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  1. #1
    Senior Member Jim311's Avatar
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    My new ride is together! *Pics*

    Took it out yesterday in the cold.. had an awesome ride. Tubeless tires are REALLY fast.. I was very surprised. Let off the brakes and you just barely loose any speed. I think I'm going to go hydraulic with the brakes, however. SRAM makes a set (9.0 disc) that I might give a try.. seems to have good reviews. I love how the SRAM XO deraillers shift.... awesome performance.

    Anyway, enough chatter. Here are the pics.
    My money pits:

    Cannondale Jekyll 500 with Avid Mechs and Sun DS2 rims with XT disc hubs.

    Cannondale F900 with SRAM XO shifters/derailler, Mavic X3.1 tubeless wheels, Avid Mechs, Race Face Next LP cranks, Time ATAC pedals, SRAM levers.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Jim311's Avatar
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    .
    My money pits:

    Cannondale Jekyll 500 with Avid Mechs and Sun DS2 rims with XT disc hubs.

    Cannondale F900 with SRAM XO shifters/derailler, Mavic X3.1 tubeless wheels, Avid Mechs, Race Face Next LP cranks, Time ATAC pedals, SRAM levers.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Jim311's Avatar
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    The bike's specs are in my signature, by the way.
    My money pits:

    Cannondale Jekyll 500 with Avid Mechs and Sun DS2 rims with XT disc hubs.

    Cannondale F900 with SRAM XO shifters/derailler, Mavic X3.1 tubeless wheels, Avid Mechs, Race Face Next LP cranks, Time ATAC pedals, SRAM levers.

  4. #4
    Hucker Extraordinare BigHit-Maniac's Avatar
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    I'm not a huge fan of Cannondales... but damn that thing has a badass paint job . ! I LIKE it !

    Nice ride man. Keep blazin' through the cold... you'll thank yourself this coming spring / summer when you'll be able to make it around the block without huffing & puffing

    Awesome dude. I like it. Nice rig'

    Got Nine Inches ? Cuz I do. http://67.19.50.55/forums/images/smilies/eviltongue.gif

    AIM: MtnBikeHucker

  5. #5
    NCAA - DUAL CHAMPIONS! a2psyklnut's Avatar
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    Sweet bike, my wife has the road bike with the same paint scheme. Her's is the R4000.

    Good to hear your pleased with the new set-up.

    L8R
    "Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming, "WOW, What a Ride!" - unknown
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  6. #6
    Senior Member palooka's Avatar
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    Sweet Another vote for bad-ass paint job Cannondale has some very slick paint schemes. I just checked out a few at a LBS. One was painted with a map of the town Cannondales are made in (Can't remember the town), and one was painted like a "woody" car from the 60's Cool stuff.


    My first MTB (that wasn't from a department store) was a F800 and I loved it...despite the Coda components.
    "I'm very proud of my gold pocket watch. My grandfather, on his deathbed, sold me this watch." - Woody Allen

  7. #7
    bac
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    Senior Member bac's Avatar
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    REALLY cool looking scoot, Jim!!!!!

  8. #8
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    Hey,
    Just wondering why you gonna go to Hydraulics? I went with hydros over mechs because i felt that the lever feel would be more positive, more power, and the set up is easier

  9. #9
    Senior Member Jim311's Avatar
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    The frame is made for hydraulic tubing. Which means that there aren't any provisions for cable actuated brakes. I have to run one solid cable down the entire tube and into the back brake because there are no cable stops. The frame was designed for hydraulics, which I didn't even know until I looked at it. So my rear brake just doesn't feel right somehow. Too much cable, I guess. I think hydraulics will have a better feel at the levers, and have more stopping power, too.
    My money pits:

    Cannondale Jekyll 500 with Avid Mechs and Sun DS2 rims with XT disc hubs.

    Cannondale F900 with SRAM XO shifters/derailler, Mavic X3.1 tubeless wheels, Avid Mechs, Race Face Next LP cranks, Time ATAC pedals, SRAM levers.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Kustomz's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Jim311
    The frame is made for hydraulic tubing. Which means that there aren't any provisions for cable actuated brakes. I have to run one solid cable down the entire tube
    My y2k Jamis Komodo frame was like this, but your LBS should be able to supply a flanged cable end allowing you to eliminate the center section of housing.

