Racing, MTBs, Efficiency, and Speed
06-18-07, 03:53 PM
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Racing, MTBs, Efficiency, and Speed
I'm looking for a sort of compromise between a racing and mountain bike. I have several questions:
1) Is it necessary to have larger than 26" tires on your mountain bike in order to achieve higher speeds?
2) Can you make a nearly quantitative measurement representing the difference in efficiency between a mountain and racing bike (like lance's).
3) What are the best options for a hybrid; how do you change your mountain bikes to more closely emulate the speed and efficiency of racing bikes while also maintaining the durability (especially in the tires) qualities of most mountain bikes?
4) For full suspension MTBs: Can you just tighten up the back shocks to maintain efficiency, or will there still be a significant deviation from a hard-tail counterpart?
Thanks for your replies.
1) Is it necessary to have larger than 26" tires on your mountain bike in order to achieve higher speeds?
2) Can you make a nearly quantitative measurement representing the difference in efficiency between a mountain and racing bike (like lance's).
3) What are the best options for a hybrid; how do you change your mountain bikes to more closely emulate the speed and efficiency of racing bikes while also maintaining the durability (especially in the tires) qualities of most mountain bikes?
4) For full suspension MTBs: Can you just tighten up the back shocks to maintain efficiency, or will there still be a significant deviation from a hard-tail counterpart?
Thanks for your replies.
06-18-07, 05:02 PM
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Do you want to ride off-road, or just have a tough bike for the streets?, you might look at a 29er rigid with street tires, still not sure what you are trying to accomplish. You can lock out the rear on most fs and alot of the better bikes you can lock out front and rear, are you a roadie or a dirt rider? Maybe cyclecross is more your thing.
06-18-07, 05:47 PM
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Road bikes suck on the trail, and mountain bikes suck on the road, and hybrid bikes suck everywhere.
It sounds like you need a cyclocross bike.
It sounds like you need a cyclocross bike.
06-18-07, 06:02 PM
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I've had my Rockhopper with it's two inch knobbies on the local 12 mile paved rail trail and it does suck pretty bad. An hour and a half for the round trip and I think I stretched a tendon on the back side of my knee.
Made me think about maybe getting another entire wheelset for pavement. Would only take a couple minutes to swap between off road and road. Maybe not perfect but good enough for me.
I was curious if anybody else does this or if everybody thinks it's a dumb idea.
Made me think about maybe getting another entire wheelset for pavement. Would only take a couple minutes to swap between off road and road. Maybe not perfect but good enough for me.
I was curious if anybody else does this or if everybody thinks it's a dumb idea.
06-18-07, 07:37 PM
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I'm with Thomas here, I don't know what you're ultimately going after. Are you looking for something to ride off road, on road, both? Is there a limit to the amount you'd like to spend? By "racing bike" do you mean a road bike with drop bars?
Originally Posted by steganographer
I'm looking for a sort of compromise between a racing and mountain bike. I have several questions:
1) Is it necessary to have larger than 26" tires on your mountain bike in order to achieve higher speeds?For the road or trail? Higher speed than what?
2) Can you make a nearly quantitative measurement representing the difference in efficiency between a mountain and racing bike (like lance's).No. But I'm sure someone is willing/able to.
3) What are the best options for a hybrid; how do you change your mountain bikes to more closely emulate the speed and efficiency of racing bikes while also maintaining the durability (especially in the tires) qualities of most mountain bikes?I don't. I have a seperate road and mtb (although this new this year for me, I've been on a hard tail until this year too).
4) For full suspension MTBs: Can you just tighten up the back shocks to maintain efficiency, or will there still be a significant deviation from a hard-tail counterpart?There are lockouts for each side of the bike. These work fairly well and return efficiency to the bike. Most rears are now designed such that, while seated, there is little pedal bob. But the lockouts are still there for standing and mashing.
Thanks for your replies.Hopefully this is at least a little helpful.
1) Is it necessary to have larger than 26" tires on your mountain bike in order to achieve higher speeds?For the road or trail? Higher speed than what?
2) Can you make a nearly quantitative measurement representing the difference in efficiency between a mountain and racing bike (like lance's).No. But I'm sure someone is willing/able to.
3) What are the best options for a hybrid; how do you change your mountain bikes to more closely emulate the speed and efficiency of racing bikes while also maintaining the durability (especially in the tires) qualities of most mountain bikes?I don't. I have a seperate road and mtb (although this new this year for me, I've been on a hard tail until this year too).
4) For full suspension MTBs: Can you just tighten up the back shocks to maintain efficiency, or will there still be a significant deviation from a hard-tail counterpart?There are lockouts for each side of the bike. These work fairly well and return efficiency to the bike. Most rears are now designed such that, while seated, there is little pedal bob. But the lockouts are still there for standing and mashing.
Thanks for your replies.Hopefully this is at least a little helpful.
06-18-07, 09:32 PM
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Racing, MTBs, Efficiency, and Speed Reply to Thread
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Will the administrator please upgrade or fix vbulletin.
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06-19-07, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by mcoine
Ellsworth is so 2005.
