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Old 01-22-09, 10:12 PM   #1
btjzx6rr
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got my new bike, now need to fix it!

so i bought a specialized rockhopper comp disc on fleabay, and its in need of some light work, as i expected. First real mountain big since an old GT i had a long time ago, i think it will be fun!

biggest trouble i am having is trying to get the cranck arms off, i have a bunch f puller sets for automotive stuff, i am thinking as long as i find something to actually fit on the end of the BB then just using that puller will work. anyone tried this?

next question, the cranks are shimano fcm 442 on the left arm i seem to be missing the center bolt that hold the arm on, even though the arm doesnt have any issue staying on, as it doent come off easy. is there any way to get this bolt by itself? is it something the lbs should have?

one other question, the fd is a clamp on unit. its dirty and im thinking about taking it off to clean it, but im worried about lining it back up if i do take it off. Is it hard to do? or is it a ball park thing anyway.

thanks guys,
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Old 01-22-09, 10:27 PM   #2
sirtigersalot
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crankd bolts screw into the bottom bracket and are a standard sizing, there are 3 types (excluding external bb) the basic hex bolt for cheepo bikes, a normal square tappered style bolt, and a bolt for an isis/octalink bottom bracket, you can get the bolt at your lbs fore pretty dang cheep, and since your are missing the bolt anyway you could justget some self extracting bolts then you wouldn't need a special tool to pull the cranks.

i wouldn't recoment using an autmotive pulley puller, i feel like you might damage somthin prolly be fine but a crank puller is like 12 bucks or self extracting bolts are even less, they have a special part that threads into the crank arm and then the bolt threads into the bb like normal, so when you unscrew the bolt stays in the crank arms but the arms come off the bike, basically the bolt pushes on the cap piece thats threaded into the crank arms

why do you need them off? if its a bottom bracket problem you need a special tool that i assume you don't have since you don't have a crank puller

as for the front derail thats pretty easy i wouldn't say cakewalk, but its not a big deal, what is harder is getting the cable tensoin reset. For the FD to line it up what you want is it to be strait inline with the rings, and the bottom of the derail to be 1-2mm from the teeth of the big ring.

Last edited by sirtigersalot; 01-22-09 at 10:32 PM.
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Old 01-23-09, 11:40 PM   #3
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no problem with the bottom bracket, i was trying to take them off so i could clean it all out well, and lube it, but if its a fully sealed unit, i guess thats not really an option(seems most are sealed stuff, didnt know this) was just going to pull them off to clean and inspect everything.

i just busted out some simple green and a scrub brush, all clean now.

still need to get that screw, but got everything back together, and rode it around the backyard some, ok at 12:15 in the morning. Once i figured out how the shifters work, it seems to be a pretty good ride.

anyway, thanks for the help
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