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  1. #1
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    Wheelset time is here

    Hey everybody,

    All the info I can find on the wheelset of my 2002 Trek 4500 is the following:

    Matrix 750 Rims
    Shimano RM40-8 Rear
    Alloy Front Hub
    14G Stainless

    I don't have enough money and I don't think I ride aggressive enough to buy a Mavic Crossmax wheelset. My question is:

    In your humble opinion, would a Mavic Crossroc wheelset be a worthwhile upgrade, compared to my stock wheelset now? The other day on my local trail I wrecked, carving my initials into a massive tree with my stock front wheel. Afterwards, the rim would scrub against the brake pad once every rotation indicating a warped wheel. I took it to the bike shop to have it adjusted out if possible but the wheel still has visible wobble when it's spun. I'm looking at potential stronger wheelsets now. I weigh about 155 lbs. Any suggestions? The Mavic Crossroc UST wheelset at pricepoint ($229.00) is right at my price range.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Jim311's Avatar
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    The crossroc is a good wheelset, but I think you can get a better wheel than that for the price.
    My money pits:

    Cannondale Jekyll 500 with Avid Mechs and Sun DS2 rims with XT disc hubs.

    Cannondale F900 with SRAM XO shifters/derailler, Mavic X3.1 tubeless wheels, Avid Mechs, Race Face Next LP cranks, Time ATAC pedals, SRAM levers.

  3. #3
    Gravity Is Yer Friend dirtbikedude's Avatar
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    So, how often do you plan to take on a tree?

    I would say purchase an inexpensive rim to get you by and save up some money and have a wheel set built for you. If you do decide to go this route I would suggest Chrisking ISO hubs, Mavic 317 rims laced with DT Swiss or Wheel Smith 15g spokes.
    I recomend the 317 rims because they are light but they can handle some abuse. My wife has them on her bike and every now and then I will ride her bike and the rims have held up well. I am pushing 265lbs. So I think 155 should not be a prob.

    Unless you want to go tubless. I have not ridden any tubless wheels yet so some one else who has could answer you on that one.

  4. #4
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    lol I don't plan to compete head on against trees anywhere in the near future. I priced Chris King hubs and the things alone cost 3/4 of the total cost of my bike!! On the other hand that wheelset could be transferred to a newer bike whenever I upgrade.

    If I were to get an "inexpensive rim to get me by", would that mean that my lbs would have to take apart and rebuild my wheel for me? If so, isn't the labor for that kind of job around $60-80?

    Edit: What exactly does ISO/Hayes specific mean?
    Last edited by Ge|atinousFury; 02-10-03 at 10:37 AM.

  5. #5
    Dances with Rocks Dirtgrinder's Avatar
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    ISO means International Standards Organization. Meaning standard mounting I'm assuming.
    I've had a set of Crossrocs on my NRS2 for 2 years now with no problems. You might want to check on which hubs are on them though. Mine came with Formula hubs. The front is fine but the rear Formula hubs suck. The next year after I got mine, they switched to XT hubs. I would ask, or maybe the specs on Pricepoint might even say which hubs are used.
    If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough...

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  6. #6
    Senior Member knobbymojo's Avatar
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    I have had great luck with a little known brand of wheel called equation. They are diamondback's in house brand. Mine are the x16 race, they are almost identical to the mavic crossride (I think thats the one), they are a 32 hole radially laced front and non drive rear with a 3 cross on the drive side. The best part about them is the bearings, they are cartridge style, so they can be replaced. After a year of hard riding the only problem I have had is a few fatigued spokes, which was mostly my fault. They run about $320 for the whole set. The only downside is the spokes are straight pull, so they can be a little difficult to get replacements for, and you can only get them at a diamondback/raleigh dealer. Quality is awesome for the money though.
    I have gone looking for myself. If I should return before I get back, please ask me to wait for myself.

