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Old 08-02-04, 05:14 PM   #1
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Hayes HFX-9 Lever Problem!

I JUST had this problem. I have to pull the lever back to the grips to get the pads to catch the rotor. I was riding today and they worked perfect. I get home and put the tires back on (had to take them off to get them into car) and the problem occurs. This happened last week at Mount Snow in Vermont. I brought them to the LBS and they bleed the brakes and they were good to go. Now why has this happened again. It took the LBS 4 days to bleed them because they have a huge list of people. My problem:

I'm going to Killington on Thursday and if I bring it to the LBS the bike won't be ready. And if I don't, I have practicaklly NO back brake.
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Old 08-02-04, 05:35 PM   #2
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LEarn how to bleed them yourself. Kit, if you don't want to make one, is cheap and doing a full bleed takes 10 min tops...maybe 15.

Also, those particular brakes, the limit screw on the lever (to move it in and out off the bar) loosens itself pretty easily. You might have to adjust it often.
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Old 08-02-04, 05:45 PM   #3
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SO tighting the limit screw should solve it?
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Old 08-02-04, 06:11 PM   #4
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It might...it might need bleeding but sometimes with the hfx9's you can adjust the screw and everything will be fine.
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Old 08-02-04, 06:23 PM   #5
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which screw is it?
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Old 08-02-04, 06:26 PM   #6
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in between the lever and the handle there is a tiny allen key screw. Right to push it out and left to pull it in. Try turning it right.
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Old 08-02-04, 07:16 PM   #7
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Bringing it to the LBS tommorow. Hopefully he can get the pads replaced and bleed the brakes before wednesday
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Old 08-02-04, 10:28 PM   #8
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I live in one of the busiest bike towns in the world. 3 days is completely unacceptable. I would stop going to that shop and learn to do it myself.
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Old 08-03-04, 02:45 AM   #9
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How do you bleed your own brakes, will it be on the Barnetts Manuel, and what fluid do you use, can you just go out and by the brake fluid at a bikestore, online...?
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Old 08-03-04, 06:37 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maelstrom
in between the lever and the handle there is a tiny allen key screw. Right to push it out and left to pull it in. Try turning it right.
I got the same brakes and they're notorious for this limit screw problem! And this fits your description. My brakes went from good to dangerous within a 2 hour ride. I presume the vibration from riding loosens the screw in the "bad" direction.

You'll need a 2mm allen key. My multi-tool (Topeak Alien) has the right size, but the entire tool is too bulky to fit between the handle bar and brake lever. Maelstrom is correct - as you look at the head of the screw, turn it clockwise for less brake lever travel.

Hopefully, this is the problem. If so, use a thread locking compound (such as Lock Tite, blue version) to secure the screw. Before applying the thread locking compound, turn the set screw beyond it's ideal position, place a drop of compound onto the thread with a toothpick, and adjust the screw back to it's ideal position. By doing this, you're ensuring the locking compound is placed in the mating threads. I did this "fix" about a month ago and all is fine.
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Old 08-03-04, 06:49 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MudPie
I got the same brakes and they're notorious for this limit screw problem! And this fits your description. My brakes went from good to dangerous within a 2 hour ride. I presume the vibration from riding loosens the screw in the "bad" direction.

You'll need a 2mm allen key. My multi-tool (Topeak Alien) has the right size, but the entire tool is too bulky to fit between the handle bar and brake lever. Maelstrom is correct - as you look at the head of the screw, turn it clockwise for less brake lever travel.

Hopefully, this is the problem. If so, use a thread locking compound (such as Lock Tite, blue version) to secure the screw. Before applying the thread locking compound, turn the set screw beyond it's ideal position, place a drop of compound onto the thread with a toothpick, and adjust the screw back to it's ideal position. By doing this, you're ensuring the locking compound is placed in the mating threads. I did this "fix" about a month ago and all is fine.

Exactly bro. This man has hit the nail on the head!

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Old 08-03-04, 08:33 AM   #12
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Alright, now I need some Loctite. I heard its cheap right? I'll go checl the screw now and if tightening it fixes it then i'll go get some loctite and fix it! Thanks guys. I'll post if it worked or not.
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Old 08-03-04, 08:52 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MudPie
I got the same brakes and they're notorious for this limit screw problem! And this fits your description. My brakes went from good to dangerous within a 2 hour ride. I presume the vibration from riding loosens the screw in the "bad" direction.

