-_RebelRidin'_-

Been riding it a lot lately when I have time
Did a 25 mile cruise through back woods trails and took the road back home through the German towns.

I have soooo much drive train issues.
My chainwheels seem to be main area of concern. The chain, when I shift into the middle of granny gear seems to jump around and bounce, and it gets cause between the crank and frame.
and now, I have issues with it going off the grany gear and getting caught between the GG and my BB.... scratching it to hell and back!

I have shortened the chain by a few links to take the extra slack out. Didn't help any.

I have taken the bike into the shop and they... really made me mad... didn't do anything to the bike. I have tried a few adjustments. All for not much gain.
This sunday I plan to sit down and really go over the drivetrain. I have Shimano Deore shifters and Derailures, shimana 9 speed cassette/chain. Truativ cranks.


Another Question:
My RD bounces off my chain when I have the chain in the smaller cogs, is there a way to fix this? I just feel it is adding uneeded noise/vibration, and it's probably not good the frame .. well paint.

never

Given the bike is pretty new, all the derailleurs should need are some proper adjustments. Print off the instructions on the Park Tools website and set up the front and rear deraillers from start to finish.

kenhill3

+1. Time for der. adjustments.

You really need to find a competent LBS.

ed 

I don't wanna be a punk and bring ya down Cheeze...but this seems to be chronic for you no matter what bike you're on. I think the issue is 1 of 2 or both:

1. The way you ride.
2. Home maintenance.

Sounds like some adjustments need to be made in both arenas. Good luck, man.

Siu Blue Wind

^^^ Dittto.

Did you ever bring it in for it's first adjustments? Why did you shorten the chain? Was the slack that bad?

I hope you didn't officially Cheeto it already.

What did you do to try to adjust it?

-_RebelRidin'_-

I took it in for its 75-100 mile tune up...
got it back worse that what it was.
I re-adjusted some of the stuff and got it ridable again. But for somereason the chain issue, when I shift down on the front, the chain bounces (I've watched it) the bounce goes between the chain wheels and my chain stay pivot, and scratches the heck out of it and smashes the chain. I have a rubber strap and a few red zipties to help keep the bounce out. I shortened the chain a bit, because it had a huge amount of slack, even when in the two biggest gears (I know I'd never ride like this, cross-chaining)


It has been doing this since I bought it, so I know its not me. My riding.... I haven't done anything rough with this bike, I cant find any real trails. It's been on fire roads, and paved bike paths, and streets. Very few mild-moderate single track.
I maintain it well. After every ride the drivetrain gets cleaned and re-lubed with Finish line WET XC lube. I remove all dirt and grit from the frame and pivot areas/shock/fork stancions as well.


I just wanted to know if there is a special secret to this...

The limit screws on the front are good, maybe a little on the lower side, but my problem isn't dropping the chain, it stays on the chainwheels, but it bounces and wiggles into other places. I can, infact continue to pedal when it bounces, it just grind the heck outta my frame.

born2bahick

One thing to look for: after a chain get's wedged between the small ring and frame ( IE BB or chainstay). Look for kinked or bent links in the chain itself. if it has one or two, it will be prone to holding on to the chain ring and riding up the back side rather than peeling off and feeding to the RD.
This causes more chain suck and a domino effect.

-_RebelRidin'_-

Thats ym next step is to replace the chain.
I dislike shimano chains, due to lack of powerlink, If I can get a SRAM chain around here, I will.
All I have is an 8 speed, not a 9 speed sram.

ed 

It's called "chainsuck", Cheeto.

Check your limit screws.

kenhill3

+1

Also, if ya gots a triple in front, check the middle ring indexing. Sometimes if they're set too much inboard, the chain can fall too far.

Add: If all is adjusted properly above, the only time I get chainsuck is on hard shifts/bumpy terrain (shouldn't really be shifting on the bump-licious stuff anyway, IMO).

-_RebelRidin'_-

To take out the bumpy terrain variable, It does it on the road as well =(


ill have to look at the indexing.
thats my last hope.

born2bahick

If it does it on the road too definately check the chain.

