XCSKIBUM

I am buying an entry level full suspension MTB for traversing the rocky creeks, ravines & rugged terrain on the local back country trails.

The bike does not have a lockout on either the front or rear. I will upgrade the factory issue forks W/lock out variety when they wear out, but just how is the rear suspension locked out?

I want to have my cake & eat it too. I need the suspension for the worst terrain, but a quick/easy lockout of the rear suspention would be nice too.

Is this feature incorporated into the rear shock or is it in the frame on a factory lockout upgrade?

Can a lock out link be used to make the top suspension rocker ridgid? Perhaps link the rear pivot point to the seat post to make the suspension ridgid or a pin lock in the pivot mechanism?

Here is a picture of the top rear suspension rocker.

C Law

yes


I am sure you could rig up just about anything you want and make it kind of work You'd be stressing the frame in ways it wasn't designed to be stressed, but its your bike and your the engineer, so go nuts.

dminor 

I would not worry about it much. True, the bike you are looking at does not have the most efficient suspension design (it is what's termed a "faux-bar" - - or, basically, a linkage single-pivot). But the amount a suspension's active movement robs you of pedalling efficiency for recreational trail riding is IMO way overstated. People worry too much about lockouts, defeating the purpose of having suspension in the first place.

I'd say either buy that bike knowing you will be giving up some climbing efficiency or look for a completely different bike.

XCSKIBUM

Already bought it. The e-mail confirmation was recieved, the debit card has been charged & it is due to ship out of NJ on Monday. I should have ot by Wednesday.

W/the way that suspension is laid out (similar to Dave Weagle's "dw Link") it would seem that it's funtional pivot point is akin to that of a 3 point hitch on a farm tractor. The true pivot apears to be located forward on a line that runs perpindicular to the steering head.

My somewhat intuitive mechanical mind tells me that this design wouldn't be as bad (as far as trasmitting rotational TQ from the pedal to the rear suspension) as designs that have a shock mounted inline W/the arc of the swing arm pivot.

Anyway, the way the shock preload is adjusted, it should be a very simple matter of twisting the adjuster ring up if I need stiffer suspention for hill climbing. There looks to be several inches of adjusment thread on the picture you posted. Some spacer rings under the spring would make for more stiffness adjustment to compensate for my larda$$ physique if needed. I could probably fabricate a spanner wrench if need be from some 1/4" aluminium sheet I have in the shop.

BTW: In response to your concern about plastic suspension pivot point bushings. I asked Kirt @ bike4families about that very point of concern. He told me that all of the suspension pivot points have bearings, (ball/roller?) not bushings (plastic or otherwise) so unless he was blowing smoke up my A$$, that point of concern shpuld not be a problem.

ed 

I've been riding decent full suspension bikes since about 1998 and the best lockout that I've found so far is right here.



I highly suggest you ride that Caddy as long as you possibly can, whilst saving your pennies for a whole bike. Just don't worry about it and have fun with it. In a couple of years, when you wear it out...start looking at bikes that are so efficient that they don't need a lockout. The Specialized Epic has the "Brain Fade" rear shock that senses the heck outta your terrain and basically feels like a hardtail until a bump comes along and breaks threshold. It's pretty amazing what good dampers do these days.

The Fox RP23 has an excellent damper. Platform damping is amazing, man. A Santacruz Blur with the RP23 pretty-much kills the need for a lockout.


I really, truly, sincerely, and whole-heartedly think that if you get to the point where efficiency is important...you won't want to be pushing an 8lb frame. You can enjoy the heck outta riding while saving for the dream bike later down the road.

Not being a bike snob...just speaking from experience.

XCSKIBUM

I appreciate your input.

Of course I know that this is not, as you put it, a "whole bike". It is what I can afford @ a time when I NEED to get something to continue my much needed fitness program. (all the snow is melting so XC skiing is done for @ present)

Even if I could afford better, I doubt that I have the knowledge to make an informed decision when purchasing a higher quality bike. I also will probably have trail mishaps due to inexperience that will take their toll on the bike so better to bang up a $400 entry level bike than a $1500 specimin.

I must admit that I was envious standing next to the high end bkes when I was in the LBS checking out tool kit items.

I "googled" the Fox RP23 & checked out Fox's website. The Fox RP23 is some great technology & would be on my list of features needed in my next MTB. In a year or so, I'll probably have the knowledge to make an inteigent choice when/if I move up. Actually, being the type that wants everything just so when spending the $$$$ to purchase quality products, when I do move up, building from a frame will probably be a consideration.

Thanks again for the great information. It will be filed in the "gray computer" for future referance.