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  1. #1
    Cantankerous Old Fart XCSKIBUM's Avatar
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    Full Suspension MTB for Under $400 (1st Impressions & 1st Ride Report)

    OK, we all know this is not going to be a top of the line bike, but for us that are just wanting to give it a try, an "entry level" bike in this price range might just be worth a look.

    1st, here are the published spec's.

    Available in 17, 19, and 21 inch frame sizes.

    -Frame:Custom 7005 Aluminum with coil spring
    -Fork: RST GILA 100mm travel
    -Chain: KMC Z 51
    -Crank set: SR Suntour 48, 38, 28
    -BB: Shimano Cartridge
    -Front Derailleur: Micro Shift Alloy
    -Rear Derailleur: Shimano Alivio
    -Shifters: Shimano Alivio 24 speed Dual Index Trigger Type
    -Brake levers: Shimano
    -Brakes: TEKTRO Mechanical Disc
    -Cassette: 13-34
    -Rims: 26 Vitesse V-Provile Alloy with Stainless Steel Spokes
    -Hubs: 32 HOLE Alloy Sealed Bearing
    -Tires: Kenda Nevegal 2.35 Wire Bead
    -Stem: Vitesse 31.8 Alloy 100mm 5 deg rise
    -Handlebar: Vitesse 31.8 Alloy Mountain Riser 10 deg bend 40mm rise
    -Headset: 1-1/8 High Stack Semi-Integrated
    -Saddle: Cadillac Custom Embossed
    -Seat post: Suspension 27.2
    -Pedals: VP Alloy Platform
    -Weight: 29.9 lbs (19)
    -Color: Root beer/Black

    I bought this bike for $389.99 shipped W/a free helmet & spare tube.

    Here's the box that was unloaded from the Fed-Ex truck this afternoon.



    After looking the box over & not seeing anything other than the usual minor handling damage, I popped the staples on the top & lifted the entire packaged bike (less pedals & seat) out of the carton. The bike was very well packed W/lots of protection. The front wheel & handle bars were zip tied to the frame W/lots of foam sheet & cardboard to separate the components.

    The pedals & seat were each wraped in their own separate packages & were in the bottom of the carton.




    I had to look very hard to find a few minor scuff marks on 1 side of the crank arm. Other than that inconsequencial blemish, the bike arrived in perfect condition.

    Even though I have never assembled a (new) bike, I was able to accomplish the chore W/O any assembly instructions. All I had to do was pump up the tires, attach the front wheel, handle bars & seat as well as tighten the stem clamp bolts on the steerer tube. a 6mm & 5mm hex key wrench & a standard 15mm combination wrench was all that were needed.

    Now I am new @ this modern bike stuff & as such I am not familiar W/all the technical stuff. I am an experienced "wrench" having hot-rodded small block chevies & la block Chryslers as well as Limey bikes & big twin hogs. I've even managed to set some 1/4 mile records in my 2006 Dodge Charger Daytona R/T.

    I might not know all the technical bike stuff (yet) but I know quality work. The welds on this bike's frame are top notch, & the paint finish is nearly flawless. All the rear suspension pivots points have (ball/roller?) bearings. The only adjustments I have had to make (other than the obvious handlebar, seat hieght, brake cable & spring prelaod) are pertaining to the Shimano Alivio shifter for the front derailer & the front derailer stops/cable.

    Here are some shots of the assembled bike.




    Now, about the rear suspension. I am a "Mega Clyde" weighing in just shy of 300# in my skivies. I was able to set the rear shock spring prelaod to 25% travel (3/8") W/nothing more than my bare hands on the shock preload adjuster ring. There is about 1/2" of adjustment threads left on the shock although I have about taken up all the "barehanded" adjustment.

    I got to ride it a bit in my hayfields & down the road just a ways. It seems to really scoot along on level or slight grade hard surfaces W/O any noticable pedal bob. The front forks are what they are, inexpensive entry level forks. I cranked down the spring preload all the way on the forks & they also seem to easily support my considerable weight.

