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  1. #1
    Senior Member mindbogger's Avatar
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    The Usefullness of Lockout

    Last Sunday I went for a ride at my usually trail. There are 5 major hills which are steep, somewhat eroded and what not. Ive ridden it many times and usually I can climb 1 of the 5 hills before i get rear wheel slippage or just get too burnt out.

    THis time I decided to put my ETA adjustement (locks the fork down) to good use seeing that i rarely use it. Lemme tell you, I was hammering those hills. I was putting my friends using clipless to shame (I ride on platforms and only platforms). I just got some much more power transfered to the rear wheel. So of the 5 hills, I was able to climb every single one of them.

    THe only problem is the switch is right by the leg of the fork and it could get dangerous when I am locking it on/off. I loose concentration when trying to flip the switch. I am in the process of trying to get one of my old thumbshifters to link up with that switch to make a remote lever. Still in the early planning stages.

    If you have lock out....USE IT!

    it might make a big difference in your climbing abilities.
    00' Cannondale R1000
    01' Devinci Chilipepper

    When sh*t hits the fan, everything I'm not, made me everything I am.

  2. #2
    The Rabbi seely's Avatar
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    There is a VERY easy way to make a remote switch using a spoke and a reflector mount, and the thumb part off a thumbshifter. I can try to get pictures from a friend if you want to see how its done.

  3. #3
    NCAA - DUAL CHAMPIONS! a2psyklnut's Avatar
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    Seely,

    I'd be interested in seeing those pictures meerly for the sake of intelectual curiosity.

    L8R
    "Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming, "WOW, What a Ride!" - unknown
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  4. #4
    Senior Member mindbogger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by seely
    There is a VERY easy way to make a remote switch using a spoke and a reflector mount, and the thumb part off a thumbshifter. I can try to get pictures from a friend if you want to see how its done.
    That would be great, I am having trouble making one. Can't get enough tension for the switch to be thrown back.
    00' Cannondale R1000
    01' Devinci Chilipepper

    When sh*t hits the fan, everything I'm not, made me everything I am.

  5. #5
    Wood Licker Maelstrom's Avatar
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    I would love to see that. I have a z1 and would love a remote control.

  6. #6
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    Interesting idea. Sounds like a solid mod.

    I wonder if the big bikemakers read this?

  7. #7
    Industry Maven Thylacine's Avatar
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    If you're a smooth climber, lockout WILL NOT help you climb. Having your front wheel track over bumps at slow speed helps you climb, and does not 'rob' you of any power.

    Your post says to me 'I ride with platforms and pump the forks like a madman when climbing'. I could be wrong, but I can unequivocally say, without a shadow of a doubt, that ETA will not miraculously help you climb hills you couldnt climb yesterday.

    Getting clipped in, pedaling in circles, and having a good setup is what helps you climb. Fullstop. Sorry if I sound preachy, but it's the truth. So says my 17 years of riding mtbs.
    Have you earned your stripes? <<click here / Questions about custom frames? Chat me! - warwickg71 (AIM/iChat) ThylacineCycles (Skype)

  8. #8
    Wood Licker Maelstrom's Avatar
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    Eta is a little unique. BEsides locking out it drops to 0 travel with approx 1in ride height (in the travel itself, not total ride height). It changes the HA approx 2degrees. Which would help quite a bit. But yeah when I go uphill I don't bob my fork at all (not even my jrT) but having the ha steeper helps.

    But yeah...I suck at climbing...with or without eta ...I am sure the only thing that could help me is clipless (and a some more fitness)

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thylacine
    If you're a smooth climber, lockout WILL NOT help you climb. Having your front wheel track over bumps at slow speed helps you climb, and does not 'rob' you of any power.

    P
    I agree. I have lockouts front and rear but use them only if the ride includes significant pavement. The feedback from my full suspension helps me to "spin circles" better which helps my road riding too. On technical climbs, the suspension actually helps me. However, I've been biking for only a few years.

    Al

  10. #10
    Senior Member mindbogger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thylacine
    If you're a smooth climber, lockout WILL NOT help you climb. Having your front wheel track over bumps at slow speed helps you climb, and does not 'rob' you of any power.

    Your post says to me 'I ride with platforms and pump the forks like a madman when climbing'. I could be wrong, but I can unequivocally say, without a shadow of a doubt, that ETA will not miraculously help you climb hills you couldnt climb yesterday.