  11. #11
    member Yo MikeOK's Avatar
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    Sweet bike Jim! I like the color scheme.

  12. #12
    Senior Member Jim311's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Kustomz

    My y2k Jamis Komodo frame was like this, but your LBS should be able to supply a flanged cable end allowing you to eliminate the center section of housing.

    The mechanic said that they don't make cable stops for that large a diameter of tubing
    My money pits:

    Cannondale Jekyll 500 with Avid Mechs and Sun DS2 rims with XT disc hubs.

    Cannondale F900 with SRAM XO shifters/derailler, Mavic X3.1 tubeless wheels, Avid Mechs, Race Face Next LP cranks, Time ATAC pedals, SRAM levers.

  13. #13
    Senior Member Kustomz's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Jim311
    The mechanic said that they don't make cable stops for that large a diameter of tubing
    Sure they do! Jamis even has a part# for an adapter, but I just used a universal one on mine. Maybe a well trained Cannondale shop can look one up for your brand.

    I measured the ID of the tubing hanger at .24" or 6.1mm, and would think it is just industry standard. If the flange on the cable end is large enough to keep it from going through, that is really all you need.

  14. #14
    Senior Member Jim311's Avatar
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    Doh... I meant the tubing on the frame. The mechanic said the frame's tubing was so large that they didn't have cable stops that would fit it. Have you got any links anywhere to the parts you're talking about? That would make my brakes feel SO much better.
    My money pits:

    Cannondale Jekyll 500 with Avid Mechs and Sun DS2 rims with XT disc hubs.

    Cannondale F900 with SRAM XO shifters/derailler, Mavic X3.1 tubeless wheels, Avid Mechs, Race Face Next LP cranks, Time ATAC pedals, SRAM levers.

  15. #15
    reddingmountainbiking.com jekyllrider's Avatar
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    Jim,
    Cannondale sells an insert which fits inside the braze-on guides which you are running the housing through. My Jekyll has them for the shifter cable on the left side. Maybe you can use one on the forward and rear guide on the top tube and the cable would (hopefully) just center inside the middle one. Then you would just have a full housing down the seat stay. See if these are what you need.
    http://www.cannondale.com/bikes/tech...cablestops.pdf
    Scott

  16. #16
    Senior Member Jim311's Avatar
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    Awesome! I think that will work perfectly. I just wish I didn't have to go to the only Cannondale dealer in town.. they're a bunch of ignorant jerks. I try to avoid dealing with them, but in this case I guess I'll have to. Thanks for the help.. that's exactly what I need. That should make my brakes feels a hell of alot firmer and more responsive.


    Also.. the mechanic at the shop said that avid discs don't work well with XTR v-brakes because of the "Servo wave" mechanism that the XTR levers use. Is there any truth to this? Would I be better off just buying a set of Avid levers?
    My money pits:

    Cannondale Jekyll 500 with Avid Mechs and Sun DS2 rims with XT disc hubs.

    Cannondale F900 with SRAM XO shifters/derailler, Mavic X3.1 tubeless wheels, Avid Mechs, Race Face Next LP cranks, Time ATAC pedals, SRAM levers.

  17. #17
    I drink your MILKSHAKE Raiyn's Avatar
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    Man it sounds like your wrench is a real have him swap out those XTR levers out for a set of SD 5's or something (he should do it for free as long as the XTR's are in A1 shape) as far as the "servo wave" I can't see how that would cause a problem but what do I know. note: You don't HAVE to use Avid levers for thier mech discs the Avid levers just have more adjustment features.

  18. #18
    Jubalayo Unogwaja! Bokkie's Avatar
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    jim311 - those XO shifters. The 3-spd in particular. I recall from a demo unit that there are maybe 2 stop positions between 1 and 2 and 2 and 3 on the shifter? That is, shifting from 1 to 2 you have to click the shifter in increments, if that makes sense. Point I'm getting at, is when you are ideally positioned on the middle ring for example, is the shifter visibly on 1.5, 2, 2.5? Sorry if that sounds a bit of a daft description but maybe you see what I'm getting at?

