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  1. #1
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    Trek 4300 vs 3900

    Hi all,
    Love this forum - all my questions were answered so far, thx to archives.

    Does anyone know what is the REAL difference between 3900 and 4300. Is Alpha Black aluminum frame on 4300 better than Alpha white on 3900? Is there a difference in weight?

    TIA

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    Quote Originally Posted by sys@dmin View Post
    Does anyone know what is the REAL difference between 3900 and 4300.
    400

  3. #3
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    4300 has disk mounts and I think the "white" aluminum is higher quality, but this sounds like a question for Cheeto. . .
    “Speed has never killed anyone, suddenly becoming stationary... that’s what gets you.”- Jeremy Clarkson

  4. #4
    Official Website Waterboy born2bahick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sys@dmin View Post
    Hi all,
    Love this forum - all my questions were answered so far, thx to archives.

    Does anyone know what is the REAL difference between 3900 and 4300. Is Alpha Black aluminum frame on 4300 better than Alpha white on 3900? Is there a difference in weight?

    TIA
    REAL differences:

    Hydroformed vs. externally relived frame
    100mm fork
    better derailuer
    rims
    Alloy pedal vs. plastic pedal

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by mcoine View Post
    400
    Sounds like you're developer...
    Only developers give an absolutely correct answer. And absolutely useless too

  6. #6
    Official Website Waterboy born2bahick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sys@dmin View Post
    Sounds like you're developer...
    Only developers give an absolutely correct answer. And absolutely useless too
    He he, Depends on your perspective, I got a laugh out of it so I found it usefull.

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    Quote Originally Posted by born2bahick View Post
    REAL differences:

    Hydroformed vs. externally relived frame
    100mm fork
    better derailuer
    rims
    Alloy pedal vs. plastic pedal
    Thx born2bahick,

    I don't think that acera vs alivio derailleurs have much difference, especially for newbie, like me. I know about all "technical" differences, but I'd like to find out more info based on experience.
    SO alloy pedals is a good thing (pretty cheap though), 100mm fork - I'm going to ride in the city mostly, so 80mm should be fine, considering the fact that they both (bottom) low end.
    Don't know about the rims, any suggestions?
    And the main thing - "Hydroformed vs. externally relived frame" doesn't tell me much, unfortunately Is there a difference except how they look?

  8. #8
    Senior Member CollectiveInk's Avatar
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    I am not sure about the specific components between the two, but found this on Trek's site. Seems the level of aluminum is Red > Black > White. http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/compa...lpha_aluminum/

    I bought my son and myself Trek 4300's (minus disc brakes) and have been MORE than satisfied with them.

    Just my $.02

    From what I was told when shopping around, Hydro forming is a process of shaping the aluminum resulting in less stress (from manufacturing) than straight bending/shaping. Using a liquid in the tube while bending and forming allows for constant pressure... or something like that. I'm not an engineer, just taking the info 3 LBS told me.
    Last edited by CollectiveInk; 07-17-08 at 02:37 PM. Reason: more info
    Tim
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    Specialized Allez Elite / Haro Extreme x6 Expert / Trek 4300 / Fuji Supreme SL / LeMond Reno - converted for TT / Giant Warp DS1 / Tommaso Ponza / Trek 4300 - 13.5" (For Sale)

  9. #9
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    I own an 08 3900.
    I've ridden an older 4300.
    Get the 4300. Its better quality, the components are better. And it has disk brake mounts.

    If you dont care about that, The 3900 should do fine for city riding. Heck, for city, even a 3700 would do.
    My only complaints were the stock parts... =0
    They weren't rugged enough to stand up to my abuse.
    The Frame itself is decent.

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    2cheeto:

    3700 is not much cheaper then 4300(about $60-80) and I can afford the difference. The reason I looked at 4300 is the frame. If later I'll decide to do some off-road I can just upgrade the components.
    I'd go for 4500, but it's $200 more than 4300, which doesn't make sense to me now.

  11. #11
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    4500 has better components and probably the better frame as well.
    Better components have higher prices.
    Go for the 4300 then...

