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  1. #1
    26r grudgemonkey's Avatar
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    Need advice from Juicy 7 owners...

    Couple of quick ones for ya:

    Despite pad contact dial and lever reach adjustment, when braking the lever almost reaches the handlebar (less than 1 inch). More so on the rear than the front brake. I prefer the brake lever to fully engage further out in its travel. The brakes have 200-300 miles on them, but it was like this from day 1.

    Questions:

    1. Might there be air in the lines causing this?
    2. Did it come from the factory "low" on fluid?
    3. Any other causes or is this typical? Most other Avids I have used don't have this problem.

    I have a race in 10 days and if I need to bleed I'll have to order the kit asap!

  2. #2
    Gravity Is Yer Friend dirtbikedude's Avatar
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    It just takes a small bubble to cause problems. If the pads are in good shape AND it has been happening since you first bought the brakes (are you the original owner?) then there is a good chance they need to bleed. Have that done and if it still persists then there cound be a problem with the seals or the connection between the lines and caliper/master cylinder.

    Do you notice any fluid on the hoses, caliper or rotor? If not then just bleed 'em

    Most systems are bleed properly but you do get one with air in the lines from time to time.

    DBD

  3. #3
    Señor Member theextremist04's Avatar
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    Try turning your bike upside down or tapping the line- it helped me with the same problem. I just got a bike with Juicy 5s and could pull the lever to the bar with one finger. Worst case, bleeding will do it for sure.

  4. #4
    my brain hurts! fosmith's Avatar
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    NO! they don't need to be bled. Not a juicy owner myself, but i have dealt with them times too numerous to count.

    take your wheel out, sqeeze the lever once with the wheel out, reinstall wheel. if it won't fit between the pads, spread them a little with a clean screwdriver, cone wrench or whatever will fit. this resets the pistons, and your lever should contact sooner.

  5. #5
    Te mortuo heres tibi sim? scrublover's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fosmith View Post
    NO! they don't need to be bled. Not a juicy owner myself, but i have dealt with them times too numerous to count.

    take your wheel out, sqeeze the lever once with the wheel out, reinstall wheel. if it won't fit between the pads, spread them a little with a clean screwdriver, cone wrench or whatever will fit. this resets the pistons, and your lever should contact sooner.

    What he said is a quick fix. It may solve the things, but if not, do a bleed. Reset your pistons in their bores. Check you pads. After all that, then you can fine tune the lever reach and contact point, and do the above mentioned trick to fine tune things feel wise.
    I believe the clouds in my coffee more than the weatherman on t.v.

  6. #6
    26r grudgemonkey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtbikedude View Post
    It just takes a small bubble to cause problems. If the pads are in good shape AND it has been happening since you first bought the brakes (are you the original owner?) then there is a good chance they need to bleed. Have that done and if it still persists then there cound be a problem with the seals or the connection between the lines and caliper/master cylinder.

    Do you notice any fluid on the hoses, caliper or rotor? If not then just bleed 'em

    Most systems are bleed properly but you do get one with air in the lines from time to time.

    DBD
    Yes, I am the original owner. No visible leaks.

  7. #7
    26r grudgemonkey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fosmith View Post
    NO! they don't need to be bled. Not a juicy owner myself, but i have dealt with them times too numerous to count.

    take your wheel out, sqeeze the lever once with the wheel out, reinstall wheel. if it won't fit between the pads, spread them a little with a clean screwdriver, cone wrench or whatever will fit. this resets the pistons, and your lever should contact sooner.
    Thanks... Ill give that a try.

  8. #8
    Gravity Is Yer Friend dirtbikedude's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fosmith View Post
    NO! they don't need to be bled. Not a juicy owner myself, but i have dealt with them times too numerous to count.

    take your wheel out, sqeeze the lever once with the wheel out, reinstall wheel. if it won't fit between the pads, spread them a little with a clean screwdriver, cone wrench or whatever will fit. this resets the pistons, and your lever should contact sooner.

    As mentioned, this is a quick fix but what it does is move the air that is in the lines to another spot, same with turning the bike upside down. The problem will go away but will eventually come back and it could happen at a very inopportune time.

    If the system is properly built and bleed properly then what you, and many others, are experiencing should not happen, at least not with a new system. I have yet to find a pre-bled system that has not had SOME air in the lines either from being tossed around during shipping, someone at the factory being a bit tired, etc etc etc. and while a small bubble may not affect the brakes for a while, it will eventually move to where it will.

  9. #9
    sarcasm meter: jerk mode santiago's Avatar
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    I had a similar problem with brand new Formula brakes I installed on my bike. I had one that was exactly as you described. Although they were supposed to be pre-bled, doing a bleed job did the trick. A huge air bubble came through and that one brake felt perfect afterward.
    First Class Jerk

  10. #10
    26r grudgemonkey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fosmith View Post
    NO! they don't need to be bled. Not a juicy owner myself, but i have dealt with them times too numerous to count.

    take your wheel out, sqeeze the lever once with the wheel out, reinstall wheel. if it won't fit between the pads, spread them a little with a clean screwdriver, cone wrench or whatever will fit. this resets the pistons, and your lever should contact sooner.

