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  1. #1
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    Cleaning stanchions

    I just had my Rockshox Psylo SL installed on my bike, and man is it a night/day difference over the Judy TT!!! I love it!!!!!!!!! In the manual (and all over the forums) I have seen it stated that the stanchions should be cleaned after every ride. Should I just use a rag and water, or some sort of cleaning solution, or a dry rag or what?? It seems that with a dry rag all I do is smear what's there around.
    2002 Trek 4500
    Rockshox Psylo SL, 2003 Shimano WH-M540 wheelset

  2. #2
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    put drops of oil on the stanchions and pump the forks up and down. This will draw out alot of dirt. Wipe off the dirty oil and repeat until it's pretty clean.

  3. #3
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    Originally posted by Patricia
    put drops of oil on the stanchions and pump the forks up and down. This will draw out alot of dirt. Wipe off the dirty oil and repeat until it's pretty clean.
    Is the oil you're talking about that little red bottle of Rockshox Oil at my LBS that's like $16 a bottle???
    2002 Trek 4500
    Rockshox Psylo SL, 2003 Shimano WH-M540 wheelset

  4. #4
    I ride a REAL Schwinn!
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    I think that the Rockshox oil in the LBS that you are talking about is what acutally goes inside the fork. The oil patricia is talking about would be different. I don't think its necessary to clean the stanchions after every ride. If the fork doesn't have them, get some fork boots like those made by Lizard skins. Also, just check to make sure your seals are still good every once in a while. These two things in combination will keep most of the debris from getting past the seals into the fork. If you do notice stuff building up around the seals or on the stanshions, gently wiping it off with a soft rag will get it clean. Try not to scratch or gouge the stanchions while doing this.


    -Moab
    '00 Schwinn Moab 3 - XTR/XT/Thomson/Rhyno Lites/Skareb Super
    Lemond Nevada City - Almost Stock!

  5. #5
    member Yo MikeOK's Avatar
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    Get a rag and strip it into several 1" X 12" strips. Coat all these with something like Tri-Flo. Don't use WD-40 because it all evaporates. Let these strips dry overnight then every time you need to clean you have some handy, and by using Tri-Flow they will fell pretty dry but still have just enough lube to work just right. Wrap the strip around the stanchion and hold each end, then use a back and forth motion to clean from the seals all the way up. You don't want to leave a coat of wet oil on them as this will just accumulate dust and crud faster.

  6. #6
    Eleventy Billion Posts schnell's Avatar
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    Just my .02, but Lizard Skin fork boots are more trouble than they are worth.

    On my Duke they would attract more dirt than they would block and they fit very poorly. The Psylo is the same fork as the Duke externally, so you may have the same fit problems.

    No harm in trying though...they're pretty cheap.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Bobatin's Avatar
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    It seems that nobody has had a problem with contamination because I have seen no cautions against it but, on aircraft we always use the same oil that is in the strut to wipe down the exposed cylinder. This prevents contaminating the oil inside and deteriorating the seals. Incompatible oil and seals can cause seals hardening and cracking.
    So, if you're in the car, waiting impatiently. . . get over it - you're not that special.
    "Its not what you take when you leave, Its what you leave when you go."
    Some country and western song

  8. #8
    Senior Member Bobatin's Avatar
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    Do:
    Wipe all excess water, mud, and sand from the upper tubes, lower tubes, and crown area with a clean rag or bristle brush (Park makes a great one!).

    Wet a rag, or spray your fork with a light coating of solvent or degreaser, and wipe the crown, top caps, upper tubes, dust seals, and lower legs clean.

    Apply a small amount of fork oil, RedRum, or Teflon-based lubrication to the upper tube area nearest to the dust seals. Cycle the fork a few times to circulate the lubricant. You can even gently pinch the dust seal, nearest to the upper tube, and add some lubrication (mentioned above) to the inside of the dust seal. This will lubricate the foam ring.
    From Rockshox web site
    So, if you're in the car, waiting impatiently. . . get over it - you're not that special.
    "Its not what you take when you leave, Its what you leave when you go."
    Some country and western song

  9. #9
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    After reading that excerpt from the RS website (I shoulda went there first but I didn't think to) I'm going to go out and buy some Teflon-based lubricant at my LBS. Would anyone pay more and go for the RS Redrum Oil, or just go for Tri-Flow?? I think the Redrum is about $4-7 more, but if it's the best thing to use I'd be willing to pay it. Any comments?
    2002 Trek 4500
    Rockshox Psylo SL, 2003 Shimano WH-M540 wheelset

  10. #10
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    K I went and bought the RS Redrum oil........turns out it wasn't as expensive as I had initially thought. Now I just gotta find a syringe or somethin to put it on with a drop at a time....or I'll use the rag method laid down by MikeOK
    2002 Trek 4500
    Rockshox Psylo SL, 2003 Shimano WH-M540 wheelset

  11. #11
    member Yo MikeOK's Avatar
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    Teflon is all good. Unlike WD40, it leaves behind a film of oil, or actually teflon, which does lubricate but is not so bad about collecting dust (it still will a little) Any teflon oil is good, I'm not sure what the redrum costs but tri flow ain't cheap either... The main thing is to keep the seals and stanchions as clean as you can. On my dirtbike, I used to actually lift the seals and run a bead of white lithium grease under them after every race. This helps to collect the dust in the grease (instead of the seals) and it also keeps stiction to a minimum.

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