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Thread: Pedal Clearence

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    Senior Member Tra!l !'s Avatar
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    Pedal Clearence

    Hello. I have a Trek 4500 and it has been a great bike. I'm getting clipless pedals for it soon and new red grips. The only problem I have had with it has been low pedal clearence. I've taken my kick stand off so I know its not that. Over roots and log pyramids, the pedals sometimes smack the roots. It throws you off balence. I can hold the pedals parallel to the ground and their is know problem. But up rooty hills, it gets annoying. What can I do to fix this.
    (08o)==\X/==(o80) VW GTI.

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    Mad Furyan Quick_Torch C5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tra!l !
    What can I do to fix this.
    Shorter cranks(165, 170mm) and smaller pedals, like CB eggbeaters.
    Why is going slower harder?

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    Te mortuo heres tibi sim? scrublover's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quick_Torch C5
    Shorter cranks(165, 170mm) and smaller pedals, like CB eggbeaters.
    Learning to pedal more smoothly, and timing pedal strokes better will do him more good than buying new parts.

    Ride more. As the saying goes, practice makes perfect, right?
    I believe the clouds in my coffee more than the weatherman on t.v.

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    Senior Member MudPie's Avatar
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    I've been riding for about seven years, and I still manage to whack my pedals every now and then. Technique, timing, practice will help reduce the incidents, but I don't think one can ever eliminate the occasional whack. It's part of the game.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tra!l !
    Hello. I have a Trek 4500 and it has been a great bike. I'm getting clipless pedals for it soon and new red grips. The only problem I have had with it has been low pedal clearence. I've taken my kick stand off so I know its not that. Over roots and log pyramids, the pedals sometimes smack the roots. It throws you off balence. I can hold the pedals parallel to the ground and their is know problem. But up rooty hills, it gets annoying. What can I do to fix this.
    Not much...you need a frame with a higher bottom bracket...My BB height is over 15" and I still hit things and am thinking of going to 16" with a longer fork

    Don't use shorter cranks...you'll have to work much harder and only pick up a few cm in clearance

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    Quote Originally Posted by Quick_Torch C5
    Shorter cranks(165, 170mm)

    Quote Originally Posted by jm01
    Not much...you need a frame with a higher bottom bracket...My BB height is over 15" and I still hit things and am thinking of going to 16" with a longer fork

    This is some of the worst advice I've seen on here in a while.

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    Wood Licker Maelstrom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete Fagerlin
    Ride more.
    100% agree. Some people come into riding thining cadence is king. In reality its ALSO timing. Timing your stroke to the trail you can make it up some rough stuff. This is a learned trait. To fix it by purchasing new equipment which might affect other parts of your riding isn't the smartest thing to do. It would "work"...but it wouldn't make you a better rider.

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    Type 1 Racer rydaddy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jm01
    My BB height is over 15" and I still hit things and am thinking of going to 16" with a longer fork
    Damn, 15"?!?

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    Senior Member DoYlE_RiD3r's Avatar
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    Maybe you could put your pedal at a neutral zone, that's how I call it when both your pedals are parallel to the ground...

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    Wood Licker Maelstrom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoYlE_RiD3r
    Maybe you could put your pedal at a neutral zone, that's how I call it when both your pedals are parallel to the ground...
    How do you pedal uphill on roots with your pedals level?...

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    Quote Originally Posted by rydaddy
    Damn, 15"?!?
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Quote Originally Posted by mcoine
    This is some of the worst advice I've seen on here in a while.
    How come?...with 15" BB height, I'm still hitting logs, rocks, and sides of hills with my peddles when I'm in the tight singletrack on the home trails...cadence and riding skills have noyhing to do with this...hopping over a too big a log on a steep descent can still make contact

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    Wood Licker Maelstrom's Avatar
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    PRobably because if you watch the better xc guys they can have a lower bb height and not hit anything. While what you say isn't wrong, you aren't becoming a better rider because of it.

    And trust me, I know your area fairly well, and if you think you have problems out there you should really come out west. From your description it sounds like you wouldn't even be able to pedal. I used to think like you (god I wanted a tall bike) until I hooked up with some good riders who floated the entire section I was stuck in.

    and during dh I would say the forces are different, especially on a dually. Taking turns quickly, landing a jump and other variable can create a lot of force pushing the bike down. Quite a bit different then pedalling.

