single tracks that go from mild to downright scary, is this bike alright for the novice or is it actually working against me? I've gotten a few books read 'em cover to cover, no real help.

    I had to replace the chain after about 2 mo serious riding, kept breaking on hills, especialy the slipery rocky kind. Rode about 5 times on the new chain, no problems yet. Today I broke a shifter, can still make it work. Frame seems to be in great shape. I know, I can break an anvil with a rubber hammer. I expect to punish the bike more than the average sized rider, especially since I'm a novice and not real smooth in some sections.

    So will this bike hold up to the punishment, will it let me progress as I should, or do I need to mortgage the house and buy a different one, and if so which one?
    Be courteous to all, but intimate with few, and let those few be well tried before you give them your confidence.

    ~George Washington

  2. #2
    Dances with Rocks Dirtgrinder's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Forums Trigger!
    I went to Giants page but couldn't find the specs on that bike. From the pic though it doesn't look like it has very high-end components. Might not take as much punishment as you would like. The last Warp I looked at was really heavy too. But I'd still ride it 'til it dies.
    If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough...

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    Wood Licker Maelstrom's Avatar
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    I don't know the specs but speaking as a 6'5 250ish rider who is very strong I can give you some hints as to what to watch for on any future bikes.

    1 - As a taller rider you will more than likely find a freeride 'style' bike more suitable in the sense of Geometry. They shorten the top tube, drop the seat and raise the bars. This makes it GREAT for all types of riding. (Specialized P3, Kona Roast, Norco 4hun are all those types of geometries)

    2 - Drive train - upgrade ASAP. The rear hub will probably be a deore only, maybe less. You want minimum an LX. You should also learn to replace your own freewheel as you will go through these often. I replace mine once a month or so, until I can afford a good rear hub. You may want to look at a non freewheel based hub or a really high quality one. Also the minimum deraileur should be a Deore LX (Cheap but good shifting well worth breaking but won't break the bank)

    3 - Bottom Brackets - RaceFace. They are tough, strong with a bit more weight. But they are worth it. WHEN your breaks replace with a good raceace bb and you won't have any problems for a long while.

    4 - Crank Arms - Big and thick freeride. Even if you are riding xc you will want something strong just in case. Truvativ Husslefelts or Raceface make strong crank arms.

    5 - pedals - This will be the bst hint I can give you. Buy cheap. The expensive ones break fast too. I buy the 30$ really sharp flat pedals and replace them every month and a half. It will save money over the long haul imo.

    6 - GOOD forks. Depending on the extremeness of the riding get burly forks. You can't be a weight weenie. Your weight will make up the power lost with a heavier bike. Marzocchi's are the only way to go for big tough riders who go hard. Fox are close and NEVER think of getting rock shox.

    Now for the current bike. Consider the upgrades above they will be well worth it. Oh and as for the chain. They break. I replace them every 2 months. I am a horse on a bike considering I powerlifted and played football. Each stroke produces a lot of power. I keep a budget of 500$ for chains, freehubs, deraileurs and pedals cause they can all god any time. Once you get a good fork it should be fine for a long time.

    BTW are you sure it is a warp. Warps are duallies Check this link

    http://www.mtbreview.com/reviews/Bik...ct_19103.shtml

    Better double check that

    PS if it is aluminum it may be running out of life. Alum has a short life that is run out by stress over time. So if you bought it used from a hardcore rider you may want to look at getting a new bike
    Last edited by Maelstrom; 10-10-02 at 12:10 AM.

  4. #4
    I drink your MILKSHAKE Raiyn's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Maelstrom
    I.

    5 - pedals - This will be the best hint I can give you. Buy cheap. The expensive ones break fast too. I buy the 30$ really sharp flat pedals and replace them every month and a half. It will save money over the long haul imo.

    My 2 cents I use DK Iron Crosses on my ride and have had no problems with them (other than the fact that they're HEAVY)

  5. #5
    Gravity Is Yer Friend dirtbikedude's Avatar
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    Giant did make a ht Warp. If you are doing alot of hard/rough terrain, the bike is not designed for that. It is mainly a xc/trail bike. The new Warps are built stronger for hard riding, your bike is not. I would say ride it till it fails then purchase a good, strong freeride bike. There are many manufacturers to choose from.

    Slainte

    For those who do not know what the bike looks like here is a pic:

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    Wood Licker Maelstrom's Avatar
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    Haha I even looked it up but I assumed immediately by the Geometry that it was a dually

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    Thanks guys, I am sure to have a few more questions as this hobby takes over.

    Yep Dirtbikedude, Thats it.

    Seems like I should ride this one till it just won't go anymore, then a new one, can't wait.

    Be courteous to all, but intimate with few, and let those few be well tried before you give them your confidence.

    ~George Washington

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