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  1. #1
    Senior Member pvfjr's Avatar
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    Finally picked up a bike, newbie q's...

    I just picked up a new (to me) '03 Giant Warp DS1. It looks like it's seen a few mods, but I'm wondering what's good and what's bad. I'm a little cloudy as to the exact definitions of FR, XC, DH, dirt jumping, etc and the differences between them; but I figure I'm probably more of a XC rider. It's been a while since I've done any biking, and this will be my first real bike. Last one was a $125 Pacific, but hey, it withstood almost 3000 miles with regular maintenance.


    Click pics to enlarge

    The DS1:



    First off, it has a set of Marzzocchi Bombers in the front, which I'm sure are an upgrade. I believe it was supposed to have Manitou Axel Supers when it was stock.

    It's also got some Deore shifters. It seems that XT's seem to be the ultimate components, but how do Deores rate?


    And the rear shock...


    Deore rear deraileur and SRAM cassette...


    Truvativ ISIS drive Hussefelt crank, and Azonic pedals...


    Hub...


    Double walled Alex rims...


    Avid disc brakes...

  2. #2
    Senior Member pvfjr's Avatar
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    A couple of the big questions I had:

    This thing came with these tubeless tires, that leak like crazy. The seller told me about it before I bought it, and filled them for me before I got it from him. They were both flat within the next 8 hours. I was going to do a leak check on them to find out where it's leaking, but they have some weird valve stem that I don't have a way to air up! Is there some sort of adapter for these things? What would it be called, and where would I find it?




    Manufacturer Information says that this bike is a 27 speed, but I'm only seeing two gears in the front, and they look pretty small. Did somebody gear this thing down for trail riding? It's gonna be my only bike for a while, so I'd like it to be road friendly, but it doesn't appear that I'll be able to go very fast with this setup. How hard/expensive would it be to go back to a 27 speed? Advisable?


    That's all for now. Let the component debate begin.

  3. #3
    Shreddin' heaven on his 20" the wonginator's Avatar
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    okay.

    1st: you will need a presta valve adapter. normally pumps are designed for schraeder (at gas stations, etc.), but this type of valve is supposedly 'superior'. you could probably pick one up for 5 bucks at a local bike shop. To seal your tire, i think you need to get some stan's notubes sealant and basically work it through the tire... but i have no experience with tubeless, so i'll let someone expand on that.

    2nd: Looking at the parts spec, the previous owner definetely built it more as a light DH/FR all mountain spec. They definetely put a bashie on there, so that you won't chew up a third chainring, and protects the other two. i actually like the spec on this bike. if i owned this bike, i would keep the spec it has now, and just upgrade as things break. i wouldn't bother putting another chainring on there, since this isn't exactly a road-friendly bike in the first place.

    EDIT: Shimano XTR's are the top-of-the-line for shimano, XT's are one step below... Deore's are the high-end of the low-end spec components. Deore is what most people get for their freeride bikes, because they work great, but if they break they're very cheap to replace (you can find a very nicely used one for 20 bucks)

  4. #4
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    Just a question how much did you get it for? Thanks!
    Specialized Hardrock Sport 2006
    Dk Four Pack 2004 (Dont have anymore traded for a Bmx racing bike Free Agent Speedway Junior!

  5. #5
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    i agree with the previous poster. The previous owner of this bike intended this thing to be a light DH/ Free Ride Bike. If my memory serves me correctly, the Warp Frame isnt going to win any lightest bike of the year awards, therefore, the lack of the full 27 gears wont hurt you - you'll never need anything higher then what you got, given the weight of the bike and your riding level.

    As you get more fit, you'll probably want the 40+ tooth third ring in the front, but dont sweat it.

    Regarding the components, I went from an XT bike to a Deore bike and the stuff works great. I used to race (alot) and I am not sure how well the Deore stuff would hold up if I was racing 10+ XC races a year, but for the 2 times a week I get out the Deore stuff has been fantastic. As I break stuff, I am upgrading.

  6. #6
    Senior Member pvfjr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Specializerider
    Just a question how much did you get it for? Thanks!
    Well I broke down and shelled out $400 for it, cause I was tired of waiting. It seems like every other bike I got interested in sold the instant they were listed! I jumped on this one as quick as I could, didn't give anyone else a chance. I figured with some of the upgrades it had that it might be a decent deal. Plus the kid selling it was pretty lightweight, so it shouldn't be thrashed too bad.

