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  1. #1
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    Just bought an old Trek 820 antelope... need some help.

    I'm new to mountain biking and just bought an old trek 820 antelope for $70 bucks. Not knowing the first thing about bikes, I didn't realize that the bike has no suspension and apparently one of the gear shifters is not working (the one that goes from 1-7). My question is, should I invest in a suspension fork and new gears, possibly even new brakes, or should I buy a new bike (I'm considering the Trek mountain hardtail 820)? I will be using it around the city but also on some rocky trails. My budget is around $300.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
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    Your frame takes a fork with a 1" steerer tube if it in fact says "Antelope" anywhere on the frame. 1 1/8" has been the standard for fork steerer tubes since about 1996. You won't find a fork for your 820 new, maybe NOS.

  3. #3
    ed
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    Don't upgrade anything on that bike.

    If you're gonna do anything to it...find a buddy who knows how to turn some wrenches and convert that thing to a singlespeed.

    Your right shifter is the more important one...if it's shot...you're hosed. You may be able to get it free'd up with some penetrating lube / flush with simple green / lube with TriFlow.

    Otherwise...no...I'd not spend any money in upgrading the brakes, suspension, or shifters.

    One rec...check your LBS and see if they have a 7speed thumbie. That may save your butt for a while.





    Look at the Giant Boulder and Trek 820 at your local bike shop. See what kinda deal they can give you. It will be 1000% better than what you've got. Still should fit within or near your $300 budget.

  4. #4
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    Thank you for the replies! Think I will definitely look into a new bike. Too bad I spent my money on this old thing :/

  5. #5
    another retro grouch Mr IGH's Avatar
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    It's a great commuter, $70 isn't bad if you can find an old shifter for it. If you're looking for a bike with front suspension, $70 isn't likely to find a bike with a good enough suspension fork to use on real MTB trails.
    IGH's, Dyno Hubs, LED lights and old frames

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    ed
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    Here's an issue you will probably run into:
    Assuming it's a shift pod only (which it's probably a shifter/brake lever combo...but I could be wrong) you will pay $25 HERE...when you add shipping, you will have 1/2 the cost of the bike in shifters.

    HERE is a "rear pod only" for about $13.
    Check ebay...but make sure you don't buy a SRAM shifter. I can't be sure...but I think that the shift ratio was even different back in those days.

  7. #7
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    I found a dealer in my area selling a 2009 Trek 4300 for $400. I've read some good reviews on this bike as an entry level option. Think that's a good deal for the price??

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    Senior Member jjbod1's Avatar
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    If its new from a shop, not a bad deal at all. They did retail for close to $500. The 2010's are coming out soon, many this month. Thats why they are dropping the price. That is a pretty nice entry level bike, great choice to help you see if MTN biking is your thing. You should be able to beat it up good. Then if you find you need a better bike down the road. You can either do a few upgrades to that one, or get a much nicer bike

  9. #9
    another retro grouch Mr IGH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dimmer View Post
    I found a dealer in my area selling a 2009 Trek 4300 for $400. I've read some good reviews on this bike as an entry level option. Think that's a good deal for the price??
    What fork is on it and how much do you weigh? Low cost MTBs have forks that are not really up to MTB'ing. Moving up a few hundred $$ can get a nice suspension fork. If you're over 200lbs, the fork and wheels are going to be an issue on a $400 MTB.
    IGH's, Dyno Hubs, LED lights and old frames

  10. #10
    Senior Member Duce97's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr IGH View Post
    What fork is on it and how much do you weigh? Low cost MTBs have forks that are not really up to MTB'ing. Moving up a few hundred $$ can get a nice suspension fork. If you're over 200lbs, the fork and wheels are going to be an issue on a $400 MTB.


    Hmmm ...i mountain bike with my trek 4300 with the stock fork and have no problems . 100mm travel is 100mm i dont care who makes the fork. To say he cant mountain bike with it is giving out bad information. The fork on the trek has a rebound adjusment and thats all you really need . The fork on that trek is fine for a beginer bike . The rims are double walled and have eyelets , i have had mine off 4 foot drops with no problems and i weigh 210 pounds . If this bike has any downfall at all its the drive train wich i upgraded on mine.

  11. #11
    another retro grouch Mr IGH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duce97 View Post
    ...100mm travel is 100mm....
    Which fork is it? I had to replace the forks on both son's bikes, a Dart II and a MARZOCCHI, both forks would be bottomed out at the end of a long rocky descent. Common problem with low cost suspension forks. I guess it depends on how hard you ride and what kind of conditions you ride in
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  12. #12
    just keep riding BluesDawg's Avatar
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    Don't junk the old 820. It can be reworked into a good around town bike/grocery getter/commuter by changing to slick tires and putting a rack on back. Cheap thumbshifters will have it working for next to nothing. If you'll ride it enough it is worth adding North Road bars and bar end shifters. Keep the rigid fork.
    The more you ride your bike, the less your ass will hurt.

  13. #13
    ed
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duce97 View Post
    Hmmm ...i mountain bike with my trek 4300 with the stock fork and have no problems . 100mm travel is 100mm i dont care who makes the fork. To say he cant mountain bike with it is giving out bad information. The fork on the trek has a rebound adjusment and thats all you really need . The fork on that trek is fine for a beginer bike . The rims are double walled and have eyelets , i have had mine off 4 foot drops with no problems and i weigh 210 pounds . If this bike has any downfall at all its the drive train wich i upgraded on mine.
    100mm of travel is like 20mm of travel when your preload is factory set way too soft...which is what this poster was getting at.

