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  1. #1
    Nighttime Rider
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    Mixing calipers and rotors (disks) brands ok?

    Can you change out rotors (disks) from different brands like using a Hays disk with an Avid caliper?

    CE

  2. #2
    ÖöÖöÖöÖöÖö Dannihilator's Avatar
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    It's possible. I just don't like doing that. For me, I tend to like using the rotors that come with the calipers.
    Strike like an eagle and sacrifice the dove.
    Words and Stuff.

  3. #3
    Lost in the Black Hills mx_599's Avatar
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    similar to Mr Smashy's comment, many people do it. for the most part, just make sure nothing is hitting funny and it will be fine. just measure before you buy, but most of the rotors are the same size.

  4. #4
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    Depends. Some brakes have a thinner brake track, so matching that with a brake that has a thicker one, will unevenly wear the pads.

  5. #5
    Former Member
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    I've never noticed any ill effects. Some brakes have even seemed to work better with someone else's rotors.

    Some though, particularly in the DH set, don't think mixing parts not designed for each other is a great idea.

  6. #6
    Senior Member nmn25's Avatar
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    Most (all common brand) disk rotors are 2mm thick steel, so as long as the diameter is matching the rotor, you are golden. On my dj bike, I run avid wave rotors w/ avid adapters and hayes 9 calipers/levers. On my DH bike, I run juicy 7 calippers/adapters and hayes v8 rotors (I find them better than the avid rotors because you dont get the squealing or the pulsing effect, thas why the changed to the g2 cs rotor in 07).

    Go wild (worst case scenario, you change back rotors).
    If it works...... do it!

    Quote Originally Posted by AfterThisNap
    tiny and sessy

  7. #7
    Obeying Gravity
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    Quote Originally Posted by nmn25
    Most (all common brand) disk rotors are 2mm thick steel, so as long as the diameter is matching the rotor, you are golden.
    I don't know where you get your information from but that is complete bull ****. Just cause the rotor diameter is the same, doesn't mean you can swap the rotors. You have to look at how wide the brake track (blade) is. For example if you tried to run BB7's on the new XTR rotors, the pad will sweep across the arms. So unless you want to bevel each pad you run, you can't do it. Also, you can't run Juicy Ultiamtes w/ XTR rotors. Also, you can't run Ultimates w/ Hope floating rotors. It's possible but it involves grinding away some of the pad and possible the caliper.

  8. #8
    later free_pizza's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattP.
    I don't know where you get your information from but that is complete bull ****.
    huh? if the rotor is the same diameter and the same thickness, then why is that complete bull#$#%?

  9. #9
    Flatland hack Flak's Avatar
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    I dont understand either.

    If its 2mm, it's 2mm. I dont understand how it could not work?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by free_pizza
    huh? if the rotor is the same diameter and the same thickness, then why is that complete bull#$#%?
    Maybe you learn better w/ pictures.


    See that little circluar "nut"? That combines the alu carrier w/ the steel braking track? If you were to put, say a BB7 caliper w/ this rotor, everytime the "nut" passed the pad, it would hit it. Avids use a wider (not thicker, still 2mm) braking track than Hope does. So you could grind away part of the pads and possibly the rotor body so it wouldn't come in contact with the "nut". Same goes w/ the new XTR rotors; some caliper hit the spider arms.

    Understand yet?

  11. #11
    Flatland hack Flak's Avatar
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    Ahh i see your point now. You didn't have to be an incredible dick about it though.

  12. #12
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    To illustrate my point further. Photo from Aquaholic @ mtbr.com

    Notice how the brake tracks are different widths?

  13. #13
    Lost in the Black Hills mx_599's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flak
    Ahh i see your point now. You didn't have to be an incredible dick about it though.
    errmmm....

    but i think most of the time you can get away with it. especially if the pad edge is not hitting the other part of the rotor at 90 degrees. since the example above is angled, it will "ease" into the interpad gap.
    Last edited by mx_599; 02-16-07 at 05:37 PM.

  14. #14
    one less horse cryptid01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mx_599
    You have the weirdest smileys - this one looks like he's picking his bellybutton.

    MattP, if I undersand you correctly, a more common term for what you're referring to is the "swept area" of the rotor.

  15. #15
    Throw the stick!!!! LowCel's Avatar
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    I've gotten pretty lucky so far. I use Magura Martas (and marta sl's) with magura rotors, avid rotors, and I just ordered some formula rotors. So far so good.....
    I may be fat but I'm slow enough to make up for it.

  16. #16
    Taking "s" outta "Fast" AfterThisNap's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LowCel
    I've gotten pretty lucky so far. I use Magura Martas (and marta sl's) with magura rotors, avid rotors, and I just ordered some formula rotors. So far so good.....
    No raceday aluminum rotors?


    59 grams each. Roughly a 1/4 lb weight saved, and most importantly, it can by dyed blingy colors I'd never do it, but the reviews seem to be positive.
    http://archive.mtbr.com/16/0EF87415.php
    Last edited by AfterThisNap; 02-16-07 at 06:36 PM.
    Carries suspicious allegiance to Brooklyn Machine Works.

  17. #17
    Throw the stick!!!! LowCel's Avatar
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    Nope, I have to many wheelsets. If I were just going to buy them for my race wheelsets I would have to buy six rotors. Plus, I'm not sure if they problem has been taken care of yet or not but there was a problem with overheating on long downhills. We have a lot of those in WV.
    I may be fat but I'm slow enough to make up for it.

  18. #18
    Taking "s" outta "Fast" AfterThisNap's Avatar
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    I remember reading that alu-rotors coated with titanium nitride were OK for longer (XCish) downhills, and prevented the galling found in aniodized or uncoated rotors. I'm sure the effect was minimal after wearing in though.

    I've handled the 07 XTR rotors. Not quite as light but pretty feathery for a disk. Steel contact surface too.
    Carries suspicious allegiance to Brooklyn Machine Works.

  19. #19
    Throw the stick!!!! LowCel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AfterThisNap
    I remember reading that alu-rotors coated with titanium nitride were OK for longer (XCish) downhills, and prevented the galling found in aniodized or uncoated rotors. I'm sure the effect was minimal after wearing in though.

    I've handled the 07 XTR rotors. Not quite as light but pretty feathery for a disk. Steel contact surface too.
    Hope their rotors are better than the 07 brakes. I know two people who ride / race the 07 xtr group. They love the shifting but absolutely hate the brakes.
    I may be fat but I'm slow enough to make up for it.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by gastro
    MattP, if I undersand you correctly, a more common term for what you're referring to is the "swept area" of the rotor.
    Yes! That would be it

  21. #21
    Senior Member nmn25's Avatar
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    It is definately not complete bs. As said before, I run v8 rotors and juicy calipers, and polygone rotors w/ nine calipers (which relates back to what he was saying, not about hope/xtr...). Also, I said the MAJOR ones. I think we can agree that 7s and nines are more common than hope 6s and xtrs. Lastly, even if the swept area doesn't match, it will still work, it just affects the pad wear area. I ran hope mono m4 rotors on juicy calipers and it worked fine. The rivets clear the caliper and there was only a little corner of my pad that did not recieve any wear. Everything was fine.

    All this being said, I am in no way claiming to know more than anybody else and am up for learning new things. I was going on personal experience. Just try and pad those comment ok?
    If it works...... do it!

    Quote Originally Posted by AfterThisNap
    tiny and sessy

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