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Old 09-26-07, 08:24 AM   #1
wal-martryder
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what kind of bike should I buy????

I don't know what kind of bike I should buy. I use to race BMX but I know nothing of MBs, I weigh 240 pounds and I am looking for something to run trails with. I will probably be climbing a little but I mostly want a durable beginner bike that I am not going to destroy by doing drops and riding hard. I am pretty sure that I am a fairly fast rider so I would say that I need something able to handle my weight trail riding at 20+ miles per hour. If you guys have some suggestions please help me. I really want to stay around the price of 1200 bucks. I don't know if I need a full suspension but you guys can decide that, please help. Thank you
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Old 09-26-07, 08:31 AM   #2
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I'd go to a LBS(local bike shop) and see what they have in that range and ask their advice, only they can fit you properly. 20 mph? maybe down a 50 ft hill
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Old 09-26-07, 01:25 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by mild beast View Post
Wal-Mart has a good selection of bikes. You can post a new thread here when you are ready to ask more questions about anything regarding bikes.

oh yeah, "steel is real".
they range from: will fall apart in a day, to it will fall apart in a week.
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Old 09-26-07, 01:38 PM   #4
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you can get a very nice hardtail for about 1200 bucks. If i was 240 pounds this is what i would do.
http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=32573
plus a marzocchi dirt jumper 3. Not sure how much that would be. Then i would have a wheelset built on some bolt on hubs with a decent rim.

If i were you i would go with the specialized P.2 or P.2 Chromo, i have the P.2 which was 1100 and is now 1200. The P.2 chromo is 910 but is gonna be heavier. The chromo has bb5 mechanical disc brakes, while the P.2 has hayes sole hydraulics. Your are probably better off with the BB5's. the soles are not very good.
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Old 09-26-07, 04:47 PM   #5
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I think I will go to my LBS and ask them what they think.
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Old 09-26-07, 05:07 PM   #6
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Wal-Mart has a good selection of bikes. You can post a new thread here when you are ready to ask more questions about anything regarding bikes.

oh yeah, "steel is real".
Wall Mart, you're kidding right?
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Old 09-26-07, 09:23 PM   #7
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I think I will go to my LBS and ask them what they think.
Ding-ding, we have a WINNER! Bob, tell him what he's won!
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Old 09-27-07, 09:42 AM   #8
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Id say go with a Hard Tail, If you really going to issueing punishment, the less that can break the beeter. Alos you'll get more rocket from your pocket by not paying for costly rear suspension.
Local dealer should be good help but make sure they dont just sell you something for your price range. Dont tell them how much u wnat to spend.
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Old 09-27-07, 10:41 AM   #9
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[QUOTE=robbiemcgilla;5344727]Id say go with a Hard Tail, If you really going to issueing punishment, the less that can break the beeter. Alos you'll get more rocket from your pocket by not paying for costly rear suspension.
Local dealer should be good help but make sure they dont just sell you something for your price range. Dont tell them how much u wnat to spend.[/QUOTe
Awe inspiring.
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Old 09-27-07, 03:35 PM   #10
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you can get a very nice hardtail for about 1200 bucks. If i was 240 pounds this is what i would do.
http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=32573
plus a marzocchi dirt jumper 3. Not sure how much that would be. Then i would have a wheelset built on some bolt on hubs with a decent rim.

If i were you i would go with the specialized P.2 or P.2 Chromo, i have the P.2 which was 1100 and is now 1200. The P.2 chromo is 910 but is gonna be heavier. The chromo has bb5 mechanical disc brakes, while the P.2 has hayes sole hydraulics. Your are probably better off with the BB5's. the soles are not very good.
I would agree if you looking for a bike thats gonna hold up under speed, and also dropin off big stuff, the specialized P.2 or P.2 Chromo are proven to be kick ass!
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Old 09-27-07, 11:32 PM   #11
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So hardtails are more durable than full suspension bikes if you're going to be "issuing punishment"?

When did that happen?
I read: "...the less that can break the better."
I never read: "hardtails are more durable..."