  7. #7
    Senior Member pvfjr's Avatar
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    Thanks for the replys guys. It looks like I'll be headed to the LBS to get an adapter for these presta valves if I ever have time. Maybe I'll have them help me get these tires figured out. It looks like there was a layer of rubber layed down inside the rim, wrapping all the way around the wheel. It looks like the tire is glued to this flat piece of rubber, but the glue looked kind of crusty when I peeled back the tire a ways. It doesn't appear that the bead of the actual tire was really sealed against the rim itself, as it would be in the automotive applications that I'm familiar with.

    So where's a good place to find a 3rd chainring? What kind of specs do I need to look for, or is this stuff pretty universal and interchangeable? I'd like to add a 42 tooth ring back onto it if I could. I'll be happy if I can do that without having to buy a whole new crank set.

    I guess I'll have to measure my rear shock and start figuring out what to shop for.

    And about my front fork, it seems kind of soft. I haven't sat on the bike and measured the sag (don't want to sit on it till I get air in the tires). So would the bomber be an air shock? Would I need to put air in it or something? Could there be an oil leak or something? I don't really know what type of shock it is or how to maintain and check it.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by pvfjr
    Thanks for the replys guys. It looks like I'll be headed to the LBS to get an adapter for these presta valves if I ever have time. Maybe I'll have them help me get these tires figured out. It looks like there was a layer of rubber layed down inside the rim, wrapping all the way around the wheel. It looks like the tire is glued to this flat piece of rubber, but the glue looked kind of crusty when I peeled back the tire a ways. It doesn't appear that the bead of the actual tire was really sealed against the rim itself, as it would be in the automotive applications that I'm familiar with.
    I dont own tubeless tires, but this sounds alot like a tubeless tire setup.


    Quote Originally Posted by pvfjr
    So where's a good place to find a 3rd chainring? What kind of specs do I need to look for, or is this stuff pretty universal and interchangeable? I'd like to add a 42 tooth ring back onto it if I could. I'll be happy if I can do that without having to buy a whole new crank set.
    Your best bet would be to have your LBS spec out the ring for you. However, if you know the type of crankset on the bike and the bolt pattern, you can easily buy a ring online from nashbar, performance, colorado cyclist, excel...

    Quote Originally Posted by pvfjr
    I guess I'll have to measure my rear shock and start figuring out what to shop for.

    And about my front fork, it seems kind of soft. I haven't sat on the bike and measured the sag (don't want to sit on it till I get air in the tires). So would the bomber be an air shock? Would I need to put air in it or something? Could there be an oil leak or something? I don't really know what type of shock it is or how to maintain and check it.
    I dont own a Marz fork, but for every fork I have ever owned, I was able to download literature from the mfgr's website. Try that first. Second best bet would be to see if your LBS has any old manuals lying around.

    If it is an air sprung fork, you're going to need a high pressure fork pump to add air. The rule of thumb is the fork psi = your weight @ 10mm sag. So, step 1 would be to pump the fiork up to your weight, and then start adding/ reducing the air level until the fork sags about 10mm with you sitting on it. BTW, the easiest way to do this is to balance yourself in a door frame - you want to be sitting on the bike in the same posture you'll be riding i.e. hands on the handlebars or close to it.

    Then, take the bike on the trails and ride it. Alot. After a few rides start adjusting the air level until the fork feels good for you. If your have the pre-load knob dialed all the way and the fork still bottoms out on drops, you need to add more air. With the preload dialed to the max, you fork should feel very very stiff. if you sagged it right the first time, you should be ok

    The oil level controls the damping - i.e. how fast the fork compresses. Your fork may also have a rebound adjustment, which controls how fast the fork returns to its normal position after compressing. I have my rebound set so that the fork doesnt 'jump" up at me when rebounding from a big drop. Some people agonize over these settings.

    Lastly, your fork probably also has a pre-load adjustment knob as I mentioned above. You can tune this adjustment "on the fly" depending on what type of trails your riding. If your going to be riding alot of flat stiff,set the fork on the stiff side.

