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Old 10-22-08, 09:00 AM   #1
Servo888
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Budget Light Weight Conversion...

My current hard tail is heavy... Oh 30 some pounds I would guess. I've been thinking about cutting the fat, cheaply, with minimal spending.

Current Ideas:
1) Replace shock /w aluminum rigid (currently have a Rock Shock J1)
2) Remove the front derailleur /w shifter
3) Drop two chain rings / reduce chain length, depending on which rings I drop (wont save much weight, but I wont need such a long chain if I use a smaller chain ring)
4) Get lighter tires when my current ones wear out.

90% of my riding is on gravel / sandy trails, going up + down hills with a rock garden / wood pile here and there. So I will get a harsher ride, but the climbs should get easier, so I figure it will be a fair trade off. Any other suggestions?
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Old 10-22-08, 10:45 AM   #2
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"1) Replace shock /w aluminum rigid"
Will slow you down everywhere except smooth ground. Bone up for a decent 3.5lb fork with a lockout for the climbs.

"2) Remove the front derailleur /w shifter"
What's a /w shifter? (I am all 'bout the 1x9 setup) Removing the front der., shifter, and rings could save you 1/2lb or so. In the grand scheme of things...that ain't spit.

"3) Drop two chain rings / reduce chain length, depending on which rings I drop (wont save much weight, but I wont need such a long chain if I use a smaller chain ring)"
Keep the middle.

"4) Get lighter tires when my current ones wear out."
Get some Kenda Nevegal 2.1" DTC's.


The most noticeable weight savings will be a good/light wheelset and some decent meats.

30lbs really isn't that bad unless you're a whiny-weight-weenie.
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Old 10-22-08, 10:50 AM   #3
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Sounds like a good SS conversion candidate.

Edit: It might suck in loose terrain though.
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Old 10-22-08, 11:42 AM   #4
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30lbs really isn't that bad unless you're a whiny-weight-weenie.
Lately I've been riding road on my 20lb bike, and it's amazing. I really want something similar to it, but in an off road fashion. The 1x9 is not so much so for weight savings, as it is for simplicity. I run down tube shifters on my roadie, and I love'em!
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Old 10-22-08, 11:55 AM   #5
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What weight are you shooting for? Know that a 20 lb bike off road is a little different than on road.
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Old 10-22-08, 02:29 PM   #6
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20lb road bike is roughly equivalent to a 30lb mountain bike ratio-wise. But get a new fork, technology will be better and lighter. Or just new tires.
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Old 10-22-08, 02:35 PM   #7
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My bike is around 30 pounds, and it seems fine to me. . .
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Old 10-22-08, 06:42 PM   #8
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20lb road bike is roughly equivalent to a 30lb mountain bike ratio-wise. But get a new fork, technology will be better and lighter. Or just new tires.
Price wise....

A $1,400 road bike will weigh around 18-19 pounds. My ($2,100) MTB weighs a tad over 30.


EDIT- Oops. My MTB is FS. S'pose you're right.
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Old 10-22-08, 07:16 PM   #9
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^^^^^^^
What kind?
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Old 10-22-08, 07:21 PM   #10
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Price wise....

A $1,400 road bike will weigh around 18-19 pounds. My ($2,100) MTB weighs a tad over 30.


EDIT- Oops. My MTB is FS. S'pose you're right.
Yeah, but I've built a 1k mtb in the 26lb range. That's not a great comparison. The Stumpy hardtail that was like $1100-$1300 a few yrs ago was 24-25lbs.
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Old 10-22-08, 07:44 PM   #11
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Couple things you could do is get a nicer wheelset, light xc fork, throw on a carbon handlebar (Performance Bike has a carbon riser that's cheap and good)

http://www.performancebike.com/shop/...slisearch=true

Get some Maxxis Crossmarks.

