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Thread: singlespeed

  1. #1
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    singlespeed

    IS it easy to make my specialized hardrock sport into a single speed? The lbs said i would need a new hub and they would charge $100 for hub and labor. If you know how can you give me some directions please. Thanks!
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    Banned. Jason222's Avatar
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    You don't need a new hub. You can use a full cassette if you'd like. Get a chain tensioner and it should work fine.

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    close to 2000 madbiker555's Avatar
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    Yea, your LBS sounds like they're trying to rip you off, you can use your current cassette (as mentioned) or buy a single speed kit that includes spacers and cog. If you have vertical drop-outs (most likely you do) then you will need a chain tensioner which should be around $20 max.

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    Svr
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    See here:

    http://www.mtbr.com/faq/ssfaq.shtml

    You won't need a new hub.

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    oh shoot!...are you serious...dang my lbs said it would cost around 300 bucks to convert!! that's insane. maybe they misunderstood me, but i thought it was pretty clear

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    you don't even need a chain tensioner you could just use your derailer.

    really you could do it for free by finding an old worn out cassette and disassemling it for spacers taking appart your cassette for more spacers and the right cog. Or you can just use the cogs on your current cassette as spacers.


    Idealy you would buy a new ss specific cog, chainring, chain, and a dedicated chain tensioner(still less then $100 total). but thats not at all neccessary if you are on a budget. The only reason to buy a dedicated hub is if you want a flip flop(different gears on each side) or if you want a stronger wheel(less space for cassette or freewheel=less dish=stronger).

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    I converted my hardtail to a rigid singlespeed last year. Here's what I changed (I did the work myself, so no labor charges, but I bought nice parts).

    1. Removed chainrings and replaced with a new Salsa chainring (no shifting ramps or pins, $24).
    2. Removed old, blown suspension fork and replaced with Surly 1x1 suspension-corrected rigid fork (about $40).
    3. Removed XT integrated shifters/brake levers and replaced with Avid SD7 levers (about $40).
    4. Removed derailleurs.
    5. Removed cassette and replaced with spacers and cog with no ramps (spacers and cog came as a kit, $20).
    6. Purchased Rennen Rollenlager chain tensioner ($50, but designed locally and pretty sweet).
    7. Replaced narrow, flat bar with wide, low-rise Easton aluminum bar ($35).

    Total: $205

    Not the most cost-effective conversion, but I re-used a frame that has sentimental value and hung some nice parts on it. The bike weighs about 19 lbs, 6 lbs lighter than when it was a hardtail.

  8. #8
    [CTRL Z] ponchotempest's Avatar
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    You dont need a new hub, but as stated above, the ss hub will make a stiffer wheel. The lbs isnt trying to rip you off, they're just doing it the right way.

    You should get a hub, spokes(if the hub calls for a different length), tensioner, and a new chain with chainring (if the old ones are worn). $100 is reasonable.

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    "I'm OK!" dminor's Avatar
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    If you don't have (or easily acquire) old cassetes to pirate the spacers out of, go to the hardware store and get a PVC pipe coupler (1 1/4"? - -I can't remember). You'll need to slightly ream out the ID to slip over the cassette carrier. Then set the cog of your choice on the carrier, eyeball perfect chainline and measure. Then cut two spacers from the coupler. As Dutret says, use your derailleur (or a junk one) for the tensioner. Run a short length of brake cable backwards (end into the stop) and set the cable tension to the right position. 30-cent singlespeed!

  10. #10
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    All you need are some spacers, some one ring bolts, a tensioner (either a rear der. or a tensioner like the surly singleator) and your favorite cog and chain ring. I've put together several singlespeed's this way, and have never had any problems. I've gotten lucky a couple times and had a cog and chainring combo that didn't require a tensioner.
    Booyah!!

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    ok ill think about doing that do you think its worth it for me to change i ride my local skatepark alot and would go up mountain biking like 1 time a week maybe.
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  12. #12
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    Singlespeeds are great, I say do it.

    Don't go the derraileur route, that takes away one of the main advantages of running a SS setup (no bouncy, sketchy piece of crap hooked to your chain). Get a chain tensioner, preferably a rigid one.

    Oh, and what are you doing for the front rings? If you keep the stock crankset, you'll still have three rings, and there's a good chance the chain will slip off since they're ramped for shifting. You might be able to get a single ring and use spacers, but a single ring crankset is probably better..

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    <i>You might be able to get a single ring and use spacers, but a single ring crankset is probably better..</i>

    huh? You can just take the other rings off and get shorter bolts. Or you could take off the inner one and put some sort of bash gaurd on the outer slot and use the same bolts.

    An 1/8th inch non-ramped chainring is definetly preferable but until you figure out what gear works best for your rides I would just use what you have and keep the front derailer on as a chain guide(set the limits so it can't move.) You can use your outer ring as a bash gaurd if you want. If you eventually get an 1/8th inch ring a bash guard is pretty much superfluous so why waste the money on a real one now.

  14. #14
    Canon fiend MadMan2k's Avatar
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    If you're going to leave almost everything on, why not just... not shift?

  15. #15
    "I'm OK!" dminor's Avatar
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    Better yet, why not just duct-tape your shifters inoperable and leave 'em alone?
    Dunno why singlespeeding has to be a cult 'statement' with a bunch of fancy-priced dedicated SS parts. Kinda takes away from the simplicity of it in the first place.

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    That's not a bad idea, to see if you like it or not.
    My reason for liking singlespeeds is mainly that you can ride and do things without worrying about the chain popping off, or bouncing around or anything. The one on my hardrock will usually drop to the first ring if I even do a bunny hop or land rough from a stoppie...
    So keeping most of the stock parts doesn't really improve the robustness of the setup much.

    Plus, I hate hearing the gears and everything bouncing around, it makes me worry about whether or not I can pedal to keep my speed up when I get to the bottom of the hill, or if I'll rack myself on the top tube...
    I rode a CF full suspension Scott in the bike shop parking lot today, probably had XTR gearing and stuff, and it was basically the same way. Didn't drop to the first ring, but I just rode down a couple stairs to see how the suspension smoothed it out anyways. Always a treat to ride a bike with Juicy's though...

  17. #17
    "I'm OK!" dminor's Avatar
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    I see your point. Hey, I saw the darnedest 'tensioner' the other day (guess it's old skool, but I'd never seen it before): looked like a small middle-ring stuck between top and bottom chain runs right ahead of the rear hub. Took up any extra slop and rolled around with the chain without moving. Clever.
    [I hate getting old . . .for the life of me I can't remember where I saw that now ]
    Edit: Found it! Page 134 of the latest Decline . . . and it was a granny ring.
    Last edited by dminor; 04-04-06 at 12:48 AM.

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    i dont get how to do it...it looks so complicated like i mean it doesnt make sense to me.
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    i dont really understand...its like really complicated. Can anyone write it easier or a good link. Sorry about that thanks!
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    i dont really understand...its like really complicated. Can anyone write it easier or a good link. Sorry about that thanks!
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  21. #21
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    i dont really understand...its like really complicated. Can anyone write it easier or a good link. Sorry about that thanks!
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  22. #22
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    Well Thanks! Im gonna probaly not going to do it myself its really complicated unless i can find a better website link or if anyone can post an easier to understand one. Thanks!
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  23. #23
    "I'm OK!" dminor's Avatar
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    I hope you are kidding. It is the opposite of complicated. But here is probably the best link that explains the whole singlespeed conversion process:
    http://sheldonbrown.com/singlespeed.html
    Sheldon Brown is 'the man' when it comes to this kind of stuff; and his explanations are very good.

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