How Taut should Singlespeed Chain Be?
#1
is slower than you
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: WI
Posts: 1,486
Bikes: Gunnar Sport, Marin Pine Mountain, Gunnar Ruffian, Gunnar Roadie, BMC Fourstroke, Salsa Vaya
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
How Taut should Singlespeed Chain Be?
How taut should my chain be on my singlespeed (I'm using a dedicated ss frame w/ track-style dropouts)? With a little sag it seems to run fine. If I tighten it up, though, there's a small amount of noise and resistance due to the chainline not being perfect.
Do I keep running a little slack in the chain? Or is there a way to improve my chainline?
Do I keep running a little slack in the chain? Or is there a way to improve my chainline?
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: southern oregon
Posts: 2,631
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
What kind of cranks and bb do you have? An adjustable (side to side) bb would be a good thing to have. post a picture.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 335
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Mine has some sag, looking at the chain it appears 98% straight but if you pinch the top and bottom chains together there is about 1/2 inch of sag. I hope that makes sense. I've had some trouble with excess sag, usually with multi speed chains. I now have an Acuchain Kool Freestyle chain with niffty hollow pins, no sag issues.
#4
is slower than you
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: WI
Posts: 1,486
Bikes: Gunnar Sport, Marin Pine Mountain, Gunnar Ruffian, Gunnar Roadie, BMC Fourstroke, Salsa Vaya
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by mcoine
What kind of cranks and bb do you have? An adjustable (side to side) bb would be a good thing to have. post a picture.
Here's a pic:
#5
Still kicking.
You need a little more tension.
__________________
Appreciate the old bikes more than the new.
Appreciate the old bikes more than the new.
#7
is slower than you
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: WI
Posts: 1,486
Bikes: Gunnar Sport, Marin Pine Mountain, Gunnar Ruffian, Gunnar Roadie, BMC Fourstroke, Salsa Vaya
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by KonaRider24
You need a little more tension.
#8
is slower than you
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: WI
Posts: 1,486
Bikes: Gunnar Sport, Marin Pine Mountain, Gunnar Ruffian, Gunnar Roadie, BMC Fourstroke, Salsa Vaya
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by mcoine
whats the hub?
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Parrish, FL
Posts: 7,963
Bikes: Lots
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
First of all, I agree your chain is too loose.
When you backpedal, do you get a tight spot and then a loose spot? That usually occurs if the front chainring isn't perfectly centered.
An old trick is to loosen the chainring bolts a teensy bit, then line up the cranks at the tight spot and then use a rubber mallet and tap the leading edge of the front chainring to help center it. Do this a couple of times until the tight/sloppy is evened out.
Another trick is to tighten wheel cocked over to where the tire hits the chainstay on the drive side, the chain is tight and you tighten the drive side axle nut. Then you straighten the wheel and tighten down the non-drive side.
Also, although very durable ACS freewheels are built with hideously bad tolerances. A tight/loose condition is most likely accentuated by the freewheel.
The only thing to solve that problem is to plunk down $100 for a White Bros.
When you backpedal, do you get a tight spot and then a loose spot? That usually occurs if the front chainring isn't perfectly centered.
An old trick is to loosen the chainring bolts a teensy bit, then line up the cranks at the tight spot and then use a rubber mallet and tap the leading edge of the front chainring to help center it. Do this a couple of times until the tight/sloppy is evened out.
Another trick is to tighten wheel cocked over to where the tire hits the chainstay on the drive side, the chain is tight and you tighten the drive side axle nut. Then you straighten the wheel and tighten down the non-drive side.
Also, although very durable ACS freewheels are built with hideously bad tolerances. A tight/loose condition is most likely accentuated by the freewheel.
The only thing to solve that problem is to plunk down $100 for a White Bros.
__________________
"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming, "WOW, What a Ride!" - unknown
"Your Bike Sucks" - Sky Yaeger
"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming, "WOW, What a Ride!" - unknown
"Your Bike Sucks" - Sky Yaeger
#10
Lost in the Black Hills
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 5,725
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
you're sort of in the same boat as me with 73mm bb in 68mm shell. how bad is chain line do you estimate. if it is not too bad, it would seem to me that you could go in either direction a couple millimeters with spacers.
__________________
Tomac Mountain Bikes | Light-Bikes l Magura USA | Industry Nine | Schwalbe Tires | Caffélatex
Tomac Mountain Bikes | Light-Bikes l Magura USA | Industry Nine | Schwalbe Tires | Caffélatex
#11
is slower than you
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: WI
Posts: 1,486
Bikes: Gunnar Sport, Marin Pine Mountain, Gunnar Ruffian, Gunnar Roadie, BMC Fourstroke, Salsa Vaya
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by a2psyklnut
First of all, I agree your chain is too loose.
When you backpedal, do you get a tight spot and then a loose spot? That usually occurs if the front chainring isn't perfectly centered.
An old trick is to loosen the chainring bolts a teensy bit, then line up the cranks at the tight spot and then use a rubber mallet and tap the leading edge of the front chainring to help center it. Do this a couple of times until the tight/sloppy is evened out.
Another trick is to tighten wheel cocked over to where the tire hits the chainstay on the drive side, the chain is tight and you tighten the drive side axle nut. Then you straighten the wheel and tighten down the non-drive side.
Also, although very durable ACS freewheels are built with hideously bad tolerances. A tight/loose condition is most likely accentuated by the freewheel.
The only thing to solve that problem is to plunk down $100 for a White Bros.
When you backpedal, do you get a tight spot and then a loose spot? That usually occurs if the front chainring isn't perfectly centered.
An old trick is to loosen the chainring bolts a teensy bit, then line up the cranks at the tight spot and then use a rubber mallet and tap the leading edge of the front chainring to help center it. Do this a couple of times until the tight/sloppy is evened out.
Another trick is to tighten wheel cocked over to where the tire hits the chainstay on the drive side, the chain is tight and you tighten the drive side axle nut. Then you straighten the wheel and tighten down the non-drive side.
Also, although very durable ACS freewheels are built with hideously bad tolerances. A tight/loose condition is most likely accentuated by the freewheel.
The only thing to solve that problem is to plunk down $100 for a White Bros.
The problem seems to be that the chainline is too far off. The rear chainline measurement is about 3-4mm outside the front chainline measurement---enough so that, when taut, the chain travels onto the cog and front ring at such an angle that there is significant resistance/rubbing.
So what I would have to do is somehow move the rear cog inward or move the front chainring outward a few mm.
As for the quality of the ACS freewheel, I just built this bike up and had never ridden singlespeed before, so I wanted to try a couple different gearing combinations to see what I prefer. ACS was a cheaper way to do that than an ENO, but I'll be making the upgrade eventually.
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: southern oregon
Posts: 2,631
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Is the chainring bolted to the spider?.. bolt the chainring on the outside of the spider and get rid of the guard.