This would be done is steps of course, but the fork and wheels with tires are key to losing weight.
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Old 10-22-08, 08:10 PM   #12
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That's the thing... A rigid fork is 2lbs or less... Cheap too. I just don't know how bad the ride will be.
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Old 10-22-08, 08:34 PM   #13
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Yeah, but I've built a 1k mtb in the 26lb range. That's not a great comparison. The Stumpy hardtail that was like $1100-$1300 a few yrs ago was 24-25lbs.
I know. I have a full susser. Of course hardtails will be lighter, which I realized in my OP.
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Old 10-22-08, 08:39 PM   #14
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Yeah, my $2400 road bike is 17ish lb and my $3100 mtb is 25lb, albeit FS. So pretty close.
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Old 10-23-08, 06:12 AM   #15
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I have two bikes right now, one is being sold. My Ti hardtail weighs 18.7 lbs. It is 24 speed, has a SID WorldCup fork, 160mm Hope disc brakes, and there is nothing trimmed to reduce weight. It is intrinsically light. A 2.8 lb frame, 1600gm wheelset, 570gm crankset, add up to that. My Yeti AS-R Carbon is 24 lbs, and is also fully rigged. 30 lbs seems like a tough weight to build to. I am imagining a steel BB spindle, steel axles, a steel steerer tube on the fork, and a lot of Aluminum where carbon could be used fairly inexpensively. Seatpost, bars, crankarms, that sort of stuff. Ti could be a good alternative for your BB, cassette, and any other weighty items. It is far less expensive to get a really good seatpost and handlebar than say a cassette, since you will have the bars and post for a long time. They don't typically "wear out". As for stuff that does wear, just wait until it does, and get something lighter (preferably stronger also, like if you have a SRAM 790 cassette and want a new one, get an XTR, they weigh almost literally half as much).
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Old 10-23-08, 07:57 AM   #16
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The rigid fork is a nice idea for a second bike, but it really gets old when you have to "white knuckle" a moderately rough section of trail that you could normally just blow through. It's more work for sure. I have a rigid beater that won't give up the ghost. I take it out now and then when the weather is crap. It's fun and challenging but I wouldn't give up my suspended front end fo'nuttin.
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Old 10-23-08, 07:58 AM   #17
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I have two bikes right now, one is being sold. My Ti hardtail weighs 18.7 lbs. It is 24 speed, has a SID WorldCup fork, 160mm Hope disc brakes, and there is nothing trimmed to reduce weight. It is intrinsically light. A 2.8 lb frame, 1600gm wheelset, 570gm crankset, add up to that. My Yeti AS-R Carbon is 24 lbs, and is also fully rigged. 30 lbs seems like a tough weight to build to. I am imagining a steel BB spindle, steel axles, a steel steerer tube on the fork, and a lot of Aluminum where carbon could be used fairly inexpensively. Seatpost, bars, crankarms, that sort of stuff. Ti could be a good alternative for your BB, cassette, and any other weighty items. It is far less expensive to get a really good seatpost and handlebar than say a cassette, since you will have the bars and post for a long time. They don't typically "wear out". As for stuff that does wear, just wait until it does, and get something lighter (preferably stronger also, like if you have a SRAM 790 cassette and want a new one, get an XTR, they weigh almost literally half as much).
Carbon this, ti that...(yawn)...all I hear is that Charlie Brown "adult trumpet" blowing with a little of SNAP, CRACKLE, failure. I've sworn off anything breakable, hahaha.
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Old 10-23-08, 08:46 AM   #18
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Unless you're racing it get used to it... it will be good excersise.

My bike is bout 50pounds AFAIK (I'm pretty such it was 23kg when I weighed it). Can't wait till I get my new 20pound cyclocross bike and start whizzing around on that. Should feel awsome.
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Old 10-23-08, 08:49 AM   #19
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I can understand people who wanna drop some weight on their bikes. I used to be a gram shaving weight weenie with a roadie mindset...lusting after ti and carbon. If you're a lightweight or just not hard on parts...what the heck, may as well do it. For myself...I couldn't even do a 26lb hardtail w/o technical issues, so I'm back to 30.

I could have prob. done a 26lb build with a Banshee Viento frame and an air sprung 120mm fork I guess, but then I'd be limited to a tamer riding style. Now I can be a hack and get away with it.
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Old 10-23-08, 08:54 AM   #20
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I have a Redline Monocog Flight, steel front fork. It's okay around here. The only thing is it can get quite rough when you're going fast and there are repeated bumps right in a row. That's when I feel it the most and it's a 29er. Other than that, it's not bad.

I haven't ridden an Al, so someone else can chime in here, but typically Al, isn't as forgiving. If you really want to lighten up the front, get a CF fork. It should offer a bit better attenuation of some chatter than the Al. Of course, light wheels and tires are usually a quick way to save weight too, depending on what you're ridding now.
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Old 10-23-08, 09:54 AM   #21
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Quote:
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I can understand people who wanna drop some weight on their bikes. I used to be a gram shaving weight weenie with a roadie mindset...lusting after ti and carbon. If you're a lightweight or just not hard on parts...what the heck, may as well do it. For myself...I couldn't even do a 26lb hardtail w/o technical issues, so I'm back to 30.

I could have prob. done a 26lb build with a Banshee Viento frame and an air sprung 120mm fork I guess, but then I'd be limited to a tamer riding style. Now I can be a hack and get away with it.
That's kinda why I asked him what he was shooting for. You know, I've got a lightweight hardtail. You also know I don't hit the trails too regularly on it. I find it too light, and it's a heck of a workout just too keep it under me in the rock gardens of Perry. I much prefer the 24 pound hardtail range for myself.
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Old 10-23-08, 10:45 AM   #22
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I think I'd work on the engine first and then see if 30 lbs. is still a burden.
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Old 10-23-08, 10:52 AM   #23
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You are all idiots. You missed two obvious points here: budget and lose weight. The answer is simple. Stop buying food.
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Old 10-23-08, 10:57 AM   #24
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You missed two obvious points here: budget and lose weight
Which is why I say go SS. You can't lose weight any cheaper.
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Old 10-23-08, 02:32 PM   #25
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My method saves money.
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