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Old 06-27-07, 10:03 PM   #1
Tra!l !
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Pedal Clearence

Hello. I have a Trek 4500 and it has been a great bike. I'm getting clipless pedals for it soon and new red grips. The only problem I have had with it has been low pedal clearence. I've taken my kick stand off so I know its not that. Over roots and log pyramids, the pedals sometimes smack the roots. It throws you off balence. I can hold the pedals parallel to the ground and their is know problem. But up rooty hills, it gets annoying. What can I do to fix this.
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Old 06-28-07, 05:40 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by Tra!l !
What can I do to fix this.
Shorter cranks(165, 170mm) and smaller pedals, like CB eggbeaters.
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Old 06-28-07, 06:47 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Quick_Torch C5
Shorter cranks(165, 170mm) and smaller pedals, like CB eggbeaters.
Learning to pedal more smoothly, and timing pedal strokes better will do him more good than buying new parts.

Ride more. As the saying goes, practice makes perfect, right?
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Old 06-28-07, 09:22 AM   #4
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I've been riding for about seven years, and I still manage to whack my pedals every now and then. Technique, timing, practice will help reduce the incidents, but I don't think one can ever eliminate the occasional whack. It's part of the game.
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Old 06-28-07, 09:50 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tra!l !
Hello. I have a Trek 4500 and it has been a great bike. I'm getting clipless pedals for it soon and new red grips. The only problem I have had with it has been low pedal clearence. I've taken my kick stand off so I know its not that. Over roots and log pyramids, the pedals sometimes smack the roots. It throws you off balence. I can hold the pedals parallel to the ground and their is know problem. But up rooty hills, it gets annoying. What can I do to fix this.
Not much...you need a frame with a higher bottom bracket...My BB height is over 15" and I still hit things and am thinking of going to 16" with a longer fork

Don't use shorter cranks...you'll have to work much harder and only pick up a few cm in clearance
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Old 06-28-07, 10:38 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quick_Torch C5
Shorter cranks(165, 170mm)

Quote:
Originally Posted by jm01
Not much...you need a frame with a higher bottom bracket...My BB height is over 15" and I still hit things and am thinking of going to 16" with a longer fork

This is some of the worst advice I've seen on here in a while.
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Old 06-28-07, 10:41 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete Fagerlin
Ride more.
100% agree. Some people come into riding thining cadence is king. In reality its ALSO timing. Timing your stroke to the trail you can make it up some rough stuff. This is a learned trait. To fix it by purchasing new equipment which might affect other parts of your riding isn't the smartest thing to do. It would "work"...but it wouldn't make you a better rider.
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Old 06-28-07, 10:44 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jm01
My BB height is over 15" and I still hit things and am thinking of going to 16" with a longer fork
Damn, 15"?!?
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Old 06-28-07, 10:46 AM   #9
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Maybe you could put your pedal at a neutral zone, that's how I call it when both your pedals are parallel to the ground...
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Old 06-28-07, 11:14 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoYlE_RiD3r
Maybe you could put your pedal at a neutral zone, that's how I call it when both your pedals are parallel to the ground...
How do you pedal uphill on roots with your pedals level?...
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Old 06-28-07, 11:17 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rydaddy
Damn, 15"?!?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Id.jpg (80.5 KB, 44 views)
File Type: jpg Id2.jpg (95.9 KB, 37 views)
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Old 06-28-07, 11:22 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcoine
This is some of the worst advice I've seen on here in a while.
How come?...with 15" BB height, I'm still hitting logs, rocks, and sides of hills with my peddles when I'm in the tight singletrack on the home trails...cadence and riding skills have noyhing to do with this...hopping over a too big a log on a steep descent can still make contact
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Old 06-28-07, 11:31 AM   #13
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PRobably because if you watch the better xc guys they can have a lower bb height and not hit anything. While what you say isn't wrong, you aren't becoming a better rider because of it.