You'll need a 2mm allen key. My multi-tool (Topeak Alien) has the right size, but the entire tool is too bulky to fit between the handle bar and brake lever. Maelstrom is correct - as you look at the head of the screw, turn it clockwise for less brake lever travel.

Hopefully, this is the problem. If so, use a thread locking compound (such as Lock Tite, blue version) to secure the screw. Before applying the thread locking compound, turn the set screw beyond it's ideal position, place a drop of compound onto the thread with a toothpick, and adjust the screw back to it's ideal position. By doing this, you're ensuring the locking compound is placed in the mating threads. I did this "fix" about a month ago and all is fine.
Unbelievable. The first time I had this problem I went to the shop I bought the bike from. They said they needed to be rebleed. So I left it there. For FOUR days. The second time. I busted out my trusty 2mm Allen key. Fixed her up in less then a minute. Pathetic.

My one comment: HOLY CRAP that screw is loooooooooooooose. It was wiggling around and junk when I was tightening it. Now I just need some Loctite and some syn lube for my Axle and i'm ready to downhill on Thursday!!!!! Thanks to MudPie and to BigHit-Maniac for backing up MudPies comment. Also thanks Maelstrom he solved my problem in Post #6. But I was a little confused and it was dark outside so I couldn't see my bike (The flashlight hasn't been invented here yet)
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Old 08-03-04, 11:13 AM   #14
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The manual is on the hayes website.
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Old 08-03-04, 11:41 AM   #15
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Yup, I actually looked at that but was in a rush.
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Old 08-03-04, 02:21 PM   #16
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Alright, now I need some Loctite. I heard its cheap right? I'll go checl the screw now and if tightening it fixes it then i'll go get some loctite and fix it! Thanks guys. I'll post if it worked or not.
You can pick up the Loc Tite at any hardware or automotive store. A small bottle probably costs $3. You'll only need a drop. Remember the best way to apply it is to advance the screw beyond the desired position, place a drop onto a toothpick and place it on the screw. Then adjust the screw to the desired position, so the Loc Tite is drawn into the mating threads. Let it set and you'll never have to worry about it.

Caution, a previous poster warned about getting Loc Tite on the pivot pin on the brake lever, so the toothpick is good delivery tool.

There are many grades of Loc Tite. I believe I use the "medium strength, model #242". It's in a blue bottle. This particular one is a semi-permanent compound. You can move the screw in the future, but it'll take a little effort to move the screw. Perfect for our application.

Loc Tite also comes in "permanent" in a red bottle, but this is not necessary and undersireable if you need to disassemble or adjust in the future. I just looked in a catalog and there is a "low strength, model #222" in a purple bottle. I have no experience with the low strength version. (Probably more than you need to know).
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Old 08-03-04, 02:34 PM   #17
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I have the blue bottle. Works great. I loosened the screw and put some loctite on a toothpick and just dabbed it on the screw. (Hope I didn't get any into the pivot pin) Screwed it back in place and it doens't jiggle around anymore. I'm going to to check it in 30 minutes.
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Old 08-05-04, 08:56 PM   #18
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the play adjustment screw is probably backing out. Mine does that on the rear lever. .3mm allen I think.
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Old 08-05-04, 09:44 PM   #19
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.3mm is SMALL. It's a 2mm buddy. Sorry to sound like an ass. I had to readjust the lever pull after every run today because it was loosening. Like an idiot I left the Loctite at home.
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Old 08-05-04, 09:54 PM   #20
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Hey fox...I am pretty sure you can run that 8" on the rear. Xtreme guy does...
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Old 08-05-04, 09:59 PM   #21
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Thats what I thought. I e-mailed Haro today. No response as of now. I've seen an 8" in the rear though.
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Old 08-05-04, 10:01 PM   #22
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I have also seen lots of dual crowns...seems like a waste to dump a decent bike...
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Old 08-05-04, 10:04 PM   #23
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Really? Haro makes a DH bike. The DHR although its Haro and Intense. Have you seen them on the Extreme series? I just heard from a friend it voids warranty when you but a DC on it. He said the headset couldn't handle it. But if people do it????
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Old 08-05-04, 10:08 PM   #24
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Yep...I have seen them on the extreme series.

The DHR is signifigantly different in design and is pretty easy to see...check pinkbike I am sure I have seen pics on there too...it probably does void the warranty...but don't get to extreme with the HA (6.5 in travel dc at a short ride height) and it should be fine. I would rather ride a dc over a sc anyday on any bike for dh
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Old 08-05-04, 10:10 PM   #25
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Well what would you suggest? 7" is the smallest i've seen for a DC.
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