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  1. #1
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    Hi, bottom bracket / crank arms

    I'm off grid baby
    Last edited by Joshorilla; 02-25-13 at 04:59 PM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member surreal's Avatar
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    Mar 2002
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    step one:find the person who put your bike outdoors and, as you're "quite built", threaten to hurt them badly if they don't help you unfreeze your bike components.

    step two: Use the penetrating lube (don't giggle) liberally, and let it sit around on the frame for a while. Like, overnight. Have your dad/old roomie/whoever put the bike outside help you as you use various tools and body parts to try to dislodge parts, caveperson style. (Brute strength, primitive strategies.) Do this for, like, 3 hours.

    step 3: if, at anytime, the frustration overwhelms you, just thank your lucky stars that you got the seatpost out.

    step 4: if this goes on any longer than, say, 3 hours of caveman shhh, consider getting a new frame.

    hth
    -rob

  3. #3
    "I'm OK!" dminor's Avatar
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    Oct 2004
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    The 509
    My Bikes
    1971 Suzuki TS125/factory race kit/AHRMA-legal; 1969 Suzuki TS250/factory race kit; 1967 Suzuki K-15 Hillbilly Trail 80; 1977 Yamaha IT175; 1964 VanTech Scrambler racing frame
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    Take a wire wheel to the exposed part of the steer tube to attack the rust scale so the spacers stand a chance of sliding when dislodged. Spray more WD-40 around that mess and let sit. Then pound on it with a rubber mallet fist and try to drive out the steerer. Then use a big ball-peen or a small sledge when that doesn't work.

    BB cups should be less of an issue, since that should be aluminum against aluminum. Just use a good BB cup socket and a long 1/2"-drive breaker bar.

  4. #4
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    I'm off grid baby
    Last edited by Joshorilla; 02-25-13 at 04:59 PM.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Duce97's Avatar
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    Jun 2009
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    Chicago
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    Mongoose Snare
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    Use a good pipe wrench , i had that happen to an old hutch bmx bike and the pipe wrench did the trick.

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