And trust me, I know your area fairly well, and if you think you have problems out there you should really come out west. From your description it sounds like you wouldn't even be able to pedal. I used to think like you (god I wanted a tall bike) until I hooked up with some good riders who floated the entire section I was stuck in.

and during dh I would say the forces are different, especially on a dually. Taking turns quickly, landing a jump and other variable can create a lot of force pushing the bike down. Quite a bit different then pedalling.
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Old 06-28-07, 11:48 AM   #14
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You don't want a higher bb and you probably don't want shorter crankarms, some DH riders excluded.

You do want to practice more, because it can be done. Believe.
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Old 06-28-07, 11:48 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete Fagerlin
Cadence and riding skills have everything to do with it.
Hmmmm...I'm leading two group rides this weekend...one group has a rider who used to race with (not for) the Cdn mtb team...another with a team that's training for the TransRockies in August...

I'll report back on Tuesday as to how we do...perhaps I can lead from the back and watch how they avoid the occassional peddle contact
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Old 06-28-07, 11:51 AM   #16
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I have to agree with the timing recommendation. There are times I'll level out my pedals before an obstacle, ratchet one pedal back (if the obstacle is on one side), or some sort of combination. It may be extremely brief but if you do it right, you'll clear.
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Old 06-28-07, 11:57 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jm01
Hmmmm...I'm leading two group rides this weekend...one group has a rider who used to race with (not for) the Cdn mtb team...another with a team that's training for the TransRockies in August...

I'll report back on Tuesday as to how we do...perhaps I can lead from the back and watch how they avoid the occassional peddle contact
Man the trans is brutal. My uncle in law has been riding and building trails out here for 20 some odd years. He got back and said that was the first time he ever bonked (he won the first xfc thing) He bonked on day 5 or 6. Definately nuts.
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Old 06-28-07, 12:02 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Maelstrom
Man the trans is brutal. My uncle in law has been riding and building trails out here for 20 some odd years. He got back and said that was the first time he ever bonked (he won the first xfc thing) He bonked on day 5 or 6. Definately nuts.
they should do well...they came in the top 5 in last week's 24 hour summer solstice here, even after losing a team member after the 3'rd lap

their training includes pedalling up Blue Mountain in Collingwood 4X/day

could be a fun day

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Old 06-28-07, 12:07 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete Fagerlin
Occasional pedal smacks are part of mountain biking.
that's all I was trying to say...now if I can figure out a way from stopping the pins on my wellgo flats from tearing up my leg...
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Old 06-28-07, 12:24 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jm01
Ellsworth Id only has a 13" BB height. JustsayinknowwhatImsayin'?
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Old 06-28-07, 12:58 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pinkrobe
Ellsworth Id only has a 13" BB height. JustsayinknowwhatImsayin'?
Welcome to the weird world of Ellsworth

The Id BB height spec'd out at 13.75"

Bottom Bracket Height: 13.75

http://shop.ellsworthbikes.com/bikes/id/index.cfm

but apparently this is the sagged height (makes no sense), and the Id is designed for 4" (Cali version), 5", and 6" rear travel...depends on the shock stroke...1.75", 2.0", or 2.25"

Mine is a 6" (7.875" X 2.25") resulting in an unsagged BB height of just over 15"...proof is in the standover...I now sing soprano in our church choir
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Old 06-28-07, 01:10 PM   #22
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I guess I do need to work on timing. I had a guy coming the other way yesterday on a very rooty, and up hill for him area, and he cut through it like a knife through butter. Thanks alot guys.
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Old 06-28-07, 01:29 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tra!l !
I guess I do need to work on timing. I had a guy coming the other way yesterday on a very rooty, and up hill for him area, and he cut through it like a knife through butter. Thanks alot guys.
It's much easier on a hardtail...with a little practice and a dialed in drive train, you can make a bike dance through the crap and corruption

happy trails
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Old 06-28-07, 01:57 PM   #24
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There is nothing wrong with your bike, learn to pick the easiest path through is also a major aspect.

It's only to blame on your bike if you are taking the exact same path through as everyone else and you are grinding your chainring, not your pedals.
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Old 06-28-07, 10:50 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcoine
This is some of the worst advice I've seen on here in a while.


ummm...this was a joke sorry for the confusion...geesh

Last edited by Quick_Torch C5; 06-28-07 at 10:58 PM.
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