The Usefullness of Lockout
06-22-04, 07:41 PM
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The Usefullness of Lockout
Last Sunday I went for a ride at my usually trail. There are 5 major hills which are steep, somewhat eroded and what not. Ive ridden it many times and usually I can climb 1 of the 5 hills before i get rear wheel slippage or just get too burnt out.
THis time I decided to put my ETA adjustement (locks the fork down) to good use seeing that i rarely use it. Lemme tell you, I was hammering those hills. I was putting my friends using clipless to shame (I ride on platforms and only platforms). I just got some much more power transfered to the rear wheel. So of the 5 hills, I was able to climb every single one of them.
THe only problem is the switch is right by the leg of the fork and it could get dangerous when I am locking it on/off. I loose concentration when trying to flip the switch. I am in the process of trying to get one of my old thumbshifters to link up with that switch to make a remote lever. Still in the early planning stages.
If you have lock out....USE IT!
it might make a big difference in your climbing abilities.
THis time I decided to put my ETA adjustement (locks the fork down) to good use seeing that i rarely use it. Lemme tell you, I was hammering those hills. I was putting my friends using clipless to shame (I ride on platforms and only platforms). I just got some much more power transfered to the rear wheel. So of the 5 hills, I was able to climb every single one of them.
THe only problem is the switch is right by the leg of the fork and it could get dangerous when I am locking it on/off. I loose concentration when trying to flip the switch. I am in the process of trying to get one of my old thumbshifters to link up with that switch to make a remote lever. Still in the early planning stages.
If you have lock out....USE IT!
it might make a big difference in your climbing abilities.
06-22-04, 09:24 PM
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There is a VERY easy way to make a remote switch using a spoke and a reflector mount, and the thumb part off a thumbshifter. I can try to get pictures from a friend if you want to see how its done.
06-22-04, 09:27 PM
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Seely,
I'd be interested in seeing those pictures meerly for the sake of intelectual curiosity.
L8R
I'd be interested in seeing those pictures meerly for the sake of intelectual curiosity.
L8R
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06-22-04, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by seely
There is a VERY easy way to make a remote switch using a spoke and a reflector mount, and the thumb part off a thumbshifter. I can try to get pictures from a friend if you want to see how its done.
06-22-04, 10:18 PM
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I would love to see that. I have a z1 and would love a remote control.
06-22-04, 11:56 PM
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If you're a smooth climber, lockout WILL NOT help you climb. Having your front wheel track over bumps at slow speed helps you climb, and does not 'rob' you of any power.
Your post says to me 'I ride with platforms and pump the forks like a madman when climbing'. I could be wrong, but I can unequivocally say, without a shadow of a doubt, that ETA will not miraculously help you climb hills you couldnt climb yesterday.
Getting clipped in, pedaling in circles, and having a good setup is what helps you climb. Fullstop. Sorry if I sound preachy, but it's the truth. So says my 17 years of riding mtbs.
Your post says to me 'I ride with platforms and pump the forks like a madman when climbing'. I could be wrong, but I can unequivocally say, without a shadow of a doubt, that ETA will not miraculously help you climb hills you couldnt climb yesterday.
Getting clipped in, pedaling in circles, and having a good setup is what helps you climb. Fullstop. Sorry if I sound preachy, but it's the truth. So says my 17 years of riding mtbs.
06-23-04, 12:01 AM
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Eta is a little unique. BEsides locking out it drops to 0 travel with approx 1in ride height (in the travel itself, not total ride height). It changes the HA approx 2degrees. Which would help quite a bit. But yeah when I go uphill I don't bob my fork at all (not even my jrT) but having the ha steeper helps.
But yeah...I suck at climbing...with or without eta
...I am sure the only thing that could help me is clipless (and a some more fitness)
But yeah...I suck at climbing...with or without eta
...I am sure the only thing that could help me is clipless (and a some more fitness)
06-23-04, 06:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Thylacine
If you're a smooth climber, lockout WILL NOT help you climb. Having your front wheel track over bumps at slow speed helps you climb, and does not 'rob' you of any power.
P
P
Al
06-23-04, 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Thylacine
If you're a smooth climber, lockout WILL NOT help you climb. Having your front wheel track over bumps at slow speed helps you climb, and does not 'rob' you of any power.
Your post says to me 'I ride with platforms and pump the forks like a madman when climbing'. I could be wrong, but I can unequivocally say, without a shadow of a doubt, that ETA will not miraculously help you climb hills you couldnt climb yesterday.
Getting clipped in, pedaling in circles, and having a good setup is what helps you climb. Fullstop. Sorry if I sound preachy, but it's the truth. So says my 17 years of riding mtbs.
Your post says to me 'I ride with platforms and pump the forks like a madman when climbing'. I could be wrong, but I can unequivocally say, without a shadow of a doubt, that ETA will not miraculously help you climb hills you couldnt climb yesterday.
Getting clipped in, pedaling in circles, and having a good setup is what helps you climb. Fullstop. Sorry if I sound preachy, but it's the truth. So says my 17 years of riding mtbs.
06-23-04, 11:18 AM
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Ok I tried to post this last night so here it goes again:
Step One
-Drill a hole smaller in diameter than the head of the spoke in the lockout switch on top of the fork crown. This only works on forks with a "thumbswitch".
Two
-Thread the spoke through the hole so the butted end is on the inside of the switch and the spoke is coming through the outside. Bend the spoke upwards with a good, sharp 90 degree turn.
