Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: The Summit of Lee
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Everything that I've learned and researched says you should be on something like a 16" frame. You're at that transitional height, so it's kind of a "toss-up". Specialized makes this bike in a 15" and 17". If you're going to err on the side of just going out and riding trails, cross country, exploring, throwing the hammer down...pedaling like a miggly-figgly, then I'd say stick with the 17". If you're going to be "flow riding" doing technical singletrack with some gnarly'ness to the trail, jumping, styling it out in the air, hopping up on obstacles...then I'd say take it back and get a 15" so you have a little more room in the TT area.
If you keep it, you could scoot your saddle back around 3/4" to 1". Don't have it clamp all the way in the front of the rails, b/c you can bend the saddle rails that way.
If you want proper leg extension for "Cross Country" style riding, your saddle (seatpost) could be raised up a bit. You want your leg slightly less than locked at full extension.
If you ride more technical riding, then your saddle height is fine. It'll give ya more room to move around and bunnyhop stuff.
Specialized kinda pisses me off with their design lately. The top tube curves the wrong way for mountain biking. This IMO necessitates a smaller than normal frame. I think they're cool looking and a dang nice line of bikes, but I would prefer to get a big enough frame to have a nice long top tube, tall front end, slack, but have the top tube slope down out of the way. The perfect frame design for me (HT) would be more like the Kinesis Pha5e or like the Scrub's Peyto where the top tube is exaggeratedly downward, but there is sort of a "mast" welded to it to support a tall enough seat tube for good saddle height.
Last edited by ed; 05-17-09 at 07:04 AM.