    Next time you post a photo you should think of blanking out the Cannondale logo, like they used to do with semi naked ladies where they'd print a big black bar over the boobs. You can't be too careful, cos promoting Cannondale is a very dirty word at the moment. Some folk will tear you to shreds for it. You've been warned!
    If your bollocks ain't sore, yer ain't on yer boike!

  19. #19
    Senior Member Jim311's Avatar
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    BAH! Never will I censor the brand name of such a fine company!


    all the haters!


    Most people think Cannondale makes nice frames, but they put crappy components on their bikes. Which I agree with.. and that's exactly why I bought just a frame and put MY parts spec on it!
    My money pits:

    Cannondale Jekyll 500 with Avid Mechs and Sun DS2 rims with XT disc hubs.

    Cannondale F900 with SRAM XO shifters/derailler, Mavic X3.1 tubeless wheels, Avid Mechs, Race Face Next LP cranks, Time ATAC pedals, SRAM levers.

  20. #20
    Senior Member Jim311's Avatar
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    Oh, and Bokkie... there's a whole BUNCH of different stops between 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears. Not just one or two inbetween.
    My money pits:

    Cannondale Jekyll 500 with Avid Mechs and Sun DS2 rims with XT disc hubs.

    Cannondale F900 with SRAM XO shifters/derailler, Mavic X3.1 tubeless wheels, Avid Mechs, Race Face Next LP cranks, Time ATAC pedals, SRAM levers.

  21. #21
    Jubalayo Unogwaja! Bokkie's Avatar
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    jim311. Those inbetween steps on the shifter. Do you ride using the one that gives the smoothest ride or have you adjusted it (if possible) so that it sits bang on 1 or 2 or 3. I'm just wondering if those inbetween steps were part of the design or whether they were solutions to 'inbetween' problems when shifting. I mean if those inbetween steps are important to you setup, then why did they not just opt for a 9-spd shifter but remove some of the numbers.

    Glad you like the XOs. Mine are due end of January.

    Happy to hear you love Cannondale. That at least makes two of us!
    If your bollocks ain't sore, yer ain't on yer boike!

  22. #22
    Senior Member Jim311's Avatar
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    It depends on what gears I'm curently in. If the chain starts to rub on the derailler, I'll move it a click or two away from the number, but most of the time it's on 1, 2, or 3... not usually inbetween until I'm crossing the chain really far.


    I know there's alot more of us Cannondale fans out there, too
    My money pits:

    Cannondale Jekyll 500 with Avid Mechs and Sun DS2 rims with XT disc hubs.

    Cannondale F900 with SRAM XO shifters/derailler, Mavic X3.1 tubeless wheels, Avid Mechs, Race Face Next LP cranks, Time ATAC pedals, SRAM levers.

  23. #23
    Senior Member Kustomz's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Jim311
    Have you got any links anywhere to the parts you're talking about?
    The pdf that jeckyllrider posted is very similar to what you will need. Any Cannondale dealer worth there weight should be able to supply a model specific sleeve.

  24. #24
    Senior Member Jim311's Avatar
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    That could explain why they said they didn't have the parts for my bike... I didn't go to a Cannondale dealer since mine pissed me off last time I was in there. Hopefully I can find another dealer in town to help me out.
    My money pits:

    Cannondale Jekyll 500 with Avid Mechs and Sun DS2 rims with XT disc hubs.

    Cannondale F900 with SRAM XO shifters/derailler, Mavic X3.1 tubeless wheels, Avid Mechs, Race Face Next LP cranks, Time ATAC pedals, SRAM levers.

  25. #25
    reddingmountainbiking.com jekyllrider's Avatar
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    [QUOTE]Originally posted by Jim311
    I know there's alot more of us Cannondale fans out there, too


    Yep.
    I own a F500 with mostly XTR, Avid Ti brakes, Monkeylite carbon bar, Thomson post & upgraded to a Fatty Ultra.
    a Jekyll 3000SL with XTR, King hubs, Hayes brakes, Monkeylite carbon bar, Thomson post, soon to have a Fox Float RLC up front.
    No complaints of the Headshok, just not enough travel.
    I'm running the Cannondale EX3 splined cranks on both bikes as I haven't found a good reason to change them.
    My son has the M400 Killer V style with a Marzocchi Z2, hayes mechs and LX & XT mix.
    Bottom line, all 3 bikes have been excellent.

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