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Old 02-18-07, 04:42 AM   #1
uphillbiker
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Reducing Weight on Fat Bikes

Let's make a light weight bike.

Please keep lame posts to a minimum.

Last edited by uphillbiker; 02-20-07 at 04:00 PM.
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Old 02-18-07, 05:45 AM   #2
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Seat And seat post's are generally an inexpensive place to drop weight. A thomson seat post and Selle SLR saddle can drop a pound or better from stock, mid range to lower lever bikes.

That hundred dollars a pound rule of thumb is on the inexspensive side of things, but the seatpost and seat can deliver this kind of results if you shop wisely. A realistic rule of thumb is more like 10 to 15 dollars an ounce.

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Old 02-18-07, 07:14 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uphillbiker
I’ve heard that in general you have to spend $100 per pound to remove weight, but am hoping to get a better “rule” from your posts on this thread.
You can get by with that rule for a while but eventually it gets closer to $1 (or more) a gram to remove weight. That is when it starts getting painful. I would love to be able to drop a pound off of my bike for $100. However, at this point I believe I need to spend around $400 - $500 to take another pound off of it.
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Old 02-18-07, 07:22 AM   #4
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Rotational weight is where you would notice the biggest difference. So, go for a lighter wheelset, and perhaps lighter tires. My stock road bike is light enough, compared to my old, overweight steel mtn.bike, but I did invest in a better wheelset and lighter tires on the mtn.bike and could really feel the difference. Unfortunately, the tires weren't knobby enough for the type of riding around here, so went back to tires that were knobbier (& heavier)-could feel the difference first ride-so it was either slide around on the trails or put up with a bit more weight (guess which won).
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Old 02-18-07, 07:22 AM   #5
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CF or Scandium handlebars and seat posts - both @ $70 each, Scandium/Ti BB @100... Look at scandium parts & pieces - usually a good price & great weight savings.
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Old 02-18-07, 07:25 AM   #6
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Okay, here is a short list.

Grips - Titec Pork rinds. $10, save up to 1/4 pound
Tires - Find out what locals are riding. You can easily save up to 1/2 pound or more just by going to some lighter tires.
Wheels - I just spent $450 on a set of custom made Mike Garcia wheels. Very light and durable (depending on the build you go with). You will probably save at least 1 1/2 pounds over a set of cheap OEM wheels.
Tubes - Stan's no tubes. Debatable of course, but my number one choice.
Carbon bar - There are a lot more people that have "heard" of them breaking than have broken them.
Pedals - What are you running? Eggbeaters are awesome and pretty light for a reasonable price.
Crankset - You can drop a ton of weight there. Just depends on what you want to spend.
Bottom Bracket - Another place you can easily lose 1/4 pound or more for less than $100. I use an American Classic ISIS. Very light and has easily replaceable bearings.
Fork - Depending on what you have you can easily lose a pound there as well.
Cassette - If you have a low range cassette (or a sram) you can drop 1/4 pound by going xtr.

There are a lot of ways to lose weight. Just remember two rules. Being a weight weenie is expensive. It is much cheaper and easier to lose weight off of the body (when possible). Unfortunately if you weigh 150 pounds and are taller than 5' 9" you probably don't have a lot of weight to lose. Just keep in mind though, if you haven't been riding long you shouldn't start going for a light bike just yet. You will gain more speed by riding a couple of times a week right now than you will by lightening up your bike. Also, you will be breaking parts while you are re-learning the ins and outs. It's better to break the cheaper parts and then replace them with the more expensive parts.
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Old 02-18-07, 09:48 AM   #7
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Yeah, I lean more toward the $1 per gram theory.

If you're running LX level componentry, you can save quite a bit of weight, but if you up around XT/X.9 level stuff...it's gonna be expensive to save weight.

I spent $500 on a set of wheels that will effectively save me around $500g.

I will however save another 300g on a set of tires and tubes that cost me only $50.

I could save 100g on a handlebar that would cost me $90.