    I do plan to upgrade to a Fox RP2 rear shock W/Pro-pedal soon. I am watching e-bay for a (new OE) take off & they seem to be going for about $150.

    I look to eventually upgrade the fork to something like a Rockshox Recon 351 U-turn W/crown mounted lock out. Again, I will look for a (new OE) take off.

    But anyway, I plan to get in some riding tomorrow & will report back.

    Oh, BTW, here's the real selling point. The Cadilac licensed head tube badge.




    See post # 2 for ride reports.
    Last edited by XCSKIBUM; 03-19-10 at 05:59 AM.

  2. #2
    Cantankerous Old Fart XCSKIBUM's Avatar
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    1st ride report 3-18-2010


    Yesterday morning I set out to get a few miles on my new MTB. Since the backcountry trails are still thawing out, there are still patches of snow & ice & the spots that are thawed are mud & waterlogged leaves/pine needles. Trail riding for an overweight, out of shape "Mega Clyde" under those horrendous conditions was not an option.

    I set out heading North on the county road that runs past my house. The shoulders are still soft & rutted so I stuck to the narrow band of pavement just outside of the white line. After about 1 1/2 miles on the blacktop, I tuned onto a dirt (packed sand) road & continued for just short of 1 mile. I then turned East on another county road & pedaled on a generally upward grade for another mile. I turned South onto the road that passes by my house, made a short climb up a fairly steep grade & sped down the now downward trending slope 1 1/2 miles back to the house

    All told I clocked 5.8 miles (measured by my truck's odometer) & pedaled non stop for about 35 minutes when I was interupted by my cell phone about 5 minutes from the house. 40 minutes total pedal time.

    I was very pleased W/the way the bike glided along on the hardtop & packed sand. I have the knobby tires inflated to the maximum pressure of 65 psi & they basicly rode on ther center row of knobs & offered surprizingly little resistance. The spring shock on the rear suspension had the preload cranked up so that my 300#ish bulk sagged the suspension the specified 25%. I also cranked the preload down all the way on the RST Gila fork.

    On the flats when I was not heading into the stiff breeze I was able to cruise along in 3-8, shifting down to 3-7 when fighting the wind or pulling slight grades. On some of the steeper climbs I shifted down as far as 2-4. I never detected any significant "suspension bob" although I didn't have to resort to stand up pedalling to any real extent. Once I had made the adjustments to the front derailer cable/stops & learned the proper technique, the 24 speed Shimano Alivio system shifted flawlessly.

    Now considering that I am not in very good shape & about 100# overweight, I think the bike performed admirably on the road where it is least well suited. A 200@ rider could have really scooted on this bike.

    Right before supper I headed South from the house for a short 2 mile pedal on a generally downward slope. I was wondering if I would be sorry leaving the worst for last W/the upgrade trend back to the house. Again I was surprised as I was able to climb a long grade heading back to the house "in the seat". I put in another 2 miles on the return leg for a total evening ride of 4 miles in 25 minutes. I only stopped very briefly @ the turn around point.

    So, I put in a total of 9.8 miles & 65 minutes in the saddle. I am very pleased W/this bike & would recommend it to anyone that is on a tight budget. The fact that it performed as well as it did under my considerable mass is a very good indication that this bike can carry large riders W/O suspension sag & pedal bobbing when traveling to the trails on the hardtop.

    My impressions:

    Strengths:

    1: Price: This bike originally was to retail in the $700 range, is priced @ $584.99 @ most online retailers/Sears & is offered @ $399.99 @ a few online retailers. I paid $389.99 (shipped) W/a free helmet & spare tube.
    2: Well thought out/engineered & robust aluminum frame
    3: Packaging; no shipping damage.
    4: Assembly; only the front wheel, seat & handlebars need to be attached. Very little adjustment was needed to work flawlessly.
    5: Appearance; the color scheme is vivid & online pictures do not do it justice.
    6: Workmanship; I can find no faults in the welds, finish or pre-assembly.
    7: Disc brakes on front & rear work great.
    8: Overall value & quality of components for a bike in this price range.