  7. #7
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    Originally posted by Dirtgrinder
    You might want to check on which hubs are on them though. Mine came with Formula hubs.
    Pricepoint states they have "Mavic Cartridge Bearing Hubs". The picture pricepoint uses is the exact same picture that the mavic website has for the 2003 Crossroc wheelset.

  8. #8
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    I was thinking about getting some Crossrocs as well. Nothing I hate more than pinch flats and I think it would be great to be able and run a little bit lower pressures, especially in the winter snow. Tubeless roll a little faster too. Don't Mavic tubeless wheelsets have to be sent back to Mavic though if they are damaged, atleast thats what I remember hearing. I think having your LBS fix/repair them voids the warranty or something like that. (I am not positive about this but I thought when I was looking at them a few months back someone mentioned this, PLEASE correct me if I am wrong I don't want to be misleading.) If that is true you may want to have another spare wheelset laying around incase they ever have to be sent to Mavic and then you wouldn't have anything to ride on . Swing by MTBreview.com, they have a bunch of reviews on the crossmax (too expensive for my blood) and the Crossrocs. I forgot to mention tubeless wheels look extra spiffy .

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    I would like to know if the crossrocs will be as strong or stronger than my current stock Trek 4500 wheelset. Can anyone offer any insight into this?? I posted the specs of the wheelset in the first post.

  10. #10
    Eleventy Billion Posts schnell's Avatar
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    I've gotta recommend notubes.com yet again A simple rim strip will make your wheelset tubeless...and if you use their sealant you can kiss punctures goodbye.




    Still rolling!

  11. #11
    Zippy Engineer Waldo's Avatar
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    Mavic wheels in general are not designed to be servicable at your LBS. It depends on what needs to be done, obviously. One major drawback of tubeless tires is that they require the use of an air compressor to properly seat the tire initially. Not everyone has access to this, and if you have a flat you just put a tube back in. For me (IMHO, obviously) the benefits of a tubeless stystem are not sufficient to outweigh the drawbacks just yet. As was mentioned above, the Equation wheels are a solid bet at a ridiculously low price. Otherwise, Sun Ringle has some killer wheelsets as well. www.sunringle.com

  12. #12
    Senior Member Jim311's Avatar
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    I carry a C02 inflator with me. Quicker and easier to seat the tires.
    My money pits:

    Cannondale Jekyll 500 with Avid Mechs and Sun DS2 rims with XT disc hubs.

    Cannondale F900 with SRAM XO shifters/derailler, Mavic X3.1 tubeless wheels, Avid Mechs, Race Face Next LP cranks, Time ATAC pedals, SRAM levers.

  13. #13
    Dances with Rocks Dirtgrinder's Avatar
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    I've re-seated my tubeless tires with a mini-pump several times with no problem. Of course, flats are not as common with tubeless either. They seem to leak much more slowly than tubes. I noticed my tire losing air last Fall quicker than normal, and when I checked it, there were 11 holes in it. It would still hold enough air to ride for two days. (Kenda Kharissma)
    If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough...

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  14. #14
    Senior Member Jim311's Avatar
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    How do you like the Kharismas?
    My money pits:

    Cannondale Jekyll 500 with Avid Mechs and Sun DS2 rims with XT disc hubs.

    Cannondale F900 with SRAM XO shifters/derailler, Mavic X3.1 tubeless wheels, Avid Mechs, Race Face Next LP cranks, Time ATAC pedals, SRAM levers.

  15. #15
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    Anybody have any thoughts on these wheels?? They're not too expensive and look pretty cool. Shimano seems to back them pretty well, but then again of course they'll back them if they're trying to sell them.

    2003 Shimano WH-M540 Non-Disc Wheelset

    Keep in mind I'll be using V-brakes so I can't go for a disc-specific wheelset here.

