Mose

So because I'm sick of dealing with my I-drive bearing and the associated issues, I've been contemplating switching frames. I found a nice deal on a 2003 Specialized Enduro and I have one question about it. I've been getting more into drops (nothing huge) and stunt riding, but of course I still love hammering around on technical XC trails so seat post adjustability is important to me. I know you were always limited on seatpost adjustment with these frames, but my question is, by how much? I like to be able to put my seat way down when I need to. Have any previous owners found this to be a hinderence or a problem? I ride pretty high up when I'm XC'ing but for stunts and long downhills I like to be able to ride with my knee at less than 90 deg on the up stroke.

Thanks in advance for the help.

PS, here's a picture of the frame in question:





PPS, I'm also considering a Moment or an Id, if I can find one for a good deal, which is unlikely.

dminor 

Yeah, you just have to be careful. If you want to be sure, temporarily take the spring off, cycle the susp. through and see how much you can get away with slamming the post. On my old BigHit I was able to find a good compromise length that would slam down but still give me good enough leg extension for climbing. But it was an XL frame with more room to work with.

Nowadays, you have some attractive options that I did not have when I had an FSR: Titec makes the 'Scoper seatpost that is a post-within-a-post. Or there are the Gravity Dropper and Maverick telescoping posts. Both razzoo options.

PS - -if you find the FSR is not your cup 'o tea, I'd be happy to take it off your hands

Quick_Torch C5

+1 this is what I was going to recommend for your situation.

Mose

Thanks for the advice guys... I'm embarrased to say I never knew anyone even made telescoping seatposts. If I can get this frame cheap, I think I'm going to be pulling the trigger.

The frame is actually an '01, not an '03, which is when they started using that stamped upper frame on the Enduros. This one has longer travel which I like. This seems to be more or less an "all mountain" frame before that designation was popular.

Mose

So those seatposts are hydraulic and adjust on the fly.... that's very interesting. I was picturing just another cam clamp.

... $250 is a little more than I want to spend on a seatpost (it will probably be more than the frame itself).

I might just buy a spare seatpost and saddle and hack off the end if I know I'm going to be doing something involving a lot of DH or stunt riding....

Mose

OK, found the Titec Scoper, $50. I'm an idiot. Thanks again guys.

dminor 

Sounds like the Scoper is the ticket; and yeah, the Maverick and Gravity Droppers are spendy. I did two-seatpost thing for a while; but it's kind of a pain. If you get it, let's see your build. They are nice frames and the base for very worthy rides.

Mose

Yeah, I'll make sure to take some pictures if I do. It's just going to be a transfer, more or less. The gear I have on my I drive Marathon is - XT shifters/levers, Avid mechanicals, '04 Marzocchi Marathon S, XT FD, XTR RD (not rapid rise), XTR cassette, XT hub/Mavic 223 disc wheels, RF Evolve XC crank (from the year before, apparently, they moved their BB manufacture to the land of China)... all nine speed.

Don't get me wrong, I've got a great set up now... I'm just looking for more than 4" of rear travel, and a little less maintenance.

Know anyone that wants an I drive Marathon frame and Fox Float R/L shock? I'll throw in the Synchros seat post too

I'm also a little curious about the e clamp FD on the Specialized. Never acutally used one before.

Mose

Also, out of curiousity... how does this geometry climb in term of pedal bob? I'm guessing not as nice as an Ellsworth. Am I going to be longing for a lockout?

dminor 

A Syncros seatpost would sweeten any deal

The only caveat with this is that not all bottom brackets are compatible with the E-type FD due to spacing/chainline issues. An e-compatible one will come with a shim that goes under the drive-side cup for NON-e-type applications (to take up the space normally occupied by the derailleur bracket). You will just be leaving that shim out.

The Horst Link four-bar is one of the better-climbing designs (IMO); but it WILL be active (this is actually a good thing).

My best advice is what I was told a long time ago with climbing and active-suspension: "Keep your butt in the saddle and pedal in circles." Pick a gear going into the climb that will allow you a good cadence seated (slide up to the nose of the saddle if you need to in order to better weight the front) and grind it out. You will be rewarded with excellent traction and an efficient climb.

Mose

Dminor, thanks for the help! My RF BB has the spacer and it is currently installed on the drive side of my GT.

The climbing advice is sound, it is the style with which I currently ride.

Here's my take on it, having had the lockout available now for the past few seasons-

On climbs that are faily smooth and I'm confident about the grip, I use the lockout purely for the sake of efficiency. If it gets super steep, sometimes I get out of the saddle to keep my front wheel down, although if I remember to flip the lockout on my Marathon S, it locks the travel down and gives me a better angle, so I suppose it isn't a completely necessary maneuver.

On loose or low traction climbs (such as the gravel fire roads at Killington VT that we climb every year) I tend to leave the lockout alone. Since I do climb in such a low gear and I'm applying so much drive torque to the rear wheel, any torque spikes soaked up by the suspension means I'm less likely to loose traction and have to get off and hump it up (not that there's anything wrong with cyclocross).

I'm guessing I'd need the longer Float if I wanted to put an air shock w/ lock out in it. I guess I do have that option, and they're not too expensive used-

https://cgi.ebay.com/FOX-SHOX-FLOAT-R...QQcmdZViewItem

dminor 

Duhh, I forgot that you were coming from an I-drive (another fairly efficient design) so you already know the climbing drill.

Oh, and watch out using a longer eye-to-eye with the FSR linkage - - it will make major geometry changes. Stock shock is a 6.5" eye-to-eye, correct?

Mose

Yeah, but don't worry about, I'm sure I'm not the only one reading the thread, I never turn down free advice, even if it's a refresher.

I don't know what is stock on the FSR, I though it was the longer 7.8"... if it is indeed 6.5" I'll be able to use the Float R/L that is currently on my GT. Which would be nice, because I can ride the bike with each for a while before I sell the frame to see if I like the coil better. Of course, this is all tentative still....

dminor 

I am probably wrong on the length . . . it's an age thing. Too long ago and too many numbers in my head. Wish I could find an old spec chart. I know my old BigHit was a ¼" longer than the other FSRs; but was it 6.75/1,75 or 7.75/1.75? I'm so confused . . .