    Weaknesses:

    1: Over engineered frame structure; this bike weighs about 34# as weighed after a short ride left a bit of sand in the tire trreads. Still, this frame should hold up. there is a lifetime warranty on the frame.
    2: No lock outs on front or rear suspension; the addition of these features will be done eventually.
    3: RST Gila front fork; although the fork works fine, it is a bit rough/sticky on compression & a small amount of oil is getting by the top seals. Altogether, about what can be expected from a fork of this price. I would have gladly paid another $100-$150 to get a better mid range quality OE fork. The fork is not up to the quality (IMO) of the rest of the bike. This bike deserves a better front fork.
    4: The seat is a bit hard; this observation could have more to do W/the quality of "my seat" rather than the bike's seat.
    5: Cadillac co-branding; this feature tends to detract from the caliber of the bike.

    Current modifications.

    I made a trip to the LBS to pick up a seat bag, bottle cage/water bottle & a few other items. My Alien II multi tool & Blackburn Mammoth 2-stage mini-pump were awaiting me when I returned home.

    Here are the contents of the seat bag.

    Alien II 26 tool multi tool & pouch, Pedros tire levers, tube patch kit, spare tube, & chain repair link. All I need now is a good quality pencil tire gauge.


    The bag clips quite nicely to the OE seat.


    I was able to mount the Blackburn mini-pump & bottle cage to the nutserts that were installed in the frame @ the factory.


    And, here she is ready to roll.



    I'm headed out for a ride after posting this. I'm hoping to get about 1 1/2 hours in the saddle this morning.
    Last edited by XCSKIBUM; 03-19-10 at 08:06 AM.

  3. #3
    Fool O' crap sscyco's Avatar
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    Great first report. I'm anxiously waiting more reviews, pics and upgrade reports.

  4. #4
    ed
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    LOLOLOLOL

    LOVE THE GRILL!!! Classic PIMP headbadge.


    Hope she shreds for ya bum!

  5. #5
    "I'm OK!" dminor's Avatar
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    Enjoy it . . . and keep us posted.

  6. #6
    I have senior moments... bikinfool's Avatar
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    Does look better than I expected to see. Looking on google found this http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0070921x00003a so looks like you did well price-wise but don't know about those "21 inch wheels" Sears mentions let alone the "26 inch rims" that your specs mention (tires could be real hard to find if either were true). Have fun!
    suum quique
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  7. #7
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    I'd be perfectly comfortable putting that bike under either of my nephews, or a female-friendly version under my daughter. In fact, about seven years ago, i got one of similar quality for myself. Broke the frame in just over a year by simple commuting and MUP riding. Found out the likely cause was in the manufacturing, as there was a misalignment in the rear suss that torqued no the whole frame, eventually causing the break. Factory support? Yeah, right.

    Looks to me like it will serve its purpose; just don't expect a long life out of it.

  8. #8
    Cantankerous Old Fart XCSKIBUM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikinfool View Post
    Does look better than I expected to see. Looking on google found this http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0070921x00003a so looks like you did well price-wise but don't know about those "21 inch wheels" Sears mentions let alone the "26 inch rims" that your specs mention (tires could be real hard to find if either were true). Have fun!

    Tires/Rims are 26". The 21" reference is probably a misprint of the frame size.

    These are available in 17", 19" & 21" frame sizes.

    I was originaly going to get the bike @ Sears until I found out there are a few online retailers taking part in a new incentive program.

    I found the $399.99 pricing @ 3 diffferent sources, all W/a free helmet.

    http://www.bikes4families.com/cadill...bike-p-94.html has a "1stvisit" discount code for an additional $10 off. I ordered a spare tube & forgot to ask the price. The spare tuibe was in the box so I got that little bit of free gravy too.

    Kirt @ bikes4families was very helpful & gladly answered all of my questions.

  9. #9
    Too Much Crazy
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    1. You are going to upgrade the suspension right out of the box ? why didn't you just get a bike with better suspension?

