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Old 08-19-09, 07:53 PM   #1
Unicornz0
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What is the maximum safe spacer height on a suspension fork steerer?

I bought a Rockshox Jett on Ebay. The seller let me know that the fork is actually longer than what he advertised in the sale description. I was hopping to use the fork without cutting the steerer based on the advertised steerer length. What is the maximum spacer height that I can safely install above and below the stem? If I have to cut the steerer, will a pipe cutter do a good Job? Also, I'm waiting on a Rockshox Recon that is on backorder. Will the spacer height apply to the steerer on this fork too even though it is aluminum? Will the pipe cutter make a good cut on this aluminum steerer?
Thanks in advance,
Uni
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Old 08-19-09, 08:44 PM   #2
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Steel steerers can accomodate a larger stack than aluminum. The spec for the height can probably be found somewhere online; However, you can go as high as you want if you put spacers on top of the stem(not sure that you'd want to, though). The pipe cutter will work fine on either material.
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Old 08-20-09, 07:13 AM   #3
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I happen to know for a fact that the DT forks can handle at least 36"
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Old 08-20-09, 12:47 PM   #4
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A pipecutter can do it, or you can have a LBS do it for not much I am sure. Cutting the steerer tube is not a big deal. Don't just stack it with spacers, make it the height you want
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Old 08-20-09, 03:33 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by chelboed View Post
I happen to know for a fact that the DT forks can handle at least 36"
If that's 36" of spacers, that bike must be 20' tall- the green giant's ride, perhaps?
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Old 08-20-09, 04:55 PM   #6
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Pinkbike measurements...




...merely a sarcastic jab at a friend.
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Old 08-20-09, 06:06 PM   #7
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HA HA What moron would ride a bike with that much stack?
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Old 08-20-09, 06:16 PM   #8
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You didn't make if clear if you had a pipecutter or were going to get one. If you want to cut it for super low cost you can cut it with a hacksaw. Use a bar or something to drive out the old star nut. Then get a new star nut from the shop and thread it onto your top cap bolt. Bang it in with a mallet being careful that it's straight down into the tube about 3/4 of an inch. You top cap might not be perfectly straight but it's not really necessary to the function. The whole point is just to preload the headset and once you have your stem on their nice and tight the whole thing is technically not need anyway (this is not saying you should remove it). Costs about two bucks to do this way. If you have a pipecutter I'm sure it's better...
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Old 08-20-09, 06:20 PM   #9
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use a blow torch...
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Old 08-20-09, 07:10 PM   #10
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HA HA What moron would ride a bike with that much
Hey punk! Stop makin fun of mah shizzle, dizzle! Some of us old phartz gotta have that "hybrid" positioning because of our bad backs. Heck man, thats the whole reason we built the dually in the first place...we're sitting so upright that all our weight is on the rear end...may as well just put a rigid phork on it too. Carbon, of course.
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Old 08-20-09, 07:23 PM   #11
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Heh Heh, Ohhh your gonna pay for that.
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Old 08-20-09, 07:33 PM   #12
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I've been paying since Sunday night. I had to take the day off work today...and give up my "on-call" time to somebody else. I won't be riding until next week fur shure.

You probably dropped a swine-flu tab in my water out there.
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Old 08-21-09, 05:47 AM   #13
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What went on in Harlans car?
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