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cheeto View Post
    4500 has better components and probably the better frame as well.
    Better components have higher prices.
    Go for the 4300 then...
    Correct me if my info is wrong, but I believe that the 4300 and 4500 use the same frame
    “Speed has never killed anyone, suddenly becoming stationary... that’s what gets you.”- Jeremy Clarkson

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    Exactly! The frame is the same. So you're getting Rock Shox Dart 3 fork and Deore RD with Alivio Shifters. They're separated from the brake levers (don't know how to explain it in "bicyclist" style
    4500 also has V-brakes.

    AND

    Thanks everyone for quick responses! I've just been in LBS, tried both 3900 and 4300. They're OK... BUT something was wrong Trying to get the body response, what I didn't like exactly.

    The bottom line is 4300 has stronger and lighter frame (not significant though). I doubt that it's important for beginners.
    My next bet is Giant Rincon or Spec Hardrock. They're "more" off-road due to a thicker tires (read slower and noisier) and softer forks (100mm both).

    I can post an update if anyone is interested, otherwise we can close the thread.

    Thanks again!

  14. #14
    unofficial roadie DirtPedalerB's Avatar
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    look at the fisher paranha.. those are nice. not sure on the price, but I like the fisher hardtails better than treks. They seem more responsive to me
    I only pedal uphill.

  15. #15
    ed
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    Quote Originally Posted by ca7erham View Post
    Correct me if my info is wrong, but I believe that the 4300 and 4500 use the same frame
    Yet more piss poor noobvice from Chester.


    Ya know Cheeto...it's not that I don't like you or enjoy your posts, even compared to a pup like myself your still a friggin kid, man.

    You're trying to give advice like you've been riding mountain bikes for a long time. You don't know jack from Jill, man. Do some research before you post something like that. It's easy. Trekbikes.com

    Trek 4300:

    Alpha Black Aluminum w/externally relieved head tube, hydroformed bi-axial down tube, monostay seat stays, forged disc ready dropouts

    Trek 4500:

    Alpha Black Aluminum w/externally relieved head tube, hydroformed bi-axial down tube, monostay seat stays, forged disc ready dropouts


    You just post speculation. "This is what I think...there's not much to substantiate it."
    Last edited by ed; 07-17-08 at 07:53 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DirtPedalerB View Post
    look at the fisher paranha.. those are nice. not sure on the price, but I like the fisher hardtails better than treks. They seem more responsive to me
    Paranha = $730 ish at LBS. OP; If you do the things you discribe, you have no need for Discs and seperate shifters and brake levers are good IMO because when you crash and break a shifter or bend a lever, you can more cheaply replace it. Also, If the bike doesnt feel right, then its not. But Dirt is right, try some GFs.
    “Speed has never killed anyone, suddenly becoming stationary... that’s what gets you.”- Jeremy Clarkson

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    I did try GF Marlin 19,5" and it's long for me Probably their famous Genesis Geometry is nice, but doesn't fit me.
    What about Piranha - they're out of my budget by... the cost of the bike I'm looking for
    Last edited by sys@dmin; 07-17-08 at 08:48 PM. Reason: typos...

  18. #18
    Newbie Pbeaters's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mcoine View Post
    400
    HAHAHAHA
    I have faith in the human race

  19. #19
    unofficial roadie DirtPedalerB's Avatar
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    try an 18.5 or whatever the next one down is then, more room for the manhood. Don't be fooled by the numbers on the frame just ride what's comfortable to you, but be warned what's comfortable to you as a non-rider may not be comfortable ater a couple of months.. If your riding the street mainly you may want to be slightly more stretched after you get in cycling shape.

    edit how tall are you?
    I only pedal uphill.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by chelboed View Post
    Yet more piss poor noobvice from Chester.


    Ya know Cheeto...it's not that I don't like you or enjoy your posts, even compared to a pup like myself your still a friggin kid, man.