    2. Putting better parts on this frame is a waste of time in my opinion.

  10. #10
    Cantankerous Old Fart XCSKIBUM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DX-MAN View Post
    I'd be perfectly comfortable putting that bike under either of my nephews, or a female-friendly version under my daughter. In fact, about seven years ago, i got one of similar quality for myself. Broke the frame in just over a year by simple commuting and MUP riding. Found out the likely cause was in the manufacturing, as there was a misalignment in the rear suss that torqued no the whole frame, eventually causing the break. Factory support? Yeah, right.

    Looks to me like it will serve its purpose; just don't expect a long life out of it.

    Having hot-rodded big twin stroker motorcycles to the point of frame breakage from TQ loading, I have a bit of intuitive knowledge about frame structure. I also spent several years in construction erecting commercial glazing systems. While working in architectural aluminum, I learned about wind (dynamic) loading in aluminum extrusions. Later on, I used that knowledge while working as an estimator for the worlds leading manufacturer of architectural aluminum, often working W/engineers on custom extrusion applications.

    This frame of this bike is "robust" to a fault, resulting in a somewhat heavy albeit tough frame structure. All of the frame tube joints, suspension mounts, etc. are well thought out as far as shear loading.

    That being said, I do not plan on doing any stunt riding, jumps, drops, etc. I just want to explore the logging roads, ski/snowmobile trails & abandoned town roads in my area.

    Besides, the frame has a lifetime warranty & even W/the minor suspension upgrades I might consider, I will keep the OEM suspension parts for that situation should it arrise.

    As soon as my additional tools arrive I plan to partially dismantle the rear suspension to inspect bearing points & I will check for any misalignment now that you have raised that possibility.

  11. #11
    Cantankerous Old Fart XCSKIBUM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by C Law View Post
    1. You are going to upgrade the suspension right out of the box ? why didn't you just get a bike with better suspension?

    2. Putting better parts on this frame is a waste of time in my opinion.
    I'm not planning on buying "new" parts. Either lightly used or "new OE" take offs. I will be spending a fraction of the cost of "new" parts. I can recoup some of the cost should I decide to change something when swapping parts around.

    I want to use this bike as a test bed to learn about the technology & I see no reason to spend $$$ for a top of the line bike for that purpose.

    Other than the weight disadvantage, that is not a priority to me anyway, I see nothing wrong W/this frame for my purposes.

    I have found that most "shops" be it bicycle or otherwise, are most interested in selling what they have in stock or what they can maximize their profits on. When/if I choose to "move up", I expect to have knowledge = to or exceeding that of the guy that is trying to sell me the bike that he has in his LBS.

  12. #12
    Too Much Crazy
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    How much for the headbadge?

    how much did it end up weighing? 30 pounds? (i know that isn't a concern to you due to your heft, but I was interested because of the claimed 29.9 lbs)

  13. #13
    Too Much Crazy
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    Quote Originally Posted by XCSKIBUM View Post
    I'm not planning on buying "new" parts. Either lightly used or "new OE" take offs. I will be spending a fraction of the cost of "new" parts. I can recoup some of the cost should I decide to change something when swapping parts around.

    I want to use this bike as a test bed to learn about the technology & I see no reason to spend $$$ for a top of the line bike for that purpose.

    Other than the weight disadvantage, that is not a priority to me anyway, I see nothing wrong W/this frame for my purposes.

    I have found that most "shops" be it bicycle or otherwise, are most interested in selling what they have in stock or what they can maximize their profits on. When/if I choose to "move up", I expect to have knowledge = to or exceeding that of the guy that is trying to sell me the bike that he has in his LBS.
    I don't mean spend 5k, I just meant 1k or so.

  14. #14
    Cantankerous Old Fart XCSKIBUM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by C Law View Post
    I don't mean spend 5k, I just meant 1k or so.
    Well, for starters, I don't have $1K to spend right off the bat & I want to get pedalling since XC skiing is done for until next winter. Right now, I am unemployed.

    Even W/the shock/fork upgrades I would have less than $800 in it & I can do that as the money comes available..

