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  1. #1
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    Bike upside down + releasing air from fork = blue substance squirting out

    I only did it for a fraction of a second before I realized I had blue snot on my hand, probably half a teaspoon or so shot on my finger. That can't be good, I'm sure. Sigh. I thought since these were adjustable air shocks I wouldn't have to worry about snot shooting out at me.

  2. #2
    Type 1 Racer rydaddy's Avatar
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    It sounds like you were opening up the chamber (under pressure), not releasing air. You use your fork pump to let air out. I guess it's possible the fluid came through the valve considering the bike was upside down.

    Do your homework first, then break out the tools.

  3. #3
    Official Website Waterboy born2bahick's Avatar
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    Um I have to ask, What made you turn the bike over before checking the air pressure?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by rydaddy View Post
    It sounds like you were opening up the chamber (under pressure), not releasing air. You use your fork pump to let air out. I guess it's possible the fluid came through the valve considering the bike was upside down.

    Do your homework first, then break out the tools.

    I pressed on the little needle in the middle as if it was a tire. I didn't see anything about that in the manual.

    Are you saying that it's ok to keep the bike upside down and play with the pressure using the pump?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by born2bahick View Post
    Um I have to ask, What made you turn the bike over before checking the air pressure?
    I keep the front tire in my car because I bring my bike with me every day so when it's indoors rather than sit it on its front fork I put it upside downso it wouldn't be prone to tipping over on the carpet.

  6. #6
    Writin' stuff ZeCanon's Avatar
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    It's called gravity. You turn the bike upside down, all the oil inside (yes, there is oil in an air fork. And it is often blue) runs to the top. You open the air valve, blue oil comes out. There isn't a whole lot of oil in air forks (5cc's in each leg of a SID for example) so if any comes you you really need to replace it.
    Velo Magazine/VeloNews.com tech guy get in touch or hit me on the tweeter @CaleyFretz

  7. #7
    Type 1 Racer rydaddy's Avatar
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    Don't play with the air if your bike is upside down. There is a small amount of fluid in the chamber (at least on my old fork) that will come out - or clog the valve - before the air. Think gravity.

  8. #8
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    Well it says nothing about oil coming out in the owner's manual and no cautions saying not to turn it upside down....pretty lame.

    1. Remove the air topcap from the top of the left fork leg and connect the pump by threading
    the chuck onto the tank valve until the pump gauge registers pressure. If the fork has no air pressure, the gauge will not register. This takes about 6 turns. Don't over-tighten as it can damage the pump chuck seal.
    2. Increase the pressure by stroking the pump a few cycles. Pressure should increase slowly. If the pressure increases rapidly, check the pump is properly connected to the tank valve.
    3. Decrease the pressure by depressing the black bleed-valve. Push the bleed valve half-way and hold to allow continuous pressure release. Depress the bleed-valve completely to release pressure incrementally (micro-adjust).
    4. Disconnect the pump by unthreading the chuck. The sound of air loss is from the pump hose and not the fork.
    5. Install the air topcap and go ride.
    Note: When connecting the pump, the hose fills with air resulting in a 10-20PSI lower gauge reading. Normal pressure range is between 45 and 125PSI. DO NOT EXCEED 200PS



    Thanks for all the smart ass answers btw

  9. #9
    Type 1 Racer rydaddy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by legalize View Post
    Well it says nothing about oil coming out in the owner's manual and no cautions saying not to turn it upside down....pretty lame.

    1. Remove the air topcap from the top of the left fork leg and connect the pump by threading
    the chuck onto the tank valve until the pump gauge registers pressure. If the fork has no air pressure, the gauge will not register. This takes about 6 turns. Don't over-tighten as it can damage the pump chuck seal.
    2. Increase the pressure by stroking the pump a few cycles. Pressure should increase slowly. If the pressure increases rapidly, check the pump is properly connected to the tank valve.
    3. Decrease the pressure by depressing the black bleed-valve. Push the bleed valve half-way and hold to allow continuous pressure release. Depress the bleed-valve completely to release pressure incrementally (micro-adjust).
    4. Disconnect the pump by unthreading the chuck. The sound of air loss is from the pump hose and not the fork.
    5. Install the air topcap and go ride.
    Note: When connecting the pump, the hose fills with air resulting in a 10-20PSI lower gauge reading. Normal pressure range is between 45 and 125PSI. DO NOT EXCEED 200PS

    And which step says to turn the bike UPSIDE DOWN?

