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Old 01-01-10, 04:23 PM   #1
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Truing/Tensioning wheels...

Sucks.

I went through and tensioned all the spokes on my wheel to what the manufacturer recommends, and got them all to the same tension (or really close to)... much to my dissapointment the wheel is completely off true......
any hints/ tips? lol
I got fed up with it for the night, I gotta be at work in.... 6 hours lol.
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Old 01-01-10, 04:46 PM   #2
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With the rear wheel, mainly worry about getting the tension correct on the drive side. The non-drive side's tension isn't so important, so you can compensate there to get it true.
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Old 01-01-10, 05:00 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by -_RebelRidin'_- View Post
Sucks.

I went through and tensioned all the spokes on my wheel to what the manufacturer recommends, and got them all to the same tension (or really close to)... much to my dissapointment the wheel is completely off true......
any hints/ tips? lol
I got fed up with it for the night, I gotta be at work in.... 6 hours lol.
Short and sweet: Don't try to true wheels with a spoke tensiometer. It's fine for ensuring that your spokes, collectively, are in the right ballpark on tension level, but to actually true, dish, and round your wheel, you'll need to use your own skills.
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Old 01-01-10, 06:11 PM   #4
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^ Agreed. An "ideal" build allows the spokes of the same side to vary by as much as 10%.
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Old 01-01-10, 07:36 PM   #5
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Like the others have said so far. You're applying the tool incorrectly. There are other variables to balance out and it's the general range of tension that tool is good at quantifying...
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Old 01-02-10, 12:55 AM   #6
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thats why i take it to the bikeshop

sry im too ******** to true wheels. I've tried before and failed miserably
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Old 01-02-10, 01:00 AM   #7
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thats why i take it to the bikeshop

sry im too ******** to true wheels. I've tried before and failed miserably
You know you have a friend who has built well over 100 wheels and worked for a bike shop before, right?
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Old 01-02-10, 06:10 AM   #8
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Thanks guys, lol.
I'll give it another go.
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Old 01-02-10, 09:21 AM   #9
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I went through and tensioned all the spokes on my wheel to what the manufacturer recommends,
Rear wheel? Front wheel? Disc hub? What kind of wheel?
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Old 01-02-10, 09:45 AM   #10
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Do you have an old wheel???? Practice young grasshopper......
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Old 01-02-10, 10:43 AM   #11
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I will take the slight wobbles out of a wheel easily. Turn the bike over and use the brake blocks or a marker taped to the Chainstay or fork to get the adjustment right. Works for me and I have even taken some bad wobbles out in this manner. But 3 retrues and the wheel is into the bike shop to let the wheel builder sort it out. Might aswell let the expert do a job easily than me struggle and still leave a problem in it.

But it is not only wobbles that occur. Gradually a wheel will lose spoke tension and that will make for "Loose" wheel that is more prone to damage. I ride an extreme bike that has to take a lot of weight and knocks and I have BombProof wheels on it. Hope Big un hubs and full downhill spec rims with 36 spokes. I also have two sets of wheels for this bike as I never know when a wheel will go "Off". Had this happen last year and put the spare set of wheels on it. The wheels coming off the bike did not have a wobble in it- but the ride felt floppy. Checked the spokes and the tension had gone out of them. Every spoke when twanged had a duller ping to it and some were even a thud. Took 18 months and about 3,000 miles for that to have happened since the last rebuild.
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Old 01-02-10, 10:46 AM   #12
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$20. at my LBS keeps me from language and teeth nashing. But I remember your previous post about finding a LBS! Hmm, there is wisdom in the previous posts to this thread. Now, I'm gonna try and mess up my rims again.
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Old 01-02-10, 05:12 PM   #13
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unfortunately for me, no old rims, those got trashed when we moved here.
LBS... cant even size a chain right, let alone true a wheel.

I'm going to undo everything I did last time and give it a go. I was just trying to get all the spokes to a relative tension, and then true it from there... but its like the whole wheel is pulled to one side, except in one spot....

Sun Rims, Rhyno Lites, with Shimano Deore disk hubs.
is the wheels I'm running.
Max tension is 110 kilograms, which on the tensionmeter 24 is 107, so i was shooting for that or close to, following the guidelines in my book and on parktool.com
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Old 01-02-10, 06:41 PM   #14
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If you can get all the front and drive side spokes between 22 and 24 while still being true within 1mm, you're doing well. For the NDS, try to make it so they are all at least 60% of the DS.
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Old 01-03-10, 01:11 PM   #15
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everythings almost exactly on 24 (just to get a start on things) and the wheel is completely screwed... when the tension was all jacked up, it had no side to side movement lol. now its all over the place

guess ill have to play with it more, and practice lol
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Old 01-03-10, 01:26 PM   #16
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From your posts, you haven't mentioned dish. Do you understand what this is and what it means in regard to spoke tension?

Honestly, it sounds like a trip to the LBS is in order before you ruin something.

Last edited by well biked; 01-03-10 at 01:52 PM.
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Old 01-03-10, 01:45 PM   #17
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lol yea. about LBS's....
hahaha...
I've fallen short on the LBS deal.