I'm already basically at the XT level and looking at the above info...I'd say ~ $1 per gram. (~450g per lb)
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Old 02-18-07, 04:07 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chelboed
Yeah, I lean more toward the $1 per gram theory.

If you're running LX level componentry, you can save quite a bit of weight, but if you up around XT/X.9 level stuff...it's gonna be expensive to save weight.

I spent $500 on a set of wheels that will effectively save me around $500g.

I will however save another 300g on a set of tires and tubes that cost me only $50.

I could save 100g on a handlebar that would cost me $90.

I'm already basically at the XT level and looking at the above info...I'd say ~ $1 per gram. (~450g per lb)
Factoid : the weight of a US dollar bill is 1 gram. 454 grams per pound. I just picked up a Evolve XC seatpost and it weighs a good amount less than my stock seatpost. 06 XTR gear is going cheaply right now due to the redesign. The crankset is scary light.
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Old 02-18-07, 05:07 PM   #9
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"Scary" being the right word, sir. (hehee)

But lets say you own a RF Evolve post. $90 would get you U.S.E. alien aluminum post saving 85g. In that respect, the $1 per gram theory still works out.

I actually gained weight when I sold my Raceface Evolve XC post and bought a Thomson Elite Layback.

I spent twice as much for the Thomson, yet gained around 15g.

I saw a need in durability vs. light weight. My RF evolve creaked at the joints. I greased them up bunch too. I just couldn't deal with it. The added 15g wasn't noticeable, but the lack of squeaks is wonderful. It did however make a dent in the pocket book.

I'm not disputing tempest, just reinforcing my theory.
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Old 02-18-07, 05:38 PM   #10
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I'm trying to reduce the weight of a fat rider Wheels are the thing that will lighten it up the most--IMHO.
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Old 02-18-07, 05:40 PM   #11
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Carbon stuff doesn't have a tendency to crack, if made right (oops, was that a one line reply?).
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Old 02-18-07, 06:34 PM   #12
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....wheels.
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Old 02-18-07, 06:39 PM   #13
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Quote:
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....wheels.
+1

(oh nooooooos - these one-line answers are against the OP's wishes.)
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Old 02-18-07, 07:12 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by santiago
+1

(oh nooooooos - these one-line answers are against the OP's wishes.)
I thought one word post were fine.
I hate silly rules.
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Old 02-18-07, 07:16 PM   #15
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...new rubber.
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Old 02-18-07, 07:21 PM   #16
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Does anyone want to chat about why expensive derailleurs have longer lives that cheap ones?
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Old 02-18-07, 07:23 PM   #17
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Sounds like it could be a good discussion, lets hear your views on the subject good sir.
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Old 02-18-07, 07:26 PM   #18
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Well I think the ones that cost the most must be the best,right? I mean they are lighter and more better than a cheap one.
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Old 02-18-07, 07:26 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R. Danneskjöld
Does anyone want to chat about why expensive derailleurs have longer lives that cheap ones?
The OP requested "no chatting". Although I think pointing out that rule qualifies as chatting.
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Old 02-18-07, 07:28 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by santiago
The OP requested "no chatting". Although I think pointing out that rule qualifies as chatting.
You're chatting again.....
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Old 02-18-07, 07:29 PM   #21
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Hey guys, I got new handlebars today and I'm getting new cranks next weekend.

Also, I sold my Hoffman frame today.
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Old 02-18-07, 07:30 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by mtnbiker66
You're chatting again.....
Yeah, well the fish in my sig got cut off so we're both disappointed.
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Old 02-18-07, 07:31 PM   #23
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You can replace it with the the frame i'm using instead of the Hoffman:
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Old 02-18-07, 07:37 PM   #24
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Enough
with
the
chatting. (4 lines...)
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Old 02-18-07, 07:38 PM   #25
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wethepeople - do you or know anyone that has a front bmx wheel they're willing to let go of for cheap. a girl in my mountain bike club had her wheel smashed by a car while she was at work. The bike is c. 1987 so apparently it takes a 14mm axle.

Thanks
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