    I'm guessing the WH-M535 was last year's model, and on mtbr.com they got pretty good reviews.....the only negative ones were weight issues but I'm looking for strength, not weight savings. I pretty much only do XC riding on the trails around here.....no hucking or freeriding as of yet. They're priced good also. $270 for the wheelset and that's almost exactly my budget. I can go no higher than $300.
    Last edited by Ge|atinousFury; 02-11-03 at 06:45 PM.

  16. #16
    Dances with Rocks Dirtgrinder's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Jim311
    How do you like the Kharismas?
    They are a little harder compound than the Hutchinson Pythons, so they don't corner quite as well, but they are really an all-around good tire. Take a lot of abuse and wear pretty well. Don't cut easily at all. My first few Pythons cut like crazy. I sent two of them to Hutchinson and they sent me two new ones. The new ones were the Tech+ tubeless. They seemed to wear a lot better than the original ones.
    If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough...

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  17. #17
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    what about mavic 517s and lx or xt hubs? I think you can get them built for around $200-250.
    04' Giant xtc2

  18. #18
    Senior Member Jim311's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Dirtgrinder
    They are a little harder compound than the Hutchinson Pythons, so they don't corner quite as well, but they are really an all-around good tire. Take a lot of abuse and wear pretty well. Don't cut easily at all. My first few Pythons cut like crazy. I sent two of them to Hutchinson and they sent me two new ones. The new ones were the Tech+ tubeless. They seemed to wear a lot better than the original ones.

    To the Kharismas roll fast? I want something that corners pretty well, and is fast in the hardpack. But I don't want something REALLY narrow because I ride in loose sand occaisionally.
    My money pits:

    Cannondale Jekyll 500 with Avid Mechs and Sun DS2 rims with XT disc hubs.

    Cannondale F900 with SRAM XO shifters/derailler, Mavic X3.1 tubeless wheels, Avid Mechs, Race Face Next LP cranks, Time ATAC pedals, SRAM levers.

  19. #19
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    Originally posted by Ktulu
    what about mavic 517s and lx or xt hubs? I think you can get them built for around $200-250.
    Would anyone recommend this setup compared to Mavic Crossrocs or the Shimano wheelset I linked to earlier?

  20. #20
    Dances with Rocks Dirtgrinder's Avatar
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    I think they roll pretty fast but don't have a lot to compare them with. They measure 2-1/8" at the widest point. Here's a close-up pic of the tread pattern in case you haven't seen them.
    If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough...

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  21. #21
    Zippy Engineer Waldo's Avatar
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    Gel, I would go with the Shimanos (if you're not interested in the Suns ) We have a guy that comes into our shop, he used to break spokes left and right and his wheels were constantly out of true otherwise. He got the 535's and I don't think we have even had to true them since. They're definitely not light but they do hold up better than most any other wheels I've seen.

  22. #22
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    Originally posted by Waldo
    Gel, I would go with the Shimanos (if you're not interested in the Suns ) We have a guy that comes into our shop, he used to break spokes left and right and his wheels were constantly out of true otherwise. He got the 535's and I don't think we have even had to true them since. They're definitely not light but they do hold up better than most any other wheels I've seen.
    Wow, sounds like a good wheelset. The 540's are supposedly lighter and stronger, too. Thanks for the info Waldo.

  23. #23
    Zippy Engineer Waldo's Avatar
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    You bet. If the 540's are lighter I'd say they'd be a great bet (haven't read through all the new Shimano info we got so I'll take your word for it). Now that I think of it we've got at least 2 other guys riding the 535's with no problems as well.

  24. #24
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    For the 540's the tire size can be 26 x 1.5 to 2.25

    Could I squeeze a Panaracer Fire DH Pro on there (the DH model measures in at 2.3)?? Or are tire size requirements unbreakable rules...

  25. #25
    Zippy Engineer Waldo's Avatar
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    Personally I haven't tried it but I think a buddy was running 2.3's on his set. It's pretty darn close and I would imagine the folks at Shimano are smart enough to realize that someone's probably going to try to push the limits so they give a conservative size range.

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