-_RebelRidin'_-

^ I checked the chain, wear idicator is good (duh! new chain... -_-) and I can't see any visabley bent links. However, I'm sure it could be off ever so slightly that I can't tell.

I'm going to put a new 9 speed SRAM chain on, and see if that helps at all.
if not. Ill move onto the indexing (which I don't know much about... I'll take a while guess at it has something to do with the space and height between chain wheels?)
if not that... then,.. I'm going to cry that I spent 1150, on a 1500 rig, and it still isn't working right =(

born2bahick

I dunno man, chainsuck is pretty narrow in causes. Bent tooth on a chain ring, bent or kinked links in a chain, or worn chain, or chain rings. OR improper limit screw setting. Don't cry about the money just be patient and hone your mechanic skeelzs.... This is a chance to use more tools and parts, and in the end that's the best part of mountain biking!

mzeffex 

When I first got my mountain bike off craigslist it had a lot of issues. Then I got it tuned up and it was great. Then I screwed with it shortly there after and it got all messed up again. Then I got a job at a bike store and screwed stuff up on it even worse when I thought I could fix it. Then, eventually, it was fixed. Now it's better than ever. It will all work out, from experience you will learn to do things. I really don't find Park tool or Sheldon Brown of any help, with the exclusion of wheel building.

-_RebelRidin'_-

Well as of today, I can exclude bent tooths and limit screws.

I need to find a chain..... the "LBS" here has removed all the biking goods from the floor and replaced them with snow boars, and skii's

Siu Blue Wind

Maybe that's why it was on sale.....

-_RebelRidin'_-

it was on sale ebcause during august, to clear their floors, the Bikeshop had a sale on all 2007 items

-_RebelRidin'_-

ok...

I have adjusted the limit screws again, and they are absolutely perfect.
Front shifts decent,
the rear... is horrid.

I started all over, put the barrels all the way in, released tension on the cable and started over.
Can't seem to get it right this time.
Meanwhile, the Trek even after the LX was torqued in its battle with my wheel in which it killed 2 spokes, it shifts perfect after I adjusted it post battle...

argh.
this kona is cursed I think. Any tips on what to do?
serious please, if your jsut going to blame it on me, or "cheeto" or any of the usual acusations aimed towards me, then save it for another time.

The hanger isn't bent, and hasn't recieved any impacts since purchase.
this one has me stumped.
I can get it to shift either really good up, or really good down. It doesnt want to do both.

I am tempted to put the LX on the Kona, but My dad just had a surgery and he needs to trek for rehab, and I don't want to stiff him with a non working bike.

ed 

Possibly try new cables. If your cables are corroded, they will not release crisply causing you to overcompensate with the barrel adj. Then the downshift is jacked. (fyi...I don't think this is the problem)

Inspect (visually) where your upper jockey pulley is in relation to the corresponding cogs. Then fine-tune. (this "may" help) W/o having the bike in my hands...it's really a crap-shoot.

Good luck, man. You could post a video of you trying to up-shift with the bike hanging by the saddle...camera close-up parrallel with chain looking at the cassette/RD

victim

Buy a new RD hanger and try that. If it doesn't work you have a spare which you need anyways. Next would be a new chain. Something is wrong on your drive train and you need to figure it out. It's hard for people to fix your bike with a keyboard, it's on you or your bike shop. Good luck buddy.

born2bahick

Are there any Plastic ferrules at the RD or Fr Shifter that are bent?

kenhill3

Cheeto-

Don't start at adjustments with the barrels all the way in, you'll never to able to slacken-adjust the cables. Start with 'em about 2 turns out.

The hanger/dropout has to be aligned well for stuff to work properly. Make double sure you have it correct.

It may be that the rear derailleur is worn out at the pivot bolt. Can you wiggle it in and out?

The two above being out of whack will give symptoms exactly as you have described.

born2bahick

It's amazing how this thread went from chain suck on the front rings to indexing in the rear cog?
Is Kona a ***? or is Cheeto a cheezin?

Siu Blue Wind

*ahem*

No.