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    You don't want a higher bb and you probably don't want shorter crankarms, some DH riders excluded.

    You do want to practice more, because it can be done. Believe.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete Fagerlin
    Cadence and riding skills have everything to do with it.
    Hmmmm...I'm leading two group rides this weekend...one group has a rider who used to race with (not for) the Cdn mtb team...another with a team that's training for the TransRockies in August...

    I'll report back on Tuesday as to how we do...perhaps I can lead from the back and watch how they avoid the occassional peddle contact

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    Should be riding Bike Lover's Avatar
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    I have to agree with the timing recommendation. There are times I'll level out my pedals before an obstacle, ratchet one pedal back (if the obstacle is on one side), or some sort of combination. It may be extremely brief but if you do it right, you'll clear.
    Regret lasts longer than pain
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    Wood Licker Maelstrom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jm01
    Hmmmm...I'm leading two group rides this weekend...one group has a rider who used to race with (not for) the Cdn mtb team...another with a team that's training for the TransRockies in August...

    I'll report back on Tuesday as to how we do...perhaps I can lead from the back and watch how they avoid the occassional peddle contact
    Man the trans is brutal. My uncle in law has been riding and building trails out here for 20 some odd years. He got back and said that was the first time he ever bonked (he won the first xfc thing) He bonked on day 5 or 6. Definately nuts.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Maelstrom
    Man the trans is brutal. My uncle in law has been riding and building trails out here for 20 some odd years. He got back and said that was the first time he ever bonked (he won the first xfc thing) He bonked on day 5 or 6. Definately nuts.
    they should do well...they came in the top 5 in last week's 24 hour summer solstice here, even after losing a team member after the 3'rd lap

    their training includes pedalling up Blue Mountain in Collingwood 4X/day

    could be a fun day
    Last edited by jm01; 06-28-07 at 12:10 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete Fagerlin
    Occasional pedal smacks are part of mountain biking.
    that's all I was trying to say...now if I can figure out a way from stopping the pins on my wellgo flats from tearing up my leg...

  20. #20
    DNPAIMFB pinkrobe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jm01
    Ellsworth Id only has a 13" BB height. JustsayinknowwhatImsayin'?
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    Quote Originally Posted by pinkrobe
    Ellsworth Id only has a 13" BB height. JustsayinknowwhatImsayin'?
    Welcome to the weird world of Ellsworth

    The Id BB height spec'd out at 13.75"

    Bottom Bracket Height: 13.75

    http://shop.ellsworthbikes.com/bikes/id/index.cfm

    but apparently this is the sagged height (makes no sense), and the Id is designed for 4" (Cali version), 5", and 6" rear travel...depends on the shock stroke...1.75", 2.0", or 2.25"

    Mine is a 6" (7.875" X 2.25") resulting in an unsagged BB height of just over 15"...proof is in the standover...I now sing soprano in our church choir

  22. #22
    Senior Member Tra!l !'s Avatar
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    I guess I do need to work on timing. I had a guy coming the other way yesterday on a very rooty, and up hill for him area, and he cut through it like a knife through butter. Thanks alot guys.
    (08o)==\X/==(o80) VW GTI.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tra!l !
    I guess I do need to work on timing. I had a guy coming the other way yesterday on a very rooty, and up hill for him area, and he cut through it like a knife through butter. Thanks alot guys.
    It's much easier on a hardtail...with a little practice and a dialed in drive train, you can make a bike dance through the crap and corruption

    happy trails

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    There is nothing wrong with your bike, learn to pick the easiest path through is also a major aspect.

    It's only to blame on your bike if you are taking the exact same path through as everyone else and you are grinding your chainring, not your pedals.

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    Mad Furyan Quick_Torch C5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mcoine
    This is some of the worst advice I've seen on here in a while.


    ummm...this was a joke sorry for the confusion...geesh
    Last edited by Quick_Torch C5; 06-28-07 at 10:58 PM.
    Why is going slower harder?

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