metalchef87

About 3 months ago I bought a 1990 Rigid Steel Specialized Hardrock Sport. I have made it my project bike. It was in pretty rough shape, although the frame was in very good condition, just a few surface rust spots here and there. I have nearly stripped it of all its paint, and got some new decals for it, I am going to leave it raw steel finish and put lots of clear coat layers on it. Also I have decided to make it a single speed, for simplicity and just because I want to. My question(s) is/are:

What size rear cog should I use? I live in ky and will be trail riding, sometimes riding atv trails that are kinda steep. Also my choices for a chain ring are 28T, 38T, 48T.

Also what are good cheap tires?

Scratcher33

glad to see you made it over here

frankenmike 

2:1 ratio is a good starting point. You could use any of the chainrings.

MTwallet

I second frankenmike's opinion. 2:1 is a good start for trail riding.
Use a 19t cog with the 38t chainring, or a 14t with the 28. Might be hard to find a 24t to use with the 48 though.
The 28/14 combo will give you more ground clearance and be a few ounces lighter if that's a consideration, but the 38/19 combo will likely last longer and should be less likely to skip with a hard effort (ie. climbing a hill) as more cog teeth will be engaged at any one time.

I myself use a 18t with a 36T for trail riding and switch to a 16t for the street.


MT

apclassic9

WV has LOTS of SS MTB riders, and even has a racing class for the gear challenged. You might ask this Q on the wvmba.com forum page....

C Law

how cheap is cheap?

You can get many tire patterns with a wire bead and they are usually dirt cheap. check Jenson or Pricepoint.

junkyard

where is the elf? he'll have some good suggestions on single speed setup.

dminor 

haha i'd jus wrap lacrosse grip tape around the shifters an make it wher i'd have to pedal harder to go faster or slower. lol.

_____________

Lacrosse rules.















There - - that sound about right?

ed 

Kenda has a closeout page. You just call them directly on one of the two listed numbers and you can get some good deals on some not-so-popular stuff.

Right now, the only thing they are offering for MTB 26" is a Klaw rear tire which is similar to a Veliceraptor with less bulk...but keep your eyes peeled.

Zan

32/16 is common. if you go for a smaller set of gears (same ratio), it'll be ever so slightly lighter, and you'll get more clearance, but won't last as long.

c_m_shooter

If your trails are steep 2:1 is going to be a little tough. I would go 28/16 or 38/21. You can always change when you get stronger.

steve the tank

I'm a total novice and I rock 36x18. It seems to be a decent ratio for me.

surreal

i ride a 32/19 on a 29er, which'd be danged close to a 38/20 on your 26er. I'd rather spin a lot and get to the top of the hill, and sacrifice some oomph on the downhill. If you don't mind walking up as often, go for something harder. If you're going to be converting a cassette hub with "regular" cogs, consider this thing https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=1569. For $19, you can really experiment with some different sizes, most being best with the 28t ring. Incidentally, I reckon you have an older 110/74mm 5-bolt pattern crank, and the 28t is on the 74mm inner position. This could cause chainline issues if you're running a real singlespeed hub, rather'n a converted standard cassette hub. If you're using a cassette hub, just run the cog inboard and tweak the chainline with spacers.

Incidentally, if you're converting a 1990 hardrock to SS, you might be trying to save money. Doing a SS "right" will rarely save $$. Doing a singlespeed "cheap" usually won't allow for a lot of options. If cheap is a huge priority, do yourself a favor, get a new wheelset with a cassette hub (there's always cheap deore/rhynolites online for $100ish), get the $19 rear cogset, and get a 34t ring so you can run it in the center position(budget around $35). Splurge, and get a new 3/32" chain ($10 or so.) For $175, you've replaced the whole drivetrain, unless your crankarms and bb are seriously knackered. That's pretty cheap, and at least it'd be new stuff. Once you find the rear cog you like, get a decent replacement cog in the same size (i like the surly cogs; they're easy on the freehub body in terms of digging/wear) which will cost you $20+ for just the one cog, but it'll be less likely to damage your hub than the cheapies from shimano, sinz, etc.

hth,
-rob