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  1. #1
    Blue Light Special kmart's Avatar
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    Tried to swap out my rear shock - bolts, mount holes don't match :(

    I bought a new rear shock online that was a take off from a Trek Fuel. The eye-eye and stroke length matched what I have on my MTB, which is not a Trek Fuel. I figured I could just use the bushings and mounting bolts from my old shock (a 5th element coil shock) but I'm stuck...The hollow cylinders for receiving the mounting bolts at the top and bottom of the shock aren't quite right. The top cylinder is a few mm short in length and a little small in diameter, so if I use the bushings from my old shock they overhang past the mounting cylinder and wobble around a bit. On the bottom mounting cylinder, the hole is too small to accept the mounting bolt from my old shock but the length is correct.

    Can these cylinders be removed? I was thinking that I could just swap the cylinder and bushings from my old shock to the new one, but the cylinders seem to be rigidly attached.
    Last edited by kmart; 01-08-09 at 12:07 AM.
    Quote Originally Posted by KrisPistofferson View Post
    racer x flies across cobblestones with a grimace of determination, three feet of seatpost, bars level with ankles, carbon fiber frame with Kryptonite lugs and a millimeter clearance between the fork and the 700x21c tires. This gives everyone a *****

  2. #2
    Small Member maddmaxx's Avatar
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    https://www.bikeparts.com/productsea...yName=&selType=

    Places like this may be of help.

  3. #3
    Member noonito's Avatar
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    Usually if you replace the rear shock, you need to buy new mounting hardware that matches the new shock. Many online retailers carry mounting hardware, just make sure the hardware is meant for your brand of shock. You also need to carefully measure the distance between the mounting tabs on your frame in order to get the correct size hardware. The shock should not wobble or move at all when mounted.

  4. #4
    one less horse cryptid01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by noonito View Post
    The shock should not wobble or move at all when mounted.
    Unless it was designed to, e.g. CCDB

  5. #5
    Rat Bastard mcoomer's Avatar
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    When I swapped out my Manitou Swinger to a Fox DHX I had to order new bushings and spacers. I imagine that you will to. I emailed Cdale and they hooked me up so I'd recommend contacting the manufacturer and asking them what you'll need. You may get lucky and get some free hardware.

    Mike
    It's better to burn out than fade away...or slip out of your pedal and face plant on the side of the road!!!

    '06 Cannondale Prophet
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  6. #6
    Blue Light Special kmart's Avatar
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    Thanks for the tips. A few more questions:
    How do I remove the old mounting hardware from the shock? The barrel seems press fitted into the eyelet really tightly. I'm having trouble with the top piece, the one that connects to the swingarm, as it seems to be a single-piece barrel pressed into the eyelet and centered. For the bottom hardware that attaches the shock to the frame, it's very easy as the barrel is two pieces loosely pressed into the eyelet from either side (I got that one out with pliers).

    And, once I get the new hardware, how do I install the barrels into the shock eyelets so that they are centered?

    The kits sold by rock shox are a "3-piece set". Does anyone know what that includes? I guess it would be a barrel thing and 2 bushings, but does include the frame mount bolt as well?
    Last edited by kmart; 01-08-09 at 01:04 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by KrisPistofferson View Post
    racer x flies across cobblestones with a grimace of determination, three feet of seatpost, bars level with ankles, carbon fiber frame with Kryptonite lugs and a millimeter clearance between the fork and the 700x21c tires. This gives everyone a *****

  7. #7
    Old School Rad mtnbiker66's Avatar
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    Gnar riders make there own bushing kits for that super custom look.
    Like a circus monkey on a stolen Harley......

  8. #8
    Blue Light Special kmart's Avatar
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    I asked at the bike shop and was told that the hardware will likely be self aligning, so insertion is easy. Removal involves punching out the old shock while supporting it around the eyelet edges with a socket of some kind.
    Quote Originally Posted by KrisPistofferson View Post
    racer x flies across cobblestones with a grimace of determination, three feet of seatpost, bars level with ankles, carbon fiber frame with Kryptonite lugs and a millimeter clearance between the fork and the 700x21c tires. This gives everyone a *****

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