Three
-Using and old reflector seatpost mount (or any where the mounting hole is sideways instead of upright), mount on the handlebar above the lockout and thread the spoke through the hole.
Four
-This is the tricky part that requires the most experimentation. What you need to do is put a bend in the spoke, usually kind of \ shaped, so when you turn the spoke, it ramps up in the hole and pulls the lockout switch over. Be prepared to buy a few spokes
Five
-Cut the trigger off an old thumb shifter. Bend the threaded end of the spoke down to create your lever. Drill a SMALL hole in the shifter thumbie and then thread it on to the threaded end of the spoke. A little loctite or superglue is a good idea here.
Voila (not viola), you have a remote lockout easily accessible from your grips, that costs about $2 to make.
FYI if you mess up your fork, it doesnt work, whatever its not my problem
Step One
-Drill a hole smaller in diameter than the head of the spoke in the lockout switch on top of the fork crown. This only works on forks with a "thumbswitch".
Two
-Thread the spoke through the hole so the butted end is on the inside of the switch and the spoke is coming through the outside. Bend the spoke upwards with a good, sharp 90 degree turn.
Three
-Using and old reflector seatpost mount (or any where the mounting hole is sideways instead of upright), mount on the handlebar above the lockout and thread the spoke through the hole.
Four
-This is the tricky part that requires the most experimentation. What you need to do is put a bend in the spoke, usually kind of \ shaped, so when you turn the spoke, it ramps up in the hole and pulls the lockout switch over. Be prepared to buy a few spokes
Five
-Cut the trigger off an old thumb shifter. Bend the threaded end of the spoke down to create your lever. Drill a SMALL hole in the shifter thumbie and then thread it on to the threaded end of the spoke. A little loctite or superglue is a good idea here.
Voila (not viola), you have a remote lockout easily accessible from your grips, that costs about $2 to make.
FYI if you mess up your fork, it doesnt work, whatever its not my problem
06-23-04, 03:03 PM
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My new fork with lockout just came in today. Took it by the shop to get it installed and 45 mins later, I got a call saying the bike was ready! Can't wait to go pick it up and see how it does on hills.
About flipping the switch, I think that I will be able to do it while riding. I'm known for adjusting the firmness knob while riding the trails.
About flipping the switch, I think that I will be able to do it while riding. I'm known for adjusting the firmness knob while riding the trails.
06-23-04, 03:08 PM
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any pics of this mod would be extreemly helpfull!
Originally Posted by seely
Ok I tried to post this last night so here it goes again:
Step One
-Drill a hole smaller in diameter than the head of the spoke in the lockout switch on top of the fork crown. This only works on forks with a "thumbswitch".
Two
-Thread the spoke through the hole so the butted end is on the inside of the switch and the spoke is coming through the outside. Bend the spoke upwards with a good, sharp 90 degree turn.
Three
-Using and old reflector seatpost mount (or any where the mounting hole is sideways instead of upright), mount on the handlebar above the lockout and thread the spoke through the hole.
Four
-This is the tricky part that requires the most experimentation. What you need to do is put a bend in the spoke, usually kind of \ shaped, so when you turn the spoke, it ramps up in the hole and pulls the lockout switch over. Be prepared to buy a few spokes
Five
-Cut the trigger off an old thumb shifter. Bend the threaded end of the spoke down to create your lever. Drill a SMALL hole in the shifter thumbie and then thread it on to the threaded end of the spoke. A little loctite or superglue is a good idea here.
Voila (not viola), you have a remote lockout easily accessible from your grips, that costs about $2 to make.
FYI if you mess up your fork, it doesnt work, whatever its not my problem
Step One
-Drill a hole smaller in diameter than the head of the spoke in the lockout switch on top of the fork crown. This only works on forks with a "thumbswitch".
Two
-Thread the spoke through the hole so the butted end is on the inside of the switch and the spoke is coming through the outside. Bend the spoke upwards with a good, sharp 90 degree turn.
Three
-Using and old reflector seatpost mount (or any where the mounting hole is sideways instead of upright), mount on the handlebar above the lockout and thread the spoke through the hole.
Four
-This is the tricky part that requires the most experimentation. What you need to do is put a bend in the spoke, usually kind of \ shaped, so when you turn the spoke, it ramps up in the hole and pulls the lockout switch over. Be prepared to buy a few spokes
Five
-Cut the trigger off an old thumb shifter. Bend the threaded end of the spoke down to create your lever. Drill a SMALL hole in the shifter thumbie and then thread it on to the threaded end of the spoke. A little loctite or superglue is a good idea here.
Voila (not viola), you have a remote lockout easily accessible from your grips, that costs about $2 to make.
FYI if you mess up your fork, it doesnt work, whatever its not my problem
06-23-04, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Al.canoe
I agree. I have lockouts front and rear but use them only if the ride includes significant pavement. The feedback from my full suspension helps me to "spin circles" better which helps my road riding too. On technical climbs, the suspension actually helps me. However, I've been biking for only a few years.
Al
Al
Another thought is to get a firmer spring so you don't bounce as much. If you're bouncing that much up hills, you are probably wasting a lot of power on the trail in general.
Oh, and there's no sense in comparing you with platforms vs. others with clipless- you with clipless would probably smoke you with platforms!
06-23-04, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by TRDshaunTRD
any pics of this mod would be extreemly helpfull!