  14. #14
    Senior Member Duce97's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chelboed View Post
    100mm of travel is like 20mm of travel when your preload is factory set way too soft...which is what this poster was getting at.

    I realize that , the rst fork that comes stock on the 4300 doesnt have that problem and with the rebound adjustment makes a fine entry level fork. To say the fork isint up to mountain biking is misleading. I have bottomed out that fork once on a 5 1/2 drop with a bad landing that i shouldnt have done anyways because anything beyond 4 feet is pushing the bikes limits. But i was on a trail i was never on before and the drop kind of snuck up on me.

    Sorry i just get irritated when people say you have to go out and spend hundreds of dollars on somthing when you really dont have to all just because the hype of the nice parts says its so. My tora fork didnt even outlast this rst fork on the same trails i ride daily and i paid 300 for it. If the bike came with an SR SunTour XCT V2 like the 3700 line does, i could see the logic in 100mm is the same has 20mm .

  15. #15
    another retro grouch Mr IGH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duce97 View Post
    ...To say the fork isint up to mountain biking is misleading....
    If you ride at Palos, I am sure that fork will hold on. If you ride the Blue loop at the Kettle with that fork and don't bottom it out, you're not riding very hard. My 12 year old bottomed out a stock Dart 2 on the Blue loop, he weighed 120lbs. It's not a single jump that is the issue. A long series of jumps and bumps will bottom out low cost forks because they can't rebound, esp if you load the pre-load. And I saw that very Bontrager rim taco'ed out at the connector trail at the Kettle, poor guy was facing a 5 mile walk back to his car....he wasn't a Clyde
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  16. #16
    don't be so angry clancy98's Avatar
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    aren't most discount forks just springs or elastomers anyways? how is that getting stuck at bottomed out with no rebound control, isn't it just a boinger? Maybe tech has changed, but...
    Irregardless is not a word, and you do not sound more intelligent using it.

  17. #17
    Senior Member Duce97's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr IGH View Post
    If you ride at Palos, I am sure that fork will hold on. If you ride the Blue loop at the Kettle with that fork and don't bottom it out, you're not riding very hard. My 12 year old bottomed out a stock Dart 2 on the Blue loop, he weighed 120lbs. It's not a single jump that is the issue. A long series of jumps and bumps will bottom out low cost forks because they can't rebound, esp if you load the pre-load. And I saw that very Bontrager rim taco'ed out at the connector trail at the Kettle, poor guy was facing a 5 mile walk back to his car....he wasn't a Clyde


    Matter of fact i have been to kettle on all 4 of my bikes. My 4300 has been on the blue trail and yes i rode it soft. Your going beyond what the bike was built for by treks standards on the blue trail but my fuel loved the blue trail.. I rode it a bit harder on the green trail with the preload set about halfway and had zero problems .

    Id like to know how he taco'ed that rim ....but then again ive seen dt swiss rims taco'ed at farmdale in illinois so i guess anything is possible. I dont ride palos much im a bit south of there plus its over corwded. I ride Matthiessen , farmdale , Jubilee and lots of private trails.

  18. #18
    another retro grouch Mr IGH's Avatar
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    IMHO, rather than a cheap suspension fork on a $400 MTB, rigid would be better. It'll handle trails like the Kettle no problem. Impossible to sell in this hyp'ed up market, but better for everyone.
    IGH's, Dyno Hubs, LED lights and old frames

  19. #19
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    Hi, thanks for all the replies. All the info is very helpful. The fork on the 4300 at the shop is a RST Gila T8 w/preload, 100mm. I'm 5'4 and weight around 120 lbs.

    My girlfriend also just bought a used Trek 3900 with a spinner grind 1 fork. I've heard this is a very low end fork, but do you think she'll be able to ride this on moderate trails (no jumps, just a lot of rocks and tree roots). She weighs around 120 lbs too.

    thanks again!

  20. #20
    Senior Member jjbod1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dimmer View Post
    Hi, thanks for all the replies. All the info is very helpful. The fork on the 4300 at the shop is a RST Gila T8 w/preload, 100mm. I'm 5'4 and weight around 120 lbs.

    My girlfriend also just bought a used Trek 3900 with a spinner grind 1 fork. I've heard this is a very low end fork, but do you think she'll be able to ride this on moderate trails (no jumps, just a lot of rocks and tree roots). She weighs around 120 lbs too.

    thanks again!
    Both those bikes will be fine for what you 2 will be using them for. If you really get into the sport then you upgrade.

  21. #21
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    Great!

  22. #22
    Pint-Sized Gnar Shredder Zephyr11's Avatar
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  23. #23
    "STAT" -_RebelRidin'_-'s Avatar
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    "SunTour XCT V2 like the 3700 line does"

    this is the armpit of forks...

    I had one... hated it with all I had...

    I switched it out first chance I got, and trashed the stupid pogo-stick.

    I was also on a Trail that had a lot of rooty sections and drops and a nicer fork with "real" rebound and preload adjustments was more the norm..... unless you hated your joints and rode a rigid.
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  24. #24
    "STAT" -_RebelRidin'_-'s Avatar
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    2007 Kona Dawg
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  25. #25
    Occasional poster countrydirt's Avatar
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    So I'm interested in what you are going to do with the antelope.

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