Which is a sound opinion.
How much does it cost to replace a busted rear suspension?
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Old 09-28-07, 04:29 AM   #12
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This thread is awesome......
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Old 09-28-07, 08:57 AM   #13
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I think I will go to my LBS and ask them what they think.
Mountain bike (and road bikes for that matter) aren't nearly as delicate as some people would have you believe. I'm in your range and have ridden good mountain bikes without problems for years. I don't treat them with kid gloves either. I'm not a jumper but I don't ride them around the park either. They'll hold up.

For $1200, something in the class of a Stumpjumper hardtail (look at all of the other brands too) would be tough to beat. Something like the FSRxc rim or the FSRxc Comp (slightly higher) would work too. However, tuning the suspension for your weight can be tricky. They're optimized for someone in the 140 to 150 lb range on the show room floor which makes them mushy as hell for guys like us.

Best idea is to ride lots
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Old 09-28-07, 09:03 AM   #14
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However, tuning the suspension for your weight can be tricky. They're optimized for someone in the 140 to 150 lb range on the show room floor which makes them mushy as hell for guys like us.
Yeah, cycco...pretty tricky.

About 30 seconds could optimize it to any rider, dingdong.
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Old 09-28-07, 09:46 AM   #15
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Yeah, cycco...pretty tricky.

About 30 seconds could optimize it to any rider, dingdong.
Tricky as in trying to find the right pressure so that the bike will actually work like its supposed to and not be an inch worm. The shock may not even take the pressure that is needed for us larger guys. My higher end bike with a much better suspension system took me a year and a half and a trip to Push to get it right. Now it works like it should. Push doesn't do the shocks on the FSRxc.
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Old 09-28-07, 10:00 AM   #16
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or turn it into a HT. I agree about front forks, some of the front forks just don't take our weight and their over pressured for our body weight to get the right SAG or the springs aren't rated for our weight.

+1 on Push. Two trips to push got my RP3 working right. The first time was blamed on bad seals from Fox. The 2nd time has been totally awesome. Push has been awesome and their customer service is tremendous.

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Tricky as in trying to find the right pressure so that the bike will actually work like its supposed to and not be an inch worm. The shock may not even take the pressure that is needed for us larger guys. My higher end bike with a much better suspension system took me a year and a half and a trip to Push to get it right. Now it works like it should. Push doesn't do the shocks on the FSRxc.
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Old 09-28-07, 10:57 AM   #17
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I've been nothing but happy with my 32 Vanilla from PUSH, but it didn't take 2 times to get it right.

I talked to my local Mech. and he said that PUSH jacked up a Trek Fuel rear shock. They instructed the owner to set it at a certain pressure to begin a setup, but the customer and Mech. said that the Fuel is supposed to be 3/4 the rider weight.

I don't know how it all turned out but why all the formula crap? Just add air until proper sag is reached.

I'm still waiting for the follow-up on that one.

Either way, I'm not a huge fan of air suspension. My Float would bottom out on medoicre dips and obstacles when set with proper sag. My Vanilla doesn't.
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Old 09-28-07, 12:24 PM   #18
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I've been nothing but happy with my 32 Vanilla from PUSH, but it didn't take 2 times to get it right.

I talked to my local Mech. and he said that PUSH jacked up a Trek Fuel rear shock. They instructed the owner to set it at a certain pressure to begin a setup, but the customer and Mech. said that the Fuel is supposed to be 3/4 the rider weight.

I don't know how it all turned out but why all the formula crap? Just add air until proper sag is reached.

I'm still waiting for the follow-up on that one.

Either way, I'm not a huge fan of air suspension. My Float would bottom out on medoicre dips and obstacles when set with proper sag. My Vanilla doesn't.
It only took one time on my shock too but that's my point. Set up of the stock shock did the same as your Float. Even minor bumps or simply pedaling would bottom the shock...and that was with the shock pumped up way past what was recommended for my weight.

After I sent the shock in I talked to my LBS guys and they said it was standard procedure to send the shock to Push following sale of the bike. There seems to be something wrong with that picture.
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Old 09-28-07, 01:50 PM   #19
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You need someone to help you with your reading.
Maybe you are correct. Perhaps you could help me out in that area and point to me the phrase in the following quote that states hardtail bikes are more durable than full suspension bikes. I
will admit that I'm not the most perceptive person in the world, and I could benefit by brushing up on my reading comprehension (can't we all?), but with all my experience in solving word find puzzles in the local paper over the years, I'm unable to pull that phrase or anything that resembles it out of his quote.
So please good sir, can you educate me and show me how you were able to comprehend what you did from what he said?