    Spending $5K on a bicycle would be ludicrous for my uses. (I could see eventually spending $1000- $1500 for a bike though)

    Again, I can bang this one up, play around W/components sell off the upgrades, get a hundred or so for the used bike & when/if I decide to upgrade to a $1K bike, I'll know a lot more than I do now & will be better able to make an informed choice.

    BTW: I put 5.8 miles on the bike this morning, some moderate upgrades on the way out. I am very pleased. 1 mile on a dirt road, the rest on pavement. (the shoulderrs are still soft & rutted) 40 minutes pedaling & the only time I stopped was to answer my cell phone about 35 minutes in.

    I can't wait for the ski/snomobile trails to dry out some. There's still snow & ice on parts of them & the rest is mud/leaves.

    And, the bike weighs 34# W/some sand in the tread.

  15. #15
    Senior Member m4ximusprim3's Avatar
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    I'm with you - I'd rather have a $400 bike now than a $1,000 bike in a year

    Bike's are like girlfriends - use it till it's worn out and then get a new one!
    2010 CAAD 9-4/ 2010 Masi Speciale Fixed / 2009 KHS Solo-One

  16. #16
    Cantankerous Old Fart XCSKIBUM's Avatar
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    Post #2 edited for 1st ride report.

  17. #17
    Pint-Sized Gnar Shredder Zephyr11's Avatar
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    Thanks for the update. Glad to see you're happy with it. I have to admit, I had some doubts when reading your initial impressions, but after reading your first ride report, it looks like it'll treat you well enough to get you hooked anyway.

    A couple things:
    1) I'm surprised you're pleased with the Tektro mechanical discs, especially with you being a bigger guy. I'm running Tektro mechs on my hardtail, and the only reason they're still on is that new brakes aren't in the budget right now. Maybe I got spoiled since my other bike is running Juicys, but they just don't feel like they have a lot of stopping power (or maybe I need to check my setup again). Good they're working out for you though.
    2) For a comfy saddle on a budget, check out WTB's saddles. The Rocket V seems to get great reviews, and I've used a Speed V and didn't think it was too bad either.
    3) You may want to consider picking up a hydration pack. It's nicer than the bottle + saddle bag since it can fit more gear and more water. I throw all the stuff that you put in the saddle bag in there, plus a wallet, light jacket, food, phone, and mini pump. Might sound like overkill, but it's better to be prepared. I feel like most riders on here will have at least one story where they got stuck somewhere...mine may have ended poorly if not for the jacket and phone (and insurance card, but I guess I could have gotten that later).
    4) How are those pedals? Your bars and pedals are your only connection to the bike, so you may as well make sure they're good. And while I can tolerate stock grips (usually), pedals are usually the first thing to get swapped off my bike. You don't necessarily have to go clipless, but there are nicer platforms that can be had for cheap too. If you don't mind ugly, Primo Tenderizers are probably one of the cheapest pedals out there that still works well. Wellgo MG-1's are a little less ugly and can be found pretty cheap too. If you do go clipless, everyone will tell you something different, but Shimano M520's are cheap and work just as well as their expensive pedals. If you're happy with the pedals, disregard everything I just said.
    5) In the first post you talk about upgrading the suspension. It'll make a HUGE difference...but my recommendation is to wait. That money can be better put towards a bike later on down the road, and buying complete will almost always get you a better deal than buying parts separately. Get yourself hooked on the sport with this bike. Then once you're into it and know exactly what parts of the sport you like and don't like, you can spend that money on a nicer bike. Maybe you'll figure out you like riding fast on less technical trails and want a 29er hardtail. Or maybe you'll find yourself hucking off whatever features you can find and wishing you had a FRHT. Or maybe you'll love the rear suspension but wish the bike was just a little bit nicer and want an entry level FS from a true bike company. Or hey, maybe you'll decide an awesome bike is worth eating ramen for a while and will end up with a non-entry level FS!
    6) Ditch the reflectors. And make the saddle's quick release clip so it's overlapping the collar. I don't think either of them make too much difference, but they're just aesthetic things that make your bike look cleaner.

  18. #18
    Cantankerous Old Fart XCSKIBUM's Avatar
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    My replies in RED below.