    Quote Originally Posted by scrublover View Post
    What he said is a quick fix. It may solve the things, but if not, do a bleed. Reset your pistons in their bores. Check you pads. After all that, then you can fine tune the lever reach and contact point, and do the above mentioned trick to fine tune things feel wise.

    Well, I tried that and it worked great... for about 3 miles of a 18 mile training ride for an upcoming race. All of a sudden I was going down a hill and the lever was floored on the grip.

    Why does this work for a little while? It was a quick fix and it did not last long...

    Anyway... now I will be ordering a bleed kit and springing a few extra bucks for 2-day shipping.

  11. #11
    Senior Member
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    The Avid bleed kit is super easy to use. Here is a video from Avid about the procedure. The instructions are really good but I found watching the video a few times made it even easier.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6mg6NbIjmOM

  12. #12
    26r grudgemonkey's Avatar
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    ^^ There are a bunch of good videos from SRAM tech. Definitely a nice resource.

  13. #13
    Te mortuo heres tibi sim? scrublover's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grudgemonkey View Post
    Well, I tried that and it worked great... for about 3 miles of a 18 mile training ride for an upcoming race. All of a sudden I was going down a hill and the lever was floored on the grip.

    Why does this work for a little while? It was a quick fix and it did not last long...

    Anyway... now I will be ordering a bleed kit and springing a few extra bucks for 2-day shipping.
    Quick fix because it resets the pistons in the bores, which is fine if things are just out of adjustment from side to side. But if you indeed have air in the lines, the air will still cause problems. Meaning you still need a bleed. If you don't have any other problems, then the issue isn't air in the lines. Sort of a way to rule out if it's air or just adjustment.
    I believe the clouds in my coffee more than the weatherman on t.v.

  14. #14
    26r grudgemonkey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scrublover View Post
    Quick fix because it resets the pistons in the bores, which is fine if things are just out of adjustment from side to side. But if you indeed have air in the lines, the air will still cause problems. Meaning you still need a bleed. If you don't have any other problems, then the issue isn't air in the lines. Sort of a way to rule out if it's air or just adjustment.
    If it was not for the awesome stopping power compared to my old BB7's I would regret going hydro. I'll bleed, it'll work, and I am on my way... thanks for the advice.

  15. #15
    Te mortuo heres tibi sim? scrublover's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grudgemonkey View Post
    If it was not for the awesome stopping power compared to my old BB7's I would regret going hydro. I'll bleed, it'll work, and I am on my way... thanks for the advice.
    Yep. Bleeding Juicy's is pretty easy. Just take your time and follow the steps well to get a good bleed.
    I believe the clouds in my coffee more than the weatherman on t.v.

  16. #16
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    which is why I run mechs.

  17. #17
    Te mortuo heres tibi sim? scrublover's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cheeto View Post
    which is why I run mechs.

    Oh, you mean the one up front? That you just got? That you had to ask here about how to run the cable?

    Yeah, you have soooooo much extensive disc brake experience.

    For what it's worth, I've had two Avid mech calipers catastrophically fail on me in the past. Yes, all properly setup and everything. Juicys? One set of seals that needed replacing, and some bleeding is all. I'd rather that. Avid mechs work. Avid Juicys work better. For me, and many others. Maybe not some.

    Absolute statements about that sort of thing are worthless.
    I believe the clouds in my coffee more than the weatherman on t.v.

  18. #18
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    ^ You don't know sarcasm very well do you? You just live to jump all over me.
    I was open to suggestion on how to run the cable, as I've seen it done different ways. So get your crap right before you try to put me down.

    Thanks, and have a good day.

  19. #19
    26r grudgemonkey's Avatar
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    UPDATE:

    Ordered the bleed kit from Performance w/ 2 day shipping and it showed up in 1 day.

    Got home from work & watched the SRAM Tech YouTube Video.

    Bled the front, bled the read. Easier than installing new cables. Easy as chaining a tire.

    Big air bubbles in BOTH lines from the factory. Perhaps whoever was on bleed duty at the Avid factory might have been sniffing DOT fluid that day. Either way, they are all good now although I am annoyed I had to spend $30 on that overpriced kit.

  20. #20
    Official Website Waterboy born2bahick's Avatar
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    Hope they work well for you now! Mine have always been great stoppers, and seem to age like fine wine.

  21. #21
    26r grudgemonkey's Avatar
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    ^^ Funny that mine were always great stoppers - I just couldn't stand bringing the lever almost all the way down to the bar to stop

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