does anybody know where there is any downhill tracks in huddersfield apart from storthes hall
im based in shepley so i would like it about 30mins top away, but i would also like it so i could bike to it
hi the bike is an iron horse yakuza ojiki custom, do you know some of the noises,
im not sure if you need this but this is the parts list
frame = iron horse yakuza ojiki [ obviously ]
rear shock = fox var r
rear spring = fox 300 by 3.10
forks = marzocchi super t rcv 2007
handlebars = truvativ husselfelt dh handlebars
brakes = hayes hfx-9 hd
grips = toxin lock ons
seatpost = unbranded
rotors = hayes v8 203mm
chain = sram pg-950 9 speed powerlink
casette = sram pg-950
pedals = wellgo v8
shifter = sram x.7
rear derailleur = sram x.9
stem = direct stem for junior t and super t
wheels = alexrims supra n
tires = 2.5 tioga white tigers
saddle = wtb
cranks = fsa gravity moto x mega exo
headset = fsa 1 1/5th adjusted to 1 1/8th
hubs = formula
i do you also reckon that is a pritty good bike or would you change some parts, if so please state them
The obvious places to start looking are the chain and the pivots.
The elevated chainstays are similar to the vernerable Santa Cruz Bullits and Yeti AS-Xs (and a buncha others). Start with some chainstay protector (old tire, inner ube rubber, rubber shelf liner) zip-tied around the bottom of the chainstay. He probably hasn't gone to a chain guide system yet, right? That cuts down a lot on the chain slap besides keeping the chain in check better. Those high-single-pivot frames have a lot of chain-growth issues. As your boy gets faster, he WILL start throwing chains.
Check the main pivot for play and squeeking. Take the shock loose and just cycle the swingarm through, wiggle it and listen for dry bearings. While the shock is loose, pull the bushings, clean them and the shock eyelets and grease 'em up with fresh.
FSA MegaEXO bottom brackets have the stupidest, crappiest crank spindle interface. Check the crank/BB for play. Look at the dust shields on the MegaEXO BB cups: are they toast? Even if the bearings are fine, those plastic dust shields actually have a sleeve that slides inside the cup and spaces the 19mm spindle from the 20mm ID bearing race. Brilliant. Plastic interface between crank and bearings. What are they thinking? New dust caps are available online from FSA; and dirt will grind those to powder within another year. If the MegaEXO is toast, look at other X-type BB cups that his FSA cranks are compatible with.
hi thanks for that infomation, that helped, we checked all the pivots, chain etc. they all seem fine so i reckon its dry bearings, we'll give'em a grease and see how it goes, oh also when my son turns corners his 203mm rotors must bend and are catching on the pads and making a grinding sound, and the rear when he brakes squeaks as though the disk rotor is loose but all the bolts are rock solid, but arent hayes v8 rotors known to be flimsy?
hi also, he does have a lizard skin chainstay protector but he had to cut it up into parts to make it fit on the frame, you see the iron horse yakuza ojiki, because of its elevated swinging arm then the crank arm passes the frame within about 1.5cm distance of hitting each other. this means you have to cut the chainstay protector down so it doesnt catch on the cranks arm, i think you could be able to have one but it would pass withim mm of each other. i wil try an innertube but it might catch. what do you recommend
. . . because of its elevated swinging arm then the crank arm passes the frame within about 1.5cm distance of hitting each other.
If your son ends up going to a chainguide system and/or changing bottom brackets, there's a chance he'll need a bit longer spindle anyway., which would alleviate some of the clearance problems. But, really, with the elevated stay, the bottom of the swingarm is what most needs the wrap thickness. A piece of rubber on the bottom wrapped in electrical or gaffer's tape will do.
thanks for the info, also when my son turns corners his 203mm rotors must bend and are catching on the pads and making a grinding sound, do you get the problem, also the rear brake sometimes squeaks when he brakes but i think the pads are glazed. one last thing, do you know if hayes v8 rotors are flimsy, if so, which rotors would you change to even if i had to change the caliper
I'm running the V8 rotors and I haven't experienced any troubles with them. If the rotor rubs on turns, it's not going to be the rotors themselves but what they are bolted to. If it's the front, start suspecting worn hub bearings, loose axle, etc. If it's the rear, again, worn hub bearings or the skewer not being tightened properly.
hi the cranks his bike has on it are good but when he does some dh after the ride, when he gets back home is cranks arm with no sprokets comes a bit loose so i tighten it up as tight as it should be. next day of riding when he comes back in he goes " dad my cranks loose, email that guy and ask him what to do " so what are your suggestions
Are you just tightening the end-cap on the crank? If so, that could be part of the problem. The non-drive-side crank arm on the FSA Moto-X should have two pinch-bolts (facing opposite each other). The end-cap bolt is just to take the play out of the spindle (much like a stem cap does on a headset). Loosen the pinch bolts. Snug the end-cap bolt just enough to take the play out but not bind the bearings (spin the cranks with the chain off to doublecheck). THEN tighten the pinch-bolts on the crank arm. Finally, take a little snug on the cap bolt just as extra insurance against it backing out.
hi dminor, the problem with the v8 rotors was the pads for some reaso but we emery clothed the pads and the disks are now fine. but i think im still going to get new pads. oh look at the list of parts i stated earlier in the forum and tell me which ones you think are good and which ones are rubbish and should change [ please be honest, he would like his bike absolute top notch ]