    You're trying to give advice like you've been riding mountain bikes for a long time. You don't know jack from Jill, man. Do some research before you post something like that. It's easy. Trekbikes.com

    Trek 4300:

    Alpha Black Aluminum w/externally relieved head tube, hydroformed bi-axial down tube, monostay seat stays, forged disc ready dropouts

    Trek 4500:

    Alpha Black Aluminum w/externally relieved head tube, hydroformed bi-axial down tube, monostay seat stays, forged disc ready dropouts


    You just post speculation. "This is what I think...there's not much to substantiate it."
    Wait, do I get a cookie or a demerit?
    “Speed has never killed anyone, suddenly becoming stationary... that’s what gets you.”- Jeremy Clarkson

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    the next step is 17,5", however I didn't try it - didn't find a store with this size yet.
    Correction - Large size on GF is 19".
    And I'm 5'8"

    BTW just noticed that GF changed it's bikes to G2 Genesis vs "original" Genesis. 2009 bikes are coming!

  22. #22
    ed
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    Quote Originally Posted by ca7erham View Post
    Wait, do I get a cookie or a demerit?
    Chester = Chester-Cheeta = Cheeto

    I was basically +1'ing you with another point about the advice from Rahtzee

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    Quote Originally Posted by chelboed View Post
    Chester = Chester-Cheeta = Cheeto

    I was basically +1'ing you with another point about the advice from Rahtzee
    Now I have a point!
    “Speed has never killed anyone, suddenly becoming stationary... that’s what gets you.”- Jeremy Clarkson

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by chelboed View Post
    Yet more piss poor noobvice from Chester.


    Ya know Cheeto...it's not that I don't like you or enjoy your posts, even compared to a pup like myself your still a friggin kid, man.

    You're trying to give advice like you've been riding mountain bikes for a long time. You don't know jack from Jill, man. Do some research before you post something like that. It's easy. Trekbikes.com

    Trek 4300:

    Alpha Black Aluminum w/externally relieved head tube, hydroformed bi-axial down tube, monostay seat stays, forged disc ready dropouts

    Trek 4500:

    Alpha Black Aluminum w/externally relieved head tube, hydroformed bi-axial down tube, monostay seat stays, forged disc ready dropouts


    You just post speculation. "This is what I think...there's not much to substantiate it."
    I didnt research the frame sof the 4300-4500. I said PROBABLY, not definably.

    I'm just trying to relay my experience with my 3900.
    but, heres the best advice of all.

    Get what you want, what feels best to you. It's no use spending money on something that is not comfortable. Pay attention to different sizes and geometry's. The hardrock has a more agressive feel, IN MY OPINION then the 3900...

  25. #25
    Pint-Sized Gnar Shredder Zephyr11's Avatar
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    Tires are easily replaced. Don't choose a bike based on tires. If the Rincon or Hardrock fit you better, it's a relatively cheap fix to put on more suitable tires.

    As far as fit, don't compromise there. It's the most important part about the bike. Your LBS can also make some simple changes, like changing out the stem, adjusting the saddle position, etc, to change the fit, but some bikes will still fit better than others. If the Treks don't fit, look elsewhere. I bought my hardtails without shopping around first, and neither feel nearly as good as my FS, which I decided on after visiting around 5 bike shops, trying out countless bikes, and demoing one of them (the one I ended up buying).

    What's wrong with separate shifters and brake levers? I've never used integrated shifters on a mountain bike, so I can't speak for how wonderful or not wonderful they are, but with separate shifters and brake levers, they're easier to replace and upgrade. If it's concern about not wanting to take your fingers off the brake, look for trigger shifters where both triggers are activated by your thumb. Some of the SRAMs are like that (I know the X.0's are, so I would assume that some, if not all, of their cheaper ones are like that too). Many bike shops are willing to swap out equivalent parts (e.g. X.5 RD and shifters for Deore) or upgrade if you pay the difference (e.g. X.7 RD and shifters for Deore + cash). So you might be able to pull off integrated shifters anyway, if your heart is really set on them. If you do start swapping out parts, just remember that SRAM RD's go with SRAM shifters and Shimano RD's go with Shimano shifters (and SRAM 2:1 shifters). FD's don't matter.

    And you're fine with V's for now. But it doesn't hurt to get a disc compatible frame (and fork and wheels, if you don't want to upgrade them later). You might end up doing more trail riding in the future, and a good set of discs can make a world of difference (I think...my experience compares Tektro V's to Juicys, so if you have a great set of V's or buy a cheap set of discs, the difference might not be as pronounced). V's are lighter though, if you care about that.

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