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Old 09-16-08, 05:57 PM   #1
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Had'nuff

I dunno what else to do with these brakes.

The front is fine, but the rear has a "two-fold" issue. As I ease in on the lever, it shrieks like a Velociraptor. As I apply more pressure it begins to warble like a Turkey and shudder and pulsate.

Brand new Avid Codes. 2004 Jamis Komodo frame.

I've tried new pads and new rotor...nothing changes.

I already know that Codes are way overkill for my frame...any ideas???




I'm about ready to sell them to the highest bidder and get me some BB7's and call it good. My Juicy5's did the same thing...this is what's odd to me. They weren't always this way...just baffling.


No crashes or hard landings either.


I punt.
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Old 09-16-08, 06:00 PM   #2
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Stroker Trails. You will not regret it.
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Old 09-16-08, 06:02 PM   #3
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Try sanding the pads a bit.

Oh, and check that the wheel(s) is tight, etc., nothing loose to vibrate. Jeez, hard to believe it's the damn brakes.
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Old 09-16-08, 06:03 PM   #4
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Dang noob. Just eat some cheetos and go for a ride.....Gosh!
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Old 09-16-08, 06:09 PM   #5
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Ed, did ya work on burnin' them puppies in?
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Old 09-16-08, 06:29 PM   #6
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tighten all the rotor bolts good and use some light threadlocker
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Old 09-16-08, 06:56 PM   #7
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Try sanding the pads a bit.

Oh, and check that the wheel(s) is tight, etc., nothing loose to vibrate. Jeez, hard to believe it's the damn brakes.
Brand new pads. Same as the old brand new pads.

Wheel is tight and "re-tight".

Everything tight.
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Old 09-16-08, 06:57 PM   #8
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Ed, did ya work on burnin' them puppies in?
Tried burning easy and tried burning hard.

They shriek like mad!!
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Old 09-16-08, 06:57 PM   #9
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tighten all the rotor bolts good and use some light threadlocker
Rotors removed, checked, threadlocker applied, and re-tightened.


I'm just baffled!!
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Old 09-16-08, 07:12 PM   #10
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Face the tabs.
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Old 09-16-08, 07:13 PM   #11
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Non-metallic pads, right? Caliper may be just ever so slightly not straight. Check to be sure you're getting full contact pad to rotor - once in a while someone (with any brake company) can end up with and adapter slightly out of spec, meaning things won't set up right during install.

Otherwise, I dunno. The few noise issues I had early on with my Avids were solved with non-metallic pads and ditching the wavy rotors for round. Granted all with the Juicy line - no experience with Codes.
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Old 09-16-08, 07:14 PM   #12
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maybe some antisqeal stuff for car brakes between the back of the pad and the cylinder that pushes on them.. The squeaking is just a very fast vibration, do you feel it coming through the frame?
maybe try a different pad compound.

On my disc brakes they squeal like mad when they are wet and you feel the vibration all through the frame.
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Old 09-16-08, 07:25 PM   #13
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You may need to face the caliper mounting tabs, check the spacers, or hub body may be out of round. If you have another wheel laying around or can borrow, try it with your new rotor-good luck.
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Old 09-16-08, 07:28 PM   #14
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Face the tabs.
Faced
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Old 09-16-08, 07:28 PM   #15
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Non-metallic pads, right? Caliper may be just ever so slightly not straight. Check to be sure you're getting full contact pad to rotor - once in a while someone (with any brake company) can end up with and adapter slightly out of spec, meaning things won't set up right during install.

Otherwise, I dunno. The few noise issues I had early on with my Avids were solved with non-metallic pads and ditching the wavy rotors for round. Granted all with the Juicy line - no experience with Codes.
Organic pads with g2 rotors

Tri-align feature should negate any "slightly not straight" thingys. It gets centered on the rotor just fine.
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Old 09-16-08, 07:30 PM   #16
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maybe some antisqeal stuff for car brakes between the back of the pad and the cylinder that pushes on them.. The squeaking is just a very fast vibration, do you feel it coming through the frame?
maybe try a different pad compound.

On my disc brakes they squeal like mad when they are wet and you feel the vibration all through the frame.
Thought about that, but the "warble and shudder" feeling is not going to be solved with that stuff. It feels as if the pads are "grabbing" every section of metal between vents and "letting go" at the vents. Fine at high speeds, but crap for slower speeds.
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Old 09-16-08, 07:36 PM   #17
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Thought about that, but the "warble and shudder" feeling is not going to be solved with that stuff. It feels as if the pads are "grabbing" every section of metal between vents and "letting go" at the vents. Fine at high speeds, but crap for slower speeds.
Huh. I got nothing then. Four pads in each caliper, right? Not all the pads contacting evenly/at the same time?
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Old 09-16-08, 07:48 PM   #18
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try swapping the pads from the front, which are "fine" to the back , or swap rotors if they are the same size and start ruling out everything but the caliper.
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Old 09-16-08, 07:49 PM   #19
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Huh. I got nothing then. Four pads in each caliper, right? Not all the pads contacting evenly/at the same time?
Two pads in each caliper, 4 pistons in each caliper. All are lined up and moving fine.
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Old 09-16-08, 07:53 PM   #20
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Apply anti brake squeal spray from an auto parts store to the back of the pads, and change to an organic pad.
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Old 09-16-08, 07:54 PM   #21
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try swapping the pads from the front, which are "fine" to the back , or swap rotors if they are the same size and start ruling out everything but the caliper.
I did rotors and I installed brand spanking new organic pads today on the rear. As soon as they got bedded in, they sound and feel like absolute anus.


My only other theory is that possibly the left half of my triangle is not stout enough to manage that much brake. It seems far fetched, I know. It just doesn't make sense otherwise.

I notice that if I grab my rear wheel and seatpost, I can flex it back and forth enough to see the rotor move laterally about 1/2mm or so. Not much, but maybe just enough flex to allow some serious resonance and torsional alignment issues.

The thing that doesn't make sense is that I ran my Juicy 5s for a while on this frame with no issues. All the sudden, new EBC pads and the warbling started. With the Codes, the saga continues.

What the crap?
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Old 09-16-08, 07:55 PM   #22
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Apply anti brake squeal spray from an auto parts store to the back of the pads, and change to an organic pad.
Thanks, but read above.

I'm running organics. There's more to it than just a squeak. There's a pulsating shudder too.
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Old 09-16-08, 07:56 PM   #23
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I did rotors and I installed brand spanking new organic pads today on the rear. As soon as they got bedded in, they sound and feel like absolute anus.
Is that a new flavor of Vodka?
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Old 09-16-08, 08:02 PM   #24
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I did rotors and I installed brand spanking new organic pads today on the rear. As soon as they got bedded in, they sound and feel like absolute anus.


My only other theory is that possibly the left half of my triangle is not stout enough to manage that much brake. It seems far fetched, I know. It just doesn't make sense otherwise.

What the crap?
That sounds possible. You could just order up a Juicy caliper and swap that in, keeping the nice Code lever. Order the caliper and a new hose kit for it (which has the banjo and everything else you'd need to swap), keeping the old Code stuff for later resale or whatever.
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Old 09-16-08, 08:09 PM   #25
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This may sound silly, but when I changed my brakes last year I was getting something similar to what you described. I had less shudder than you described but I kept getting a squeal and a minor clunking noise. I went crazy and assumed it was the brakes.

I did a million things and then decided to lube my QR axles. Maybe it was only coincidence that the brakes went on or maybe the new brakes magnified this. Step away from the brakes for a second and see if there's anything else that could be causing this. Start with the QR axles.
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