Converting SS to 1x9
#1
Banned.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 281
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Converting SS to 1x9
So I'm about 100lbs overweight and for some reason thought it would be a good idea to buy a SS, Gary Fisher Rig to be exact last year. Bike fits great rides great, until today. Went for the first ride of the season. I am 45lbs heavier than I was last year, and I kept sinking due to the trail being soggy in certain spots, but holy hell I am destroyed. I had to stop every couple hundred yards or after a big hill. I knew you had to pedal your ass off on a SS, trust me, I was well aware. Maybe it isn't the best way to start out though. Any thoughts, suggestions on cheap ways to convert to 1x9 or even fully geared perhaps? Bike fits great and handles great, just need some gearing unfortunately. Guess I should've been in decent shape before jumping on the bandwagon. Can't say I didn't try though!
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Carlsbad, CA
Posts: 381
Bikes: 2010 CAAD9-4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
one ride and we're throwing in the towel? At least give it a couple before we just give in!
As far as converting, things to buy: Shifter, RD, cassette, and cables. Easy!
As far as converting, things to buy: Shifter, RD, cassette, and cables. Easy!
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 622
Bikes: Specialized Hardrock
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Glad you saw the light. Imo there is no need for a single speed bike. having gears is like having your cake and eating it too.
Go ahead let the flaming begin.
Go ahead let the flaming begin.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 169
Bikes: 1997 Trek Multitrack 730, 2003 Gary Fisher Tassajara, 2003 KHS Flite 800, 2005 Santa Cruz Chameleon, 2008 Surly Long Haul Trucker, 2011 Santa Cruz Butcher
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Not too familiar with the Rig specs, but if it has vertical dropouts and a derailleur hanger then you should be able to change it to a 1x9 pretty easily. A cheaper solution you could try would be to either increase the size of the rear cog or switch to a smaller front chainring to something that is a little more manageable at this point. However, the increased climbing ability will come at the expense of the top end. i.e. you might find yourself spinning out more on the flats!
#5
Banned.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 281
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I already spin out due to being so big and picking up speed easily on flats (when I'm not sinking into the ground) and downhills. If I get the RD do I get a long, medium, or short cage? And what would be the cheapest wheel setup? I'm probably better off buying a whole new rear wheel instead of having the original relaced right?
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 169
Bikes: 1997 Trek Multitrack 730, 2003 Gary Fisher Tassajara, 2003 KHS Flite 800, 2005 Santa Cruz Chameleon, 2008 Surly Long Haul Trucker, 2011 Santa Cruz Butcher
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Don't quote me on this, but you should be okay with a short cage derailleur if it's a 1x9 setup. It depends on the quoted tooth capacity of the rear derailleur, which for a Shimano short cage, should be well above the range of a typical 11-32 or 11-34 rear cassette.
It would probably be easier to buy a new wheel. You can always keep the single-speed rear wheel for whenever you're ready or want to go back to a single cog. Always gotta keep the options open.
It would probably be easier to buy a new wheel. You can always keep the single-speed rear wheel for whenever you're ready or want to go back to a single cog. Always gotta keep the options open.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 622
Bikes: Specialized Hardrock
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
You mean before and after diet and exercising right?
Last edited by mystolenbikes; 03-22-10 at 08:53 AM.
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 386
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
why not go internally geared? if buying new, there isn't much difference in price. no derailleurs to adjust- ever. no flopping chain, no chain dropping issues. Id have done it but i had parts lying around.
you can get 8 or 9 gears (shimano alfine or sram i-9). never drop a chain! my dad has had his internally geared bike for over 2 years and even with a few wrecks (mostly his own fault or a slick road- no other parties involved) has never had to adjust the shifting. use a 1/8 inch chain and just clean and lube it every once in a while and it will last several years.
you can get 8 or 9 gears (shimano alfine or sram i-9). never drop a chain! my dad has had his internally geared bike for over 2 years and even with a few wrecks (mostly his own fault or a slick road- no other parties involved) has never had to adjust the shifting. use a 1/8 inch chain and just clean and lube it every once in a while and it will last several years.
#12
cycle-dog spot
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 1,538
Bikes: Look, Niner, Ellsworth, Norco, Litespeed
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
The best way to get out of this is going to be to sell the bike and buy a geared one.
You will get a bunch more replies telling you how to do this or that to a SS bike, but the fastest, easiest, cheapest route is to just start over.
It shouldn't be more than a 2 or 3 hundred dollar lesson.
-Z
You will get a bunch more replies telling you how to do this or that to a SS bike, but the fastest, easiest, cheapest route is to just start over.
It shouldn't be more than a 2 or 3 hundred dollar lesson.
-Z
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Nacogdoches, TX
Posts: 564
Bikes: cheapie Schwinn - ride what you got.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
^^ I theoretically would love this setup too. Sounds great, if a bit heavy in the back. This guy did it: https://www.muddymoles.org.uk/2008/12/alfine_review.html.
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 386
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
my dad's bike is a heavy cromoly commuter- tips the scales at 38 lbs with no suspension. by the time you add up the weight of a geared setup, its not THAT much heavier. yes, a hub is 1600g. but a cassette is 250+ grams for an XT (more for average), hubs are 250+ grams (deore is 450 grams!), rear D is another 250+. with just the standard stuff, you are looking at over 1000 grams on the rear wheel. add the front shifty bits, and then the shifters (another 250 grams+) and overall weight can be about even, assuming you are using mid level parts.
ignore this if you are going with high end parts- it IS lighter.
ignore this if you are going with high end parts- it IS lighter.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
steve-in-kville
Singlespeed & Fixed Gear
4
06-29-14 02:57 AM
MikeOCS
Long Distance Competition/Ultracycling, Randonneuring and Endurance Cycling
13
10-24-11 10:22 AM
Van Damme
Singlespeed & Fixed Gear
2
06-06-11 05:51 PM