Opinions needed to help with a 'slipping chain'.
#1
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Opinions needed to help with a 'slipping chain'.
I've only been cycling for a few months, but I keep having an issue with my bike.
The problem is as follows: When I am riding my bike my chain seems to 'jump/slip' forward suddenly, which causes my the pedal that I'm pushing forward to jerk forward.
I took my bike to the shop where I brought it from and they had a fiddle, but the issue is still there.
This problem occurs when I am standing while cycling (i.e. going up a hill) and when I am putting some force onto my pedals, because of this I was wondering if my problem is a result of my riding style, rather than being a result of my bike.
The mountain bike that I am having a problem with is a GT Aggressor XC3, the gears changers are Acera Shimano's and I have 24 gears and the crankset is by SR Santour (if that information is of any use).
I hope you lot can help me as I am really getting in to mountain biking, but this issues is worrying me. Thank you for any help!!!!
The problem is as follows: When I am riding my bike my chain seems to 'jump/slip' forward suddenly, which causes my the pedal that I'm pushing forward to jerk forward.
I took my bike to the shop where I brought it from and they had a fiddle, but the issue is still there.
This problem occurs when I am standing while cycling (i.e. going up a hill) and when I am putting some force onto my pedals, because of this I was wondering if my problem is a result of my riding style, rather than being a result of my bike.
The mountain bike that I am having a problem with is a GT Aggressor XC3, the gears changers are Acera Shimano's and I have 24 gears and the crankset is by SR Santour (if that information is of any use).
I hope you lot can help me as I am really getting in to mountain biking, but this issues is worrying me. Thank you for any help!!!!
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Normally, I'd say it's a worn out drivetrain, but your bike is only a couple months old? It's fine until you put the power down and then it "jumps" a tooth?
#4
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I brought my bike from Halfords in England, how hard is it to adjust the rear derailer. Should I attempt to do it myself, or should I take it back to the shop for them to do it. I want to become good at maintaining my bike, but I obviously don't want to damage it by doing maintenance that is to complex for me.
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I got my bike last summer, but I have hardly used it. So I don't think that it can be anything that has worn out. I think that the chain is jumping the teeth on my gear cassettes, possibly on the forward one.
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Derailer adjustment isn't to hard. It just takes practice and a little trial and error. The website above has is a great place to start. I would try it your self and if your problem isn't fixed then I would take it to the shop and have them do it but ask if you could watch them to learn how to do.
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Riding style could be the problem. Shift to a lower (easier) gear earlier before you start up hill. Learning the gears and adjusting them to fit the situation will be very helpful.
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in order of issue importance/cost - assuming wheel alignment is not an issue
check RD adjustment (rear Derail)...EDIT - not FD, my dyslexic senior-osity... (but gimme my discount!)
check chain condition/lube, check for tight links
check cable and cable run for problems - replace worn cables
check that chain is proper spec for cogset - 7&8 spd use one type, 9 spd uses another
check that you're not using incompatible RD and shifter (as in SRAM and Shimano together)
check chain for stretch, if more than .75%, replace chain
if chain is stretched beyond 1% limit - then needs new chain AND cassette
check cogs which skip for wear - replace worn cogs or entire cassette
if the chain is OK and not stretched, the easiest way to check the cogs (if you don;t really know what you're looking for when inspecting cogs) is to get a 'good' cassette and put it on. If the skipping stops, you have an answer...
ALWAYS replace the chain when replacing a cassette - a partially worn chain will prematurely wear out new cogs - a new chain is cheaper than again replacing the cassette in the not far future.
ALWAYS check your chains for stretch in about 300 mile intervals or so; in order to 'catch' worn chains BEFORE they get to 1% stretch... shorter intervals if you do rides which require a lot of sudden hard crankin, intervals or accels...
EDIT - one other thing, since bike is relatively new - if the chain is a bit too long, dependin on the ring and cog set you're in, it may skip also. If you're crosschaining heavily, that can also allow the chain to skip.
often its a combo of small issues, none of which alone will cause a skip - dirty, rusty, sticky chain with a tight link, crosschained, and standing to hump over some unexpected obstacle or body (like the rider who biff'd directly in front of you ...)
check RD adjustment (rear Derail)...EDIT - not FD, my dyslexic senior-osity... (but gimme my discount!)
check chain condition/lube, check for tight links
check cable and cable run for problems - replace worn cables
check that chain is proper spec for cogset - 7&8 spd use one type, 9 spd uses another
check that you're not using incompatible RD and shifter (as in SRAM and Shimano together)
check chain for stretch, if more than .75%, replace chain
if chain is stretched beyond 1% limit - then needs new chain AND cassette
check cogs which skip for wear - replace worn cogs or entire cassette
if the chain is OK and not stretched, the easiest way to check the cogs (if you don;t really know what you're looking for when inspecting cogs) is to get a 'good' cassette and put it on. If the skipping stops, you have an answer...
ALWAYS replace the chain when replacing a cassette - a partially worn chain will prematurely wear out new cogs - a new chain is cheaper than again replacing the cassette in the not far future.
ALWAYS check your chains for stretch in about 300 mile intervals or so; in order to 'catch' worn chains BEFORE they get to 1% stretch... shorter intervals if you do rides which require a lot of sudden hard crankin, intervals or accels...
EDIT - one other thing, since bike is relatively new - if the chain is a bit too long, dependin on the ring and cog set you're in, it may skip also. If you're crosschaining heavily, that can also allow the chain to skip.
often its a combo of small issues, none of which alone will cause a skip - dirty, rusty, sticky chain with a tight link, crosschained, and standing to hump over some unexpected obstacle or body (like the rider who biff'd directly in front of you ...)
Last edited by cyclezen; 03-19-09 at 11:32 AM.