    Quote Originally Posted by Zephyr11 View Post
    Thanks for the update. Glad to see you're happy with it. I have to admit, I had some doubts when reading your initial impressions, but after reading your first ride report, it looks like it'll treat you well enough to get you hooked anyway.

    A couple things:
    1) I'm surprised you're pleased with the Tektro mechanical discs, especially with you being a bigger guy. I'm running Tektro mechs on my hardtail, and the only reason they're still on is that new brakes aren't in the budget right now. Maybe I got spoiled since my other bike is running Juicys, but they just don't feel like they have a lot of stopping power (or maybe I need to check my setup again). Good they're working out for you though.

    The brakes are working great for me, but after 300,000+ miles of hauling cattle in a 43' "possum belly" trailer, I don't rely on brakes much on any vehicle. I usually get 80,000+ miles out of front brake pads on a car/pick-up. Time may prove these to be less than adequate. I do notice a slight bit of noise form the front disc when really cranking along in 3-8 gear.

    2) For a comfy saddle on a budget, check out WTB's saddles. The Rocket V seems to get great reviews, and I've used a Speed V and didn't think it was too bad either.

    I already picked up a bargain on a high tech, comfy $50 saddle marked down to $29 from the LBS. I will post PIX tomorrow.

    3) You may want to consider picking up a hydration pack. It's nicer than the bottle + saddle bag since it can fit more gear and more water. I throw all the stuff that you put in the saddle bag in there, plus a wallet, light jacket, food, phone, and mini pump. Might sound like overkill, but it's better to be prepared. I feel like most riders on here will have at least one story where they got stuck somewhere...mine may have ended poorly if not for the jacket and phone (and insurance card, but I guess I could have gotten that later).

    I have a small "Outdoor Products" backpack that I use for XC skiing. It is hydration pack compatable & has a clip for the tube on the strap. I will P/U a bladder @ Wally World. I keep emergency gear in the pack, a space blanket, jacket, spare socks, small flashlight, compass, maps, matches in a waterproof cylinder, etc.

    When the trails dry up & I head into the back country the pack will be W/me. 1st, I have to shed some ### & get into better shape on the roads near home. I will just use the bottle on short trips close to home & I lke the seat bag for keeping a spare tube, patch kit, multi tool, tire levers & a repair link for quick repairs even on the short trips.

    4) How are those pedals? Your bars and pedals are your only connection to the bike, so you may as well make sure they're good. And while I can tolerate stock grips (usually), pedals are usually the first thing to get swapped off my bike. You don't necessarily have to go clipless, but there are nicer platforms that can be had for cheap too. If you don't mind ugly, Primo Tenderizers are probably one of the cheapest pedals out there that still works well. Wellgo MG-1's are a little less ugly and can be found pretty cheap too. If you do go clipless, everyone will tell you something different, but Shimano M520's are cheap and work just as well as their expensive pedals. If you're happy with the pedals, disregard everything I just said.

    The pedals stick to the soles of my shoes like glue & seem very robust. They have small truncated cone studs around the perimiter. I have no plans on changing them. They look very similar to the Primo Super Tenderizer pedal.

    I have already replaced the stock grips W/some ergonomicly shaped soft rubber grips. I'll also post PIX of them tomorrow.

    5) In the first post you talk about upgrading the suspension. It'll make a HUGE difference...but my recommendation is to wait. That money can be better put towards a bike later on down the road, and buying complete will almost always get you a better deal than buying parts separately. Get yourself hooked on the sport with this bike. Then once you're into it and know exactly what parts of the sport you like and don't like, you can spend that money on a nicer bike. Maybe you'll figure out you like riding fast on less technical trails and want a 29er hardtail. Or maybe you'll find yourself hucking off whatever features you can find and wishing you had a FRHT. Or maybe you'll love the rear suspension but wish the bike was just a little bit nicer and want an entry level FS from a true bike company. Or hey, maybe you'll decide an awesome bike is worth eating ramen for a while and will end up with a non-entry level FS!

