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Old 06-11-06, 09:25 PM   #1
marxoverkill
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Disc Brakes weak?

So i just bought a new bike last wenesday....and ive taken out for a couple rides but nothing too hard.......this is my first bike with disc brakes so im not sure how they are suppose to feel.
My question is are the disc brakes gonna feel weak at first and do they have to be broken in?
thanx for any information about them
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Old 06-11-06, 09:27 PM   #2
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What kind are they? Crap discs are crap, good discs are very good.
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Old 06-11-06, 09:33 PM   #3
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Yes you have to wear in the pads because when pads are produced they put a coat of wax on them for shipping...but like Flak said it all depends on the quality of the actual disk brakes.
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Old 06-11-06, 09:33 PM   #4
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Yeah the pads have to be broke in, additionally hydros will need bleeding.

However, the brakes shouldn't feel weak (unless they are low end brakes), my BB5s (the only mech worth using (that and other avid mechs obviously) apart from some systems like IRD's Dual Bangers which are less common) felt a little spongy and underpowered but they weren't weak by any means and were still leaps and bounds better than v-brakes and cheap discs (*cough* promax, mech shimano *cough*) when I first got my bike but now that I have them setup properly and have used them a lot they are excellent, what I like about discs is the modulation, I have mechanical discs and even so, I really like how well they modulate over v-brake, I can't wait to try some hydros.

At the moment I have my rear brake set up ultra tight, meaning it will lock the rear wheel with little effort and very little lever pull but will obviously not modulate well, this works like a charm for my trials needs, not a problem though for when I ride other stuff since my front brake is set up to modulate pretty well and since the front brake is all I need then I can truly have my cake and eat it too.
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Old 06-11-06, 09:36 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flak
What kind are they? Crap discs are crap, good discs are very good.
Hayes MX-1 XC 6" mechanical disc
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Old 06-11-06, 09:42 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chone
Yeah the pads have to be broke in, additionally hydros will need bleeding.
New hydraulic brakes do not have to be bled. Where did you get such a crazy notion?

For the OP:

New brakes do need to have the pads bedded in, just like on a car.

Find a hill, do a number repeated hard stops, and you should be fine.
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Old 06-11-06, 09:49 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hank Rearden
New hydraulic brakes do not have to be bled. Where did you get such a crazy notion?

For the OP:

New brakes do need to have the pads bedded in, just like on a car.

Find a hill, do a number repeated hard stops, and you should be fine.
sweet....yeah i took it down my backyard hill a couple times today....
thanx for the info guys
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Old 06-11-06, 10:56 PM   #8
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umm and yeah its not the pads that need to be worn in, its the rotor. Its like putting rubber on a race track.
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Old 06-11-06, 11:32 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FreeRidin'
umm and yeah its not the pads that need to be worn in, its the rotor.
Sorry, but you're wrong.

If you were right, then you could simply slap a new set of pads on an old rotor and it would stop just fine...
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Old 06-12-06, 05:15 AM   #10
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excuse me for my ignorance but what does modulation mean exactly? And disk brakes need to be set up properly?lol.
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Old 06-12-06, 11:39 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kennethfaria
excuse me for my ignorance but what does modulation mean exactly? And disk brakes need to be set up properly?lol.

Modulation means being able to vary the braking power. Instead of it just loicking up when you hit the brakes (like a on-off swith) you can vary the braking power (like a dimmer switch.)
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Old 06-12-06, 09:43 PM   #12
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(And disk brakes need to be set up properly?) - Yes


Hayes HMX-1....i am never a fan of Hayes...esp the HMX1...the BB7 is better....the pads and rotor needs broken in
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Old 06-12-06, 11:46 PM   #13
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achc - this isn't a thread about BB7's being better. The OP didn't have a choice of brakes on his new bike.

Chone - do you even know what bleeding is? How you can possible say they would sell a bike without being bled is just stupid, and makes no sense... Hydraullics should only need bleeding if there is air in the system, and this process is removing the bubles and pushing out the old fluid while pushing new fluid through.

FreeRidin' - Your wrong

OP:
I also feel thats its not just 'pads' needed to be bedded in, its the whole brakeset when new. Especially for Hydraullics, you need to really do a few good hours of riding to get the pistons moving nicley, the brakes bedding into the rotor, getting the fluid moving back and forth through the caliper .
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Old 06-13-06, 12:19 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hank Rearden
New hydraulic brakes do not have to be bled. Where did you get such a crazy notion?
on the contrary, i find that the factory bleed can sometimes be a little subpar. i bled my juicys right after one ride and they felt muuuch better
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Old 06-13-06, 12:25 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by concernicus
on the contrary, i find that the factory bleed can sometimes be a little subpar. i bled my juicys right after one ride and they felt muuuch better
Yeah thats what I meant to say Concernicus, factory bleds are not always optimal, tons of trials riders find that bleeding their new Magura HS-33 makes them feel and brake better and the same probably applies to other manufacturers.
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Old 06-13-06, 12:41 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by concernicus
on the contrary, i find that the factory bleed can sometimes be a little subpar. i bled my juicys right after one ride and they felt muuuch better
Two sets of Maguras, five sets of Hopes, never a need to bleed new brakes.

I've also helped friends install Hayes and Shimano (and some Hopes as well) brakes and we've never bled any of the systems.

Maybe Avid had some QC issues?
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