RST DA Problem
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RST DA Problem
Well i got a braking problem. The right pad of the brake is always touching the disk, and whenever i ride it makes a squeeking noise and whenever i brake it makes a higher pitched squeeking noise, how do i fix it. could i do it myself or would i be better of going to a shop?
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If its the inside pad as I am imagining, then you have a dial/screw/something on that side to dial the pad in or out. If it is rubbing, you will "unscrew" whatever the adjustment device is, like 1/4 turn at a time. Squeeze the brakes after every 1/4 turn to reseat the pad, then give the wheel a spin and see where you are at. Some rubbing is pretty normal for a disc brake, but if its enough that the wheel doesn't spin freely, or stops rather firmly in its rotation at a given point, you either do need adjustment of the pads or you need to straighten your rotor.
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it doesnt stop but it makes **** annoying sound when i first got it with the bike, it was normal... YEAh ill try loosening the screws to see if it'll go back to normal...BTW which screws would i loosen or tighten.
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first off, which brakes are you using???
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Tomac Mountain Bikes | Light-Bikes l Magura USA | Industry Nine | Schwalbe Tires | Caffélatex
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i am using:
https://www.rst.com.tw/product/product-discbrake.htm
i cant find a manual for the brake anywhere on the site.
https://www.rst.com.tw/product/product-discbrake.htm
i cant find a manual for the brake anywhere on the site.
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OK - I will help, as I'm sure nobody else has even seen these, much less worked on them. I have had two sets, as well as a couple sets of the newer D-Power RST brakes. With the DAs, the problem is easy to cure. Both pucks are activated squeeziing in toward the center (like the IRD Dual-Bangers).
The problem you are experiencing is because you did not get the caliper perfectly centered when you were setting it up. You will need to loosen the bolts that hold the caliper to the 'adapter.' the calliper has slotted holes that allow side-to-side adjustment. Now squeeze (or better yet have a buddy do it) the brake lever firmly. This will recenter the caliper on the rotor. Retighten the bolts. Now it should not drag.
If it continues to give you fits, let me know - - PM me if you feel you need to. One caveat on all of this (and I hate to say this, because RST is a sponsor ) : You will never get the power out of the DAs that you should. I tried EVERYTHING, including the better purple pads. The design, unfortunately, just dos not cut it. Good luck!
The problem you are experiencing is because you did not get the caliper perfectly centered when you were setting it up. You will need to loosen the bolts that hold the caliper to the 'adapter.' the calliper has slotted holes that allow side-to-side adjustment. Now squeeze (or better yet have a buddy do it) the brake lever firmly. This will recenter the caliper on the rotor. Retighten the bolts. Now it should not drag.
If it continues to give you fits, let me know - - PM me if you feel you need to. One caveat on all of this (and I hate to say this, because RST is a sponsor ) : You will never get the power out of the DAs that you should. I tried EVERYTHING, including the better purple pads. The design, unfortunately, just dos not cut it. Good luck!
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Last edited by dminor; 06-12-06 at 10:18 PM.
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dminor is the man!!!!!!!
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Like a circus monkey on a stolen Harley......
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Purple pads are better?... it came stock on my bike from sportcheck. This must be a one out of a thousand bike ..ill keep it i think. Lol
Thanks for the help man, and if anything happens ill let you know.
Thanks for the help man, and if anything happens ill let you know.
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ok well i have no clue what screws to loosen or tighten. do i tighten the screw that is going through the bottom silver things or what?
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OK, you see how the unit is in two 'halves?' the 'half' that has the mounting holes to go to your International Standard disk mounts is kind of a U-shaped piece? Then the caliper 'half' bolts to that. Those two bolts that secure the two 'halves' together are the ones you need to loosen to let the caliper 'float' and recenter itself. Here's a picture:
If I can find the link, I might be able to give you the setup manual off the old RST-Europe web site. Otherwise if you're still confused, I could scan the pages from a copy I have.
If I can find the link, I might be able to give you the setup manual off the old RST-Europe web site. Otherwise if you're still confused, I could scan the pages from a copy I have.
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"Don't argue with stupid people; they will drag you down to their level and then beat you with experience."
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OK mister thanks,,, and if you could find the link or scan the pages i would greatly appreciate that because it does slow me down BUT its not as effective as it was when i first got the bike.
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Originally Posted by Kennethfaria
OK mister thanks,,, and if you could find the link or scan the pages i would greatly appreciate that because it does slow me down BUT its not as effective as it was when i first got the bike.
As I said earlier, you might still be disappointed, though. However, the Formula hubs they're packaged with are quite good. You might think about upgrading to Avids.
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Originally Posted by Mark Twain
"Don't argue with stupid people; they will drag you down to their level and then beat you with experience."
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Originally Posted by revmonkey
what do you ride?
Crap sr suntour fork(repplacing that soon its too soft)
Altus deraileurs
Rst front disk
and somethign called " Radius" back v brake--is it a good company/name
canecreak headset
umm i dont knwo what kind of stem and handle bars they are but they are pretty nice.
Kindshock system in the back
And weinner ( something like that, its made in switzerland) rims.
Yomax Hubs.
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ive loosned the top screw and its much better, but i cant reach the bottom one ill try after the game(go canes)
so would you say i got a pretty good disk brake for a bike under 400 though it wouldnt be good as avids. LOL
Well i suppose when i get the new fork ill have a chance to "fine tune" the disk brake.
so would you say i got a pretty good disk brake for a bike under 400 though it wouldnt be good as avids. LOL
Well i suppose when i get the new fork ill have a chance to "fine tune" the disk brake.
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A long t-handle wrench can get it there - -especially if it's the ball-end kind. Here are the pages from the manual. I compromised between resolution and file size. All were scanned at 200 ppi and then I resampled them down some in PhotoShop to cut down on the file size. You should be able to print e'm off and have them be readable.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
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Originally Posted by Mark Twain
"Don't argue with stupid people; they will drag you down to their level and then beat you with experience."
#18
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ride, it'll go away after you get your pads broken in
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$299.99 at SportChek if anyone wants one...
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why do you think someone is making fun of your bike? And no, if someone was to make fun, its not nice. And i got suntour, and theres nothing wrong... stock presure was too soft but i just pumped them up.
#22
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Holy $300 Full Suspension Batman!!!!
#23
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now in American:
HOLY $270 FULL SUSPENSION BATMAN!!!
HOLY $270 FULL SUSPENSION BATMAN!!!
#24
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it's all in jest, Have fun with the sport