    Getting clipped in, pedaling in circles, and having a good setup is what helps you climb. Fullstop. Sorry if I sound preachy, but it's the truth. So says my 17 years of riding mtbs.
    Problem is I am not a smooth climber so this really helps me out. I have tried the climbing with clipless but I found it didn't benefit me in the long run.
    00' Cannondale R1000
    01' Devinci Chilipepper

    When sh*t hits the fan, everything I'm not, made me everything I am.

  11. #11
    pnj
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    some of us will never use clipless......
    4130

  12. #12
    The Rabbi seely's Avatar
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    Ok I tried to post this last night so here it goes again:

    Step One
    -Drill a hole smaller in diameter than the head of the spoke in the lockout switch on top of the fork crown. This only works on forks with a "thumbswitch".

    Two
    -Thread the spoke through the hole so the butted end is on the inside of the switch and the spoke is coming through the outside. Bend the spoke upwards with a good, sharp 90 degree turn.

    Three
    -Using and old reflector seatpost mount (or any where the mounting hole is sideways instead of upright), mount on the handlebar above the lockout and thread the spoke through the hole.

    Four
    -This is the tricky part that requires the most experimentation. What you need to do is put a bend in the spoke, usually kind of \ shaped, so when you turn the spoke, it ramps up in the hole and pulls the lockout switch over. Be prepared to buy a few spokes

    Five
    -Cut the trigger off an old thumb shifter. Bend the threaded end of the spoke down to create your lever. Drill a SMALL hole in the shifter thumbie and then thread it on to the threaded end of the spoke. A little loctite or superglue is a good idea here.

    Voila (not viola), you have a remote lockout easily accessible from your grips, that costs about $2 to make.

    FYI if you mess up your fork, it doesnt work, whatever its not my problem

  13. #13
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    My new fork with lockout just came in today. Took it by the shop to get it installed and 45 mins later, I got a call saying the bike was ready! Can't wait to go pick it up and see how it does on hills.

    About flipping the switch, I think that I will be able to do it while riding. I'm known for adjusting the firmness knob while riding the trails.

  14. #14
    Member TRDshaunTRD's Avatar
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    any pics of this mod would be extreemly helpfull!
    Quote Originally Posted by seely
    Ok I tried to post this last night so here it goes again:

    Step One
    -Drill a hole smaller in diameter than the head of the spoke in the lockout switch on top of the fork crown. This only works on forks with a "thumbswitch".

    Two
    -Thread the spoke through the hole so the butted end is on the inside of the switch and the spoke is coming through the outside. Bend the spoke upwards with a good, sharp 90 degree turn.

    Three
    -Using and old reflector seatpost mount (or any where the mounting hole is sideways instead of upright), mount on the handlebar above the lockout and thread the spoke through the hole.

    Four
    -This is the tricky part that requires the most experimentation. What you need to do is put a bend in the spoke, usually kind of \ shaped, so when you turn the spoke, it ramps up in the hole and pulls the lockout switch over. Be prepared to buy a few spokes

    Five
    -Cut the trigger off an old thumb shifter. Bend the threaded end of the spoke down to create your lever. Drill a SMALL hole in the shifter thumbie and then thread it on to the threaded end of the spoke. A little loctite or superglue is a good idea here.

    Voila (not viola), you have a remote lockout easily accessible from your grips, that costs about $2 to make.

    FYI if you mess up your fork, it doesnt work, whatever its not my problem

  15. #15
    Senior Member hanshananigan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Al.canoe
    I agree. I have lockouts front and rear but use them only if the ride includes significant pavement. The feedback from my full suspension helps me to "spin circles" better which helps my road riding too. On technical climbs, the suspension actually helps me. However, I've been biking for only a few years.

    Al
    DITTO! But hey, if ya wanna keep mashing, go right ahead!

    Another thought is to get a firmer spring so you don't bounce as much. If you're bouncing that much up hills, you are probably wasting a lot of power on the trail in general.

    Oh, and there's no sense in comparing you with platforms vs. others with clipless- you with clipless would probably smoke you with platforms!

  16. #16
    The Rabbi seely's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TRDshaunTRD
    any pics of this mod would be extreemly helpfull!
    Tell ya what I'll try to make one at work tomorrow and snap some pics... I called my buddy and he doesn't have one on any of his personal bikes so I'll try to mock one up real quick.

  17. #17
    GIANT
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    sounds like a really intresteing yet odd idea seely

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