  10. #10
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    Where does it say not to turn it upside down? Hmmmm

    Man, I ask a question and try to talk about it and I get attacked.
    Don't even reply if you're gonna be a dick about it, I don't have space for your negative crap & snide remarks.
    Last edited by legalize; 04-29-08 at 01:21 PM.

  11. #11
    Type 1 Racer rydaddy's Avatar
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    I actually thought I was helping. Sorry that you are so fragile. It doesn't say to not turn the bike upside down because people typically do not work on an upside down bike. Especially when the valve is on top.

  12. #12
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    The 'help' part kinda dwindles when you start being a dick about things. Yeah. Who'da thunk?

  13. #13
    Type 1 Racer rydaddy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by legalize View Post
    The 'help' part kinda dwindles when you start being a dick about things. Yeah. Who'da thunk?
    Hmm, let's see. Was I a dick when I said to 'do your homework first', or when I said 'think gravity'?

    Harden up young fella.

  14. #14
    PBR Racing RIC0's Avatar
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    Open the top cap and pour a little fork oil in there, no biggy.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by rydaddy View Post
    Hmm, let's see. Was I a dick when I said to 'do your homework first', or when I said 'think gravity'?

    Harden up young fella.

    I just felt like all your posts culminated in a certain tone and that pissed me off. I understand you were trying to help, but your tone felt lie an attack. Either way I apologize and I emailed Push to see what they would say as well. I would guess that the loss of oil would not do too much harm but then again it's just a guess and I'm sure it's there for a reason...more of a question of immediate damage vs long term added wear or something. Either way it sucks, damnit!

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by RIC0 View Post
    Open the top cap and pour a little fork oil in there, no biggy.
    Is this something I can do with relative ease on my own? I assume you have to depressurize the fork first? Not sure which cap, the one with the air valve on it? Maybe there's a manual or maybe this is on Park tools site? I'll look but not sure where to put the oil in and really wouldn't want to further break this essentially brand new bike.

  17. #17
    Type 1 Racer rydaddy's Avatar
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    Do what RICO said. Just make sure you let all the air out before you open the cap.

  18. #18
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    I'm wondering if I have to get a certain kind of fork oil and if my bike store would have it readily available, or if it's bad to mix two different brands of fork oil, etc..

  19. #19
    Senior Member pyroguy_3's Avatar
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    Your bike shop might have it on hand, if not it's a relatively easy enough thing to order. When you go to the lbs ask how much it would be for them to top off your oil, if you're not comfortable working on your fork. It seems you're competent enough though. On my Revelation you pretty much just release the pressure in the positive and negative air chambers, loosen a couple bolts and junk, and you're in like flynn. But I have no idea how your fork is set up. A good reference book to have would be Zinn and the art of mountain bike maintenance. Mine has served me very well. Other than that, the only advice I can give you is to not connect the shock-pump to the bike while upside down, or you'll have a pump full of oil.
    Erwin Schroedinger will kill you like a cat in a box. Maybe.

  20. #20
    Generic Title ProFail's Avatar
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    As a side note, hanging your bike upside down will get air in your brake lines.
    Generic Joke

  21. #21
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    Interesting. Never knew upside down bikes were so DANGEROUS@#&#^$#*^!

  22. #22
    Generic Title ProFail's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by legalize View Post
    Interesting. Never knew upside down bikes were so DANGEROUS@#&#^$#*^!
    It's a well known fact that inverted bikes will explode upon any impacts greater than 0.23g.
    Generic Joke

  23. #23
    Senior Member rankin116's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ProFail View Post
    As a side note, hanging your bike upside down will get air in your brake lines.
    How so? It's a closed system, no?

  24. #24
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    That was my understanding as well. I think PF is BSing

  25. #25
    Generic Title ProFail's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rankin116 View Post
    How so? It's a closed system, no?
    This is, of course, assuming you're using Avid hydro brakes which come stock on all Fuel models 6.5 and up. It happens to me, and it's warned against by Avid and other manufacturers as well.


    Looking for warning now....

    http://www.dirtragmag.com/forums//showthread.php?t=7077

    The guys at DirtRag hang their bikes, but it's also stated that not all brake systems are perfectly closed.
    Generic Joke

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