    Check the air level about once a month. I dont mess with the oil. I take it to the shop and have the pull the fork apart and clean it and fill the oil. I have done it, and its a pain in the arse. Pay your shop $60 o r whatever they want for a fork overhaul. I get this done about once a year, maybe every 18 mos.

    If your riding through a lot of sloppy mucky wet stuff you may want get it done sooner because no matter how good your fork seals are you will get moisture and dirt in the fork.

  9. #9
    Senior Member pvfjr's Avatar
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    Ok, well it looks like my chainrings have 4 bolts, space at about 105mm? Is this one of the standard bolt patterns? Or am I a couple mm off?

  10. #10
    Senior Member pvfjr's Avatar
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    Well I looked at all the bike shops you listed, thanks for that. I wouldn't have know where to start otherwise. Looks like I've probably got the 104mm x 4 bolt pattern. I couldn't seem to find what I need at those shops, but I did find an Azonic on ebay. Would this work for me? Or should I keep looking for one with those chain shifting ramps? Azonic Ring

  11. #11
    Senior Member pvfjr's Avatar
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    Or a sloped race face? http://www.beyondbikes.com/BB/ItemDe...c01%2DBLA%2D44

    A salsa? http://www.rei.com/online/store/Prod...jpg&view=large

    Or a Truvativ? That's what my cranks are, so probably my chainrings too. Would it matter what brand I go with? http://www.bikemannetwork.com/biking/p/CR2455
    Last edited by pvfjr; 05-04-06 at 11:22 PM.

  12. #12
    Senior Member pvfjr's Avatar
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    Alright, I think I may have settled on this Truvativ chainring. It's got ramps and pins, should be a decent match to the stuff I have. Opinions?
    http://www.bikeusa.com/MERCHANT2/mer...ct_Code=CR2423

  13. #13
    Mad bike riding scientist cyccommute's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pvfjr
    Alright, I think I may have settled on this Truvativ chainring. It's got ramps and pins, should be a decent match to the stuff I have. Opinions?
    http://www.bikeusa.com/MERCHANT2/mer...ct_Code=CR2423
    It should be fine. It a good size and should work well with the crank.

    Adjustments: Get a longer seat post. You've got a BMX post on that thing! To get some real speed, you need more leg extension unless the bike is too big for you. Also, unless you enjoy proctology exams on every ride, bring that saddle nose down some! Your saddle shouldn't look like it's getting ready for a moon shot I never have been able to figure out the saddles on downhiller bikes. All the saddles on my bikes are dead level, with the exception of my dual suspension bike. On that one the nose is tilted downward so that when the sag on the rear shock kicks in the saddle is level.

    Every downhill/freeride bike I've ever seen looks like it has an erection Maybe someone can enlighten me.
    Stuart Black
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  14. #14
    Amateur Hack
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    cyccommute, when you are going downhill, the front wheel is lower than the rear wheel so the seat is actually more horizontal during use than it looks when just sitting there.

  15. #15
    Mad bike riding scientist cyccommute's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by _dhan_
    cyccommute, when you are going downhill, the front wheel is lower than the rear wheel so the seat is actually more horizontal during use than it looks when just sitting there.
    But when ever I go downhill (and trust me I've gone down a great number) my butt is never planted on the saddle The only time I'm sitting on the saddle is on the flats (or uphill) which would make that saddle orientation very uncomfortable...unless, of course, you are into that sort of thing
    Stuart Black
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  16. #16
    Mad bike riding scientist cyccommute's Avatar
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    By the way, what the hell are you doing on the computer at this late hour? I'm working (and I work 8 to 5) but then I'm being real stupid. What are you doing? Shouldn't you be in bed?!
    Stuart Black
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  17. #17
    Senior Member pvfjr's Avatar
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    Yeah, I'm only 5'7", so I'll have to see how things fit and adjust what I can. The seatpost has quite a bit of room for adjustment if I want to bring it up some. It's a 16.5" frame, so hopefully it'll fit me fine. I know what you mean about the seat, I always hated it when they're like that. I had a friend that always adjusted them that way, drove me nuts. It's actually loose right now anyway, so I'll figure out where I want it when I go to tighten it down.

    So I'll probably just order that Truvativ chainring, hopefully I've got this all figured out right. I'll throw some tubes in there next week, looks like I might be able to actually ride this soon!

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