Id say go with a Hard Tail, If you really going to issueing punishment, the less that can break the beeter. Alos you'll get more rocket from your pocket by not paying for costly rear suspension.
Local dealer should be good help but make sure they dont just sell you something for your price range. Dont tell them how much u wnat to spend.
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Old 09-28-07, 02:19 PM   #20
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No problem, here you go:

"Id say go with a Hard Tail, If you really going to issueing(sic) punishment, ..."

Note these two phrases and their relationship.

Perhaps your reading comprehension issues would be helped if we moved the phrases, since that doesn't change their meaning.

"If you really going to issueing(sic) punishment, Id say go with a Hard Tail..."

Good luck in your search for understanding!
Thank you for your help, but you did not address the rest of that sentence.
"...If you really going to issueing punishment, the less that can break the beeter."

Note these two phrases and their relationship.

Perhaps my reading comprehension issues would be helped if we moved the phrases, since that doesn't change their meaning.
"The less that can break the beeter, If you really going to issueing punishment"

Perhaps you can adress that.
I'm not saying that you necessary are doing this, but there are a few people in the A&S forum that tend to ignore every other aspect of a quote other than what they can manipulate to suit their own desires.

So looking at the phrase as a whole, and not just picking out half of it and ignoring the other half, can you please show me where he said that a hardtail is more durable?
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Old 09-28-07, 02:24 PM   #21
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OK, we all get what you are driviing at — i.e.- If your riding is going to be heaping a lot of punishment on a bike then you should think about a hardtail, because there are fewer moving parts to break (implying that, on the average, a hardtail is more robust).

However, as Pete is trying to point out, the whole statement, whether written in English or in ESL English, is bunk.
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Old 09-28-07, 02:32 PM   #22
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OK, we all get what you are driviing at — i.e.- If your riding is going to be heaping a lot of punishment on a bike then you should think about a hardtail, because there are fewer moving parts to break (implying that, on the average, a hardtail is more robust).

However, as Pete is trying to point out, the whole statement, whether written in English or in ESL English, is bunk.
See, I don't think that he is implying a hardtail is more robust, but rather that if you beat the hell out of something that sooner or later every part is going to break and or need to be replaced due to wear, so why not get one that has less parts to replace over time.
Like you I don't agree with his opinion on that, but never the less that is his opinion, and if a person who is considering a new bike is not the type of person who will be able to set aside funds in the future for costly reairs then maybe they should consider the total cost of ownership, then his opinion is sound.
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Old 09-28-07, 07:41 PM   #23
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And that right there highlights your lack of context or experience.

What you aren't understanding is that if you beat the hell out of a hardtail and a FS DH bike the FS DH bike will be more durable, many parts will last longer, etc.

Perhaps you should do more than a "little" mountain biking. That might, just might, help you understand how little you understand at this point.
But that doesn't change the fact that a full suspension bike has more parts to break now does it.

I'm getting out of this thread before it gets any worse, I've seen how Petes threads turn corners and become what they become. So you can have the the last word if you wish.
I *do* have better things to do than argue with privilaged rich kids who have nothing better to do than make a profession out of arguing on the internet.

Enjoy Pete
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Old 09-28-07, 07:58 PM   #24
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Pete, how come just about every thread you post in becomes something like this?
At least this guy had the courtesey to get out before it got any worse?

BTW, I thought you lived in a half million dollar plus home (read that in a different post a ways back).
And I don't recall this guy even saying he did have mountain biking experience at all. I read the fixed gear forum, and have posted in there, but there is no way in hell you'd catch me riding a bike with only one gear.
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Old 09-28-07, 08:07 PM   #25
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Tom Said: But that doesn't change the fact that a full suspension bike has more parts to break now does it.
Pete Said: That just serves to illustrate your lack of experience and your cluelessness.

So Pete, are you saying that a full suspension bike generally has less parts susceptible to breaking?
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