Dish is where the hub is in relation to the rim, centering i guess would be a simple term,

my understanding is you have to have the wheel laterally true first,
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Old 01-03-10, 02:02 PM   #18
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Its the wheel of the trek, I'll just practice and play with it, if I trash it, Ill buy a new wheel lol....
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Old 01-03-10, 05:05 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by stapfam View Post
I will take the slight wobbles out of a wheel easily. Turn the bike over and use the brake blocks or a marker taped to the Chainstay or fork to get the adjustment right. Works for me and I have even taken some bad wobbles out in this manner. But 3 retrues and the wheel is into the bike shop to let the wheel builder sort it out. Might aswell let the expert do a job easily than me struggle and still leave a problem in it.

But it is not only wobbles that occur. Gradually a wheel will lose spoke tension and that will make for "Loose" wheel that is more prone to damage. I ride an extreme bike that has to take a lot of weight and knocks and I have BombProof wheels on it. Hope Big un hubs and full downhill spec rims with 36 spokes. I also have two sets of wheels for this bike as I never know when a wheel will go "Off". Had this happen last year and put the spare set of wheels on it. The wheels coming off the bike did not have a wobble in it- but the ride felt floppy. Checked the spokes and the tension had gone out of them. Every spoke when twanged had a duller ping to it and some were even a thud. Took 18 months and about 3,000 miles for that to have happened since the last rebuild.
HEY Cheeto, you should re read this with full comprehension. JMO
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Old 01-03-10, 05:45 PM   #20
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lol yea. about LBS's....
hahaha...
I've fallen short on the LBS deal.

Dish is where the hub is in relation to the rim, centering i guess would be a simple term,

my understanding is you have to have the wheel laterally true first,
A wheel that is properly dished has the rim centered exactly between the ends of the axle. The best and easiest way to check this is with a dishing tool or 'dish stick." You can also check by simply flipping the wheel around in the truing stand.

As for your tensioning/truing, from the sound of it you should completely de-tension the wheel, having the spokes still laced, but no tension. Basically, you're going to have to make like a wheelbuilder who's just gotten the wheel laced, but hasn't brought the wheel up to tension.

Now, here's what you need to keep in mind as you begin to bring the spokes up to tension: trueness (lateral true), roundness (radial true), dish, and your target max tension for the driveside spokes (rear wheel)/brake rotor side (front wheel). When finished, as already mentioned in the thread, the spokes on the higher tension side of the wheel should be tensioned to within about 10% of each other.

The most important thing to remember is this: you need to work incrementally and in such a way that you're not ignoring any of the elements I listed above as you bring the spokes up to tension. It isn't rocket science, but you will NEVER achieve a good build if you don't monitor all the elements I mentioned as you bring the wheel up to tension. The spokes on the nondrive side (rear)/non-rotor side (front) will never reach your target max tension if you do this right.

Oh, and stop ending nearly every sentence with "lol." There's nothing funny about any of this. Wheel building is a grim, serious business.........

Read this, too. For your immediate purposes, skip down to Initial Spoke Adjustment and go from there. For your front wheel, think of the rotor side of the wheel when Sheldon says "freewheel side."
http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html

Last edited by well biked; 01-03-10 at 06:00 PM.
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Old 01-04-10, 01:08 AM   #21
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everythings almost exactly on 24 (just to get a start on things) and the wheel is completely screwed... when the tension was all jacked up, it had no side to side movement lol. now its all over the place

guess ill have to play with it more, and practice lol
So take the parts where the rim is too close to that side and loosen that spoke a 1/4 to 1/2 turn, then check to make sure the tension didn't drop below 22. Repeat this until the wheel is true and the spokes are still within the projected range.
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Old 01-04-10, 02:14 PM   #22
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I shall try for take three later.
Thanks for the info, I'm determined to get this right.
reason why I have to do this, is a while back my rear derailleur got pushed into my spokes in a very bumpy/ branchy downhill section. The derailleur ate 2 of my spokes, and trashed the wheel... I took it to my "wonderful" bikeshop and asked them to fix it. I even wrote exactly what I wanted done to it on the service tag... Well after they LOST my wheel, and had me go in the back and FIND it for THEM, all they did was lace the two missing spokes for me... I could still tighten them by hand.. and everything was screwed..
So now this brings me to where I'm at now, I initially started by de-tensioning everything and starting from scratch, I'll try that again. follow the stuff y'all gave me
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Old 01-04-10, 03:02 PM   #23
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I used to work for a shop, and I can tell you it's almost always best to leave the whole bike... and take anything off that will probably be removed during the work (seat bag, computer, etc.). Of course, I do all my repairs so I don't have to worry about it.
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Old 01-04-10, 03:44 PM   #24
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I gave them my whole Kona Dawg, and Wheel lol.
they kept my bike for 3.5 weeks, one bike of the same model of my bike was stolen, and the misplaced my wheel LOL.
I am trying to learn to be my own mechanic. I can do most other stuff, but I want to branch out into wheels, hubs and finicky stuff like that.
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Old 01-04-10, 06:38 PM   #25
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you started by using atleast a new rim right? using old rims will give you problems
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