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  1. #1
    Parrot Heads unite!
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    Front disc brake for an older bike

    I have an older frame without disc tabs but a brand new fork with them. I am thinking of dropping the dough and going disc on the front wheel and leaving V's on the back since it is better to have better stopping front brakes correct? Does anyone have suggestions on the following questions (and I know it will be based on personal preference so that is ok.

    1. What brands does everyone suggest. Experiences both good and bad with brands is highly encouraged.

    2. What size rotor should I be looking at? The fork is a RS Reba Team that can handle up to a 210mm maximum rotor. The bike is a hard tail xc machine. A lot of single track with some fast descents but not DH/FR quality at all

    3. Hydro or mechanical?

    Thanks in advance,
    Scott
    Last edited by Zaskar24; 06-06-08 at 04:25 PM.
    2009 Surly Cross Check
    2000 Moots YBB factory reconditioned.
    1999 Schwinn 4 Banger frame
    1997 GT Zaskar/Shimano XT with Spin rims
    1985 Raleigh Elkhorn converted to single speed (My very first MTB!)

  2. #2
    L-I-V-I-N dtrain's Avatar
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    I'm doing the same thing right now to my Big Sur. Disc tabs on my original fork...but not on the frame. I've gone with a 160mm Avid BB7 and will upgrade the levers to Speed Dial. From the brief research I put in, it seemed that the BB7 is the best mechanical set-up. I didn't give the 185mm much thought because I'm fairly low-key on the trails. Remember to budget for the new front wheel as well (depending on what you are running right now).
    "The older you do get, the more rules they're gonna try to get you to follow. You just gotta keep livin', man, L-I-V-I-N." - Wooderson

    '11 Fuji SL - '04 Bianchi Imola - '99 Gary Fisher Big Sur

  3. #3
    Parrot Heads unite!
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    Quote Originally Posted by dtrain View Post
    I'm doing the same thing right now to my Big Sur. Disc tabs on my original fork...but not on the frame. I've gone with a 160mm Avid BB7 and will upgrade the levers to Speed Dial. From the brief research I put in, it seemed that the BB7 is the best mechanical set-up. I didn't give the 185mm much thought because I'm fairly low-key on the trails. Remember to budget for the new front wheel as well (depending on what you are running right now).
    Thanks for the reply dtrain. How do the BB7s do stpooing wise? Better than your od V-brake? I was looking at the BB7 as one of my choices. I am still debating the whole mechanical vs. hydro thing.

    I have time sine I can only ride my trainer since I cannot even make my right hand hold a handlebar right now.

    Anyone else?

    Scott
    2009 Surly Cross Check
    2000 Moots YBB factory reconditioned.
    1999 Schwinn 4 Banger frame
    1997 GT Zaskar/Shimano XT with Spin rims
    1985 Raleigh Elkhorn converted to single speed (My very first MTB!)

  4. #4
    L-I-V-I-N dtrain's Avatar
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    Just bought parts and haven't completed the conversion yet...so no opinion to pass along. Heard that BB7 was the best mech. disc and much better than V-brakes. (Plus I ride in some rain and mud in Oregon.) Didn't really care to go to the expense of hydro's on a bike I'll eventually want to replace anyway.

    The '08 BB7 is just $60 (for either F or R) at Performance and I caught it on sale for under $50. Walked out of there with a front Mavic Crossride for under $50 also.
    "The older you do get, the more rules they're gonna try to get you to follow. You just gotta keep livin', man, L-I-V-I-N." - Wooderson

    '11 Fuji SL - '04 Bianchi Imola - '99 Gary Fisher Big Sur

  5. #5
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    You might want to stick with a mech disc brake, otherwise you'll have two different types of brake levers, which might feel odd...

    Avid BB7's work great...

    They don't stop any better than my old Avid v brakes, though...at least when clean and dry...

  6. #6
    Parrot Heads unite!
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    Quote Originally Posted by kramnnim View Post
    You might want to stick with a mech disc brake, otherwise you'll have two different types of brake levers, which might feel odd...

    Avid BB7's work great...

    They don't stop any better than my old Avid v brakes, though...at least when clean and dry...
    Two different types of lever will probably not bother me once I get used to them. If I am not going to gain stopping power then it is not worth it to me so hydro looks to be in the lead. Is the modulation of the BB7 better then on Vs?

    dtrain,
    I'm not to worried about dropping money on this bike sine I intend to keep it for a long time. At some point I might also have the disc tabs added to the frame and go disc front and rear. I don't do much riding in the rain or mud because of policy were the trails that I are. So is it worth it to go to a front disc only? Or wait until I decide to add the tabs and go all disc at the same time and drop all the money at once? If some other project does not eat it all up first that is.
    2009 Surly Cross Check
    2000 Moots YBB factory reconditioned.
    1999 Schwinn 4 Banger frame
    1997 GT Zaskar/Shimano XT with Spin rims
    1985 Raleigh Elkhorn converted to single speed (My very first MTB!)

  7. #7
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    I test rode a few high end demo bikes last week...a couple had Juicy Ultimates, I think the others were lower end Juicys... They didn't really feel much different than my BB7s, other than that mine are tuned slightly better. (for some reason the demo bikes all had rear brakes that squealed really badly...)

    My old Avid V's will lock the front wheel with very little finger pressure...not sure why, most of the V's I've used don't stop nearly as well...

  8. #8
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    I would also recomend avid mech. i had the bb7 with full metal jacket housings and the avid ultimate lever i loved them. I also had a Hope mini on the front that is a very nice brake if you want to go that route.

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