    Absolutely no plans to ditch the rear suspension but I do plan to pick up an OE take off Fox RP2. They have been replaced by another model (not the 3 position Pro Pedal RP23, but an RP(x) model that is the same 2 position Pro Pedal as the RP2) so they are going fairly cheap.

    6) Ditch the reflectors. And make the saddle's quick release clip so it's overlapping the collar. I don't think either of them make too much difference, but they're just aesthetic things that make your bike look cleaner.

    Yeah I hear you on the reflectors. I was trying to figure out how to remove them W/O bending a spoke.
    BTW, I rode 10.4 miles today. I took a 15 minute break about 7 miles in. I spent 65 minutes pedaling. Up hill on the way out, fighting a stiff beaufort 4 to 5 headwind on the return leg. I had to take a few minutes breather on one upslope when I was fighting the wind. I got as low as 2-1 on one very steep hill, but I never "pushed" the bike, I pedaled all the way.
    Last edited by XCSKIBUM; 03-19-10 at 08:05 PM.

  19. #19
    worship satan. johnnytheboy's Avatar
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    i think that's a turner underneath that cadillac paint.
    http://www.pedalroom.com/members/johnnytheboy
    ^pedalroom.

  20. #20
    Cantankerous Old Fart XCSKIBUM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thehappyrobot View Post
    i think that's a turner underneath that cadillac paint.
    I don't really care what "name" is under that paint just as I did not care about the Cadillac co-branding other than the fact that (IMO) the Cadillac name detracts from the percieved quality.

    The majority of entry level & midrange bikes are made in China anyway so as long as the design/components are sound I do not see what diference the "name" makes. The frame carries a lifetime warranty.

    While I could see paying $1000-$1500 for a FS MTB @ some point, I just can't see EVER spending more than that. (in today's $$$)

    For now, I am very happy W/my purchase & after logging about 40 miles in the last 4 days I don't think I am going to change my mind.
    Cadillac (Kent) "MDS 2.4" W/Rockshox Recon 351 85mm-135mm U-turn fork W/Poplock & Fox RP23 rear shock : Specialized "Croostrail Sport" Hybrid

  21. #21
    Old School Rad mtnbiker66's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by XCSKIBUM View Post
    I don't really care what "name" is under that paint just as I did not care about the Cadillac co-branding other than the fact that (IMO) the Cadillac name detracts from the percieved quality.

    The majority of entry level & midrange bikes are made in China anyway so as long as the design/components are sound I do not see what diference the "name" makes. The frame carries a lifetime warranty.

    While I could see paying $1000-$1500 for a FS MTB @ some point, I just can't see EVER spending more than that. (in today's $$$)

    For now, I am very happy W/my purchase & after logging about 40 miles in the last 4 days I don't think I am going to change my mind.

    Whoooooosh.
    Like a circus monkey on a stolen Harley......

  22. #22
    Custom User never's Avatar
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    You've got that spring cranked way too much. You're not supposed to crank it down to get the sag you need, you're should get the proper rate spring to achieve the correct sag. The preload adjuster is just for fine tuning.

    Search for some online spring rate calculators to figure out what you need.

  23. #23
    Cantankerous Old Fart XCSKIBUM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by never View Post
    You've got that spring cranked way too much. You're not supposed to crank it down to get the sag you need, you're should get the proper rate spring to achieve the correct sag. The preload adjuster is just for fine tuning.

    Search for some online spring rate calculators to figure out what you need.
    Your right about the spring, I'm working on a more suitable solution.
    Cadillac (Kent) "MDS 2.4" W/Rockshox Recon 351 85mm-135mm U-turn fork W/Poplock & Fox RP23 rear shock : Specialized "Croostrail Sport" Hybrid

  24. #24
    Fool O' crap sscyco's Avatar
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    I love your posts - and your no BS way to a solution. Plus the way you are attacking your belly keep it up. I envy the gains you will see in the next few months if you keep your effort up.

  25. #25
    ed
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    Quote Originally Posted by XCSKIBUM View Post
    My replies in RED below.
    What...you think you're Jesus or something?

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