Need a good place to get a good price on MB wheels.
 

OK, everywhere I go, they charge $40 or MORE for this little metal circle shaped object, which I think is unfair to price it like that, and I am not an extreme Mountain biker, I only go 40 MPH max in about 3 or less seconds, and putting it against extreme MB'ers, I got nothing like them. And I also need to know, Since my rear gear railer keeps breaking (broke 5 bikes in less than 1 year due to this) should I put a bash guard on it while this bike is still good, or get a whole new rear railer that guarantees not to break so easily?

Look around online. I've seen bashguards for $24 recently. Might as well make yourself a chainstay guard too. Hope that helps since I'm not exactly sure what your aiming at.

LINGO!?!?!?!?!

huh? I don't really understand what that means....

your words and phrases used to describe bike parts is spoken in ADEish

= ADEish

ok, i'm not trying to be a dick, i'm just trying to undertstand you

little metal circle shaped object

http://images.rei.com/media/698203Prd.jpg

brake rotor?

or

http://www.raceface.com/components/c...ing-Medium.jpg

bash guard?

How so? I'm looking for a wheel that is 26 inches and need one for a good price. I am also wondering since I do a little mountain biking, not like the real pro's so I don't want to spend so much money on super hi quality stuff if I don't need it considering that they cost so much more. And since I do a little mountain biking and my bikes break a lot because of the gear thing next to the back tire breaks, should I put a bash guard on it, and if I do, will it really guarantee that it will make the gear shifting thing work longer to not break so easily, or should I just upgrade the gear thing all together to a pro-quality gear thing?

first off $40 dollars for awheelis not top of the line,thats actually cheap

and secondly if you break rear derailleurs, a bash guard won't help with that problem bashguards help protect your chain and chainring and help keep your chain on the chain ring.

first off, how do you break so many rear deraileurs (gear thing next to the back tire) , majority of broken rear derailleurs is from blunt force

Well, sometime (most of the time) at the bottom of the railer will snag onto a spoke and the spoke will pull the bottom of the railer and break it right off. This only happens then the rear railer gets hit and is bent a little. Thats why I asked about the bash guard because I see them on other bikes right above the gear railer on the back. its like a U shape. And I thought the wheel may be pro stuff since the guy said its stronger than Titanium and lighter than aluminum (close to that-the titanium part I know is what he said).

bash guard goes on your crank (the thingy with arms with pedals sticking off of them), if you bent the derailleur a little, usually the derailleur hanger is bent, thats the thing the rear shifter thingy mounts to, and can be starightened, before causing damage.

No not the front bash guard, The REAR! Heres a ling to a picture of it. Its the one named derailer guard
www.lexcobike.com/kdderail.htm
I may be a newbie to this site, but I know bike terms and the names of parts so speak freely of names of things instead of discription. I was just trying to help you understand what I was saying better.

go for it,

and if you knew bike terms i wouldn't have had sucha hard time uderstanding what you were trying to say, use part names not "the thingy"

"my rear gear railer"

not gonna lie that one makes me laugh

It a little sarcasm. This thread really isn't supposed to revolve around the guard anyway, that's as a side subject, As the title of this tread sates, I need a good price for a wheel to go on my bike. A 26inch. Lets forget the topic about the guard and focus on the main reason for now, I can deal without it for now. Whether $40 is cheep to you or not, doesn't matter for me. I think that's hi for a wheel. I just want a new 26inch wheel. That's all.

Here is what you need to do:

1) Check your derailleur hanger. If it appears bent, I would suggest taking it to a shop to straighten it.

2) But a "dork disc" or "pie plate". It's the plastic "ring" that goes between your rear wheel's spokes and your largest cog. They'll be like $7 at your local bike shop (lbs)

3) When you install your deraiileur make sure you low limit screw is set correctly. If you are perplexed by this, take it to you lbs.

I set those screws often due to this problem. I used to have a treadmill so I could test things before I ride, but I was forced to put it elsewhere out of the garosh. And the idea of the dork disk that you speak of is fine and dandy, but I would much more prefer to worry about that after I get a wheel to even make that an issue.

You're not going to find a rear wheel online any much cheaper than $40. My shop sells the cheapest rear wheel for like $45 or so...

Well, if I'm going to spend that much, then how do I know I'm getting a good wheel? What specs and characteristics should I look for and be aware of? (ex: material, weight, spokes-just a thought-)

a new wheel for $40 will be very cheap, which means it will be heavy, and not very strong, which means over time it will go out of true and start rubbing your brakes and need re-truing a lot.

You might be able to get a cheaper wheel used, i got a Matrix 550 for $11 on ebay, with the cassette (rear gears) it still runs great, kinda heavy but for less than $20 i was happy.

the derailler guard only protects the derailler from getting hit with stuff, and it would take a heck of a hit to knock it into the spokes. If the derailler is not adjusted right, or just malfunctions on its own the guard won't keep it from going into the spokes, i've only seen the guards on cheaper bikes in stores, never seen the guards for sale themselves, ive never really looked though.

as far as what to look for in a wheel, i don't know that much about wheels, but what i look for is: aluminum rim, machined braking surface (makes it stop better, until the surface rubs off), wear line (tells you when you've worn the rim down too much), and black - i love black rims, oh and seamless, i had a cheap bike that advertised "aluminum wheels" but after a few miles i noticed a "tick tick tick" noise when braking and discovered the wheels had a seam that rubbed the brakes, it didn't make the bike perform any worse, but it annoyed me.

if your derailleur is getting hung up in your rear spokes...you have something wrong with your bike.

If you have to install a pie plate to keep it out of your rim, then you need to have your bike looked at and possibly repaired.

Sounds like either your hanger is bent, or you dont know what you're doing when you adjust your derailleur.

if all you want is a 26" wheel for cheap, go to second hand store, or a flea market, or a good will and find an old Murray or Huffy or what ever it may be, and buy the whole bike for $10 and you'll have a plethora of "decent priced" parts. or find yourself that all wheel drive bike and get rid of problem bike #1

OK OK Blazinall91, I get you little jokes but as I said it was sarcasm. Plus I'm on the chat line and instead of typing the whole word I got used to making the word shorter. railer, Derailleur either way that's not the point. The one bike shop said they had a wheel for $40 and told me it was stronger than titanium. Does that seem to be true?

Absolutely not. I read your post up a bit about being stronger than titanium and lighter than aluminum. That's an absurd claim for anyone to make. What were they claiming it was made of? Maybe you could get a brand/model of the wheel or even the particular rim, spokes, and hub. $40 for a wheel is very inexpensive for a wheel. It may seem like alot to you, but it really is cheap. Blazinall was not being sarcastic about getting a wheel off an old bike. That's about